Seachem Flourish Vs Tropica Plant Nutrition

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Seachem Flourish vs Tropica Plant Nutrition

  • Seachem Flourish

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • Tropica Plant Nutrition

    Votes: 14 82.4%

  • Total voters
    17
Well, you're asking to compare something that only doses trace with something that doses Macros as well. For that reason, I pick TPN+

Llj. You'll hate me for being very pedantic but Flourish does contain N and P too. Just at much much lower levels than TPN+ :)

Honestly, I'm not surprised, AC... You seem to enjoy it... :lