Test Kits

[helen1207]

Hi, im having a few problems with a tank ive recently set up and the only test i have is for NO-2 Nitrite.The results are compared to a colour card (yellow - red). My results are yellow = <0.3 mg/l. Apparently lfs said this was ok. But i need to know what other test kits i should have? The tank is only a 20 litre and on advice from lfs i did a fish cycle...Not a good idea as my fish are ill and after 2 lots of medication they are still ill!
I want to ask advice on what to do with my fish but i need to say what the `tests` show up. Thanks in advance, Helen.

 

[PDSimon]

ammonia
pH/pH high
nitrate

You get all those bottles in the API Test kit (have a look on ebay/amazon)
same goes for the salifert test kit

Your fish are ill because nitrite is toxic to them, it will effect there breathing, immune system and may well kill the remaining fish.

I'd perform enough waterchanges to get your nitrites down to 0.
Ammonia is toxic too. Nitrates are only toxic in large quantities so you can take them out easily with water changes.

I advise you to read the cycling help on the beginners section at the top of this forum

 

[helen1207]

Thanks for the reply, the thing is i dont get the nitrite test i have! The water turns yellow after i add the 2 different bottles (i follow the instructions)..the colour chart starts at yellow <0.3 mg/l which is what i have so how do i know when it is lower if i do water changes?
My test kit tetratest will only give yellow as the lowest!

 

[PDSimon]

I'd get a new test to be honest with you. The whole reason of test kits is so you can be certain you have 0ppm!

Make sure you get a liquid test kit like this one

My link

I'm sure you can get cheaper than that btw.

 

[Twinklecaz]

You should get the API. It takes a while to get used to looking at the colours but once you've seen what 0 Ammonia and Nitrite look like you don't mistake it again. The Ammonia is a light clear yellow and the Ntrite is a light clear blue. You'll prob have instances when it's nearly 0 that you think it might be but like I said, once you've seen it you'll know the difference. For those 2 I don't even need to use my test cards anymore, I just hold it up to the light, go "yep great" and chuck it down the sink

 

[helen1207]

Ok so ive just been out and spent a fortune on a new test kit but i think it was worth it!! The results are as follows P.H 6.0
AMMONIA 4.0ppm!!!!!!!!!
NITRITE 0ppm
NITRATE 0ppm
I also did GH and KH but really not sure these readings are correct as no colour chart to compare them to but here they are GH 89.5ppm ??
KH 143.2ppm ??
Im going to put up a new post as i need to explain the medication etc ive used so thanks for your help on getting the RIGHT test kits! Helen.

 

[Assaye]

Ok so ive just been out and spent a fortune on a new test kit but i think it was worth it!! The results are as follows P.H 6.0
AMMONIA 4.0ppm!!!!!!!!!
NITRITE 0ppm
NITRATE 0ppm
I also did GH and KH but really not sure these readings are correct as no colour chart to compare them to but here they are GH 89.5ppm ??
KH 143.2ppm ??
Im going to put up a new post as i need to explain the medication etc ive used so thanks for your help on getting the RIGHT test kits! Helen.

Scary stuff! Crack on with some large water changes. Just to get that down to a safe level I think you'll need to do two 75% water changes with about an hour between them to let the new water mix in and dilute the ammonia.

Remind me what stock you have in the tank again?

 

[helen1207]

i only have 5 neon tetras in there at the moment! Ive just posted a new question under 'problems with tank, ill fish' so if you have time to read it, it says about the meds ive used as well...its a bit long winded i think!

 

[OldMan47]

To be honest, you need to immediately do a 90% or more water change to get that ammonia under control. At 4 ppm, the only thing wrong with your fish is probably simple water chemistry. I would be surprised if the fish do not start acting much healthier while you are still adding in the new dechlorinated water. If you still measure above 0.25 pm of ammonia, do another 50% water change right on the heals of the previous one.

Medications are a nice way for pet shops to make a profit from fish keepers, but almost all illnesses in a tank can be quickly corrected by either a water change or a salt dose in concentrations high enough to endanger the fish. Save the salt treatment for those things where it is known to help. It is not a tonic, it is a treatment and should only be used when and where necessary. Although I have 25 tanks in use, I have only used salt once in the last 7 years and have never used any other medication. If you take care of your water, the fish will almost take care of themselves.

 

[helen1207]

Thanks 'old man 47', I've been doing 80-85% water changes every day since Monday and the tests are all 0ppm at the moment. I'm checking everyday now to make sure it stays at 0ppm. The fish are more active but they still have the 'fungus/bacteria' thing on them. The advice i'm receiveing on here is priceless and me and my fish greatly appreciate people taking time to reply.
There is no medication in the tank now as the water changes will remove it all so no point in putting it back in. I'm told to concentrate on keeping the water in tip top condition as this will benefit the fish more! So I'm more than happy to keep up with the water changes and keep testing. Thanks for replying, all advice is welcome!:0)