Siesta Lightning Time

[migdem]

Anyone have heard of lightning the aquarium with plants in Siesta mode? I read an article on this guy that he switch on the lights at 9am off at 1pm on again at 5pm and off at 10pm this way he says that algae hates it. Did anyone tried it yet?

Also I have a 60 litre with 15W T8 Lightning on for 10 hours per day. (if it will be right I will change to 9am-1pm and 5pm-10pm) I have low light plants such as moss, crypts and anubias. I am going to add co2 gas and was thinking of 1 bubble per 5 seconds. As nutrients if i get the Seachem Flourish Tabs would it be enough or should I also give weekly Seachem Flourish? Also they have Flourish Iron, Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorus. Should I give any of these? As gravel i have Seachem Black Sand.

 

[Dave Spencer]

Anyone have heard of lightning the aquarium with plants in Siesta mode? I read an article on this guy that he switch on the lights at 9am off at 1pm on again at 5pm and off at 10pm this way he says that algae hates it. Did anyone tried it yet?

Have a read of this:

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/226625-split-lighting-algae/

Ignore comment #4, I have since become a tad more enlightened.

Dave.

 

[SuperColey1]

Dave's got it in one there. siesta is nothing to do with algae directly. Those who think that idea are following chinese whispers and old myths.

Nor is it anything to do with emulating tropical thunderstorms as the Dennerle site suggests.

There reason for siesta is when using yeast fermentation CO2. Because it doesn't produce a huge amount and is pretty unstable the siesta just gives time for the CO2 to accumulate for the second stage of the photoperiod.

Of course if this works then the plants grow well and the seide effect is that the plants growing well gives you less algae. One of those false correlations saying algae doesn't like a siesta.

Algae and plants like the same things in general. If algae doesn't like the siesta then plants won't either

Not too sure why Dave says ignore post 4. I am sure he can help enlighten me too (Johhny 5 need more stata etc)

In my mind it is more a case of supplying the highlight that you want because you want a fast growth but not having to have blinding light all day long.

As per DAve on the siesta. You have pressurised CO2 and therefore a siesta is pointless.

Further to this we know nowadays that the siesta 'shouldn't' work at all. Why? Because we are pretty sure these days that the plants will take most of their CO2 need in the early hours of the photoperiod. Therefore there should be no need to 'accumulate' during a siesta. I think at the end of the day it is one of those things that some people want to believe and so when they do it and see a change they assume that it works. I think in most cases they may also be doing something else differently at the same time

Most peopl when they are trying to sort something out within a tank change several things. There aren't many that will just alter 1 thing and then wait for a result before trying something else

AC

 

[migdem]

Ok thanks, so what about 1 bubble per 5 or 4 seconds and with Seachem flourish tablets and flourish liquid will I promote algae with slow growing plants or i would be fine?

 

[SuperColey1]

when you are talking bubbles per second are you talking about pressurised cylinder?

If so yes you need to dose the water column and I wouldn't bother with the Seachem stuuf as you will need several bottles. Cheaper to buy the dry salts, make your own solutions and those powders will last a year or 2 at minimum compared to a few months with the bottled premixes.

1 WPG with pressurised ahould keep the algae off as long as there are enough plants. Shouldn't really matter if they are 'slow growing' as with pressurised CO2 they are going to use the light better and they aren't going to be so slow growing. 75% or so substrate coverage (looking from above the tank) and you should be fine.

AC

 

[migdem]

when you are talking bubbles per second are you talking about pressurised cylinder?

If so yes you need to dose the water column and I wouldn't bother with the Seachem stuuf as you will need several bottles. Cheaper to buy the dry salts, make your own solutions and those powders will last a year or 2 at minimum compared to a few months with the bottled premixes.

1 WPG with pressurised ahould keep the algae off as long as there are enough plants. Shouldn't really matter if they are 'slow growing' as with pressurised CO2 they are going to use the light better and they aren't going to be so slow growing. 75% or so substrate coverage (looking from above the tank) and you should be fine.

AC

Yes I have a pressurized system and would like to use it. Since it is a low light setup with crypts, anubias and mosses i thought to give 4-5 bubble per second.

I though to buy the ready mix because this aquarium is a 60 litre tank (relatively small). Below is my tank. What do you think?

 

[ian]

you'd be better removing that Juwel venturi. The o2 thats coming from that will soon drive the much needed c02.

tank looks nice BTW, i would move the moss over to the Juwel filter, making it look more covered in.

 

[migdem]

Will do

But believe me it does not put too much o2 but will stick to your opinion and remove the venturi.

The problem is that the driftwood is a bit big to fit in that corner.

 

[SuperColey1]

Will do

But believe me it does not put too much o2 but will stick to your opinion and remove the venturi.

The problem is that the driftwood is a bit big to fit in that corner.

O2 doesn't drive off CO2. The 2 are seperate and live side by side. More of one does not mean less of the other.

Most in planted these days like to bring O into the system. I like to have some of my Lily above the water (with or without CO2) to get the surface working at bringing O in. I find that water clarity improves also.

I personally would keep the venturi in place and if necessary (surface turbulence) put a little more CO2 in.

4-5 bps sounds pretty hefty to me on your light. We are talking pressurised as in gas cylinder and regulator aren't we.

If so as a guide on my 125Ltr with about the same light, maybe a little more I was putting 2-3 bps in WITH plenty of surface turbulence.

AC

 

[migdem]

No not 4-5 bps but 1 bubble per 5 seconds. I made a mistake in the post, sorry about that. Yes it is a presurized system. Also I will be having a glass ceramic reactor. Is this ok since the tank is small i cannot make a bigger reactor.


Right now I removed the venturi. Also before it was not giving me air bubbles do not know why but it seems that it was not working as it should have.

 

[SuperColey1]

I prefer the ceramic glass diffusers myself. I prefer 'misting' to 100% dissolved.

There are mixed views but many people tend to believe that mist is better as bubbles can break through the 'leaf barrier' easier than 100% in solution can so you have my 100% backing on that

With the venturi did you not have an airline/pump fitted into it? I thought venturis were a pipe that had an offshot that you connect the sirline to? I once put CO2 into a venturi on a powerhead to get it to blow around the tank Later I fed it in through the bottom so the impellor could 'mash up' the bubbles.

Wasn't pretty of course which is why I eventually went back to the glass ceramic. Was just an experiment

AC

 

[migdem]

hehe.

No i did not connect it to an airpump. In the package it never said that you should connect it to an airpump

about the dosage is 1 bubble per 5 seconds fine?

 

[SuperColey1]

GET a drop checker and some 4dKH plus bromo blue (Ph test kit)

Start at your 12bpm and then after 2 hours check the colour of the DC. IF it is light green then keep watching if it is dark green turn the CO2 up a little. If it is blue turn it up a bit more.

Keep adjusting every 2 hours until you reach light green. Once light green monitor it to make sure it doesn't continue into yellow.

All through this process watch your fish. They will give you live updates, the DC will give you 2 hours+ time delayed updates.

If at any time the fish move up to the top then the CO2 is too high.

AC

 

[migdem]

But if i turn CO2 higher i have to supply more light? Should i dose more ferts?

I was thinking of 1 bubble per 4-5 seconds because light could stay low and ferts to once a week normal dosage.

 

[Dave Spencer]

But if i turn CO2 higher i have to supply more light?

Light levels are not driven by CO2 levels. Adding more CO2 will improve plant growth to a certain extent, but only to an amount determined by your current light levels. Adding more CO2 beyond this limitation simply becomes a waste of CO2. Adding more light, howvever, may make it necessary to add more CO2, which leads to your next question.

Should i dose more ferts?

Light drives CO2 demand, which drives fert demand. There is a possibility you may need to add ferts, but it is not certain in a low light tank.

In summary, light is the big driver in your tank, with everything else downstream of it. Increasing CO2 does not mean you have to increase lighting, but ferts are downstream of CO2, so you may need to add more of these. Your judgement will be required in this respect.

I am aware that you have been given advice different to this elsewhere on the internet, but it is from a forum stuck in the 70s, and any questioning of the advice given there results in a ban.

Dave.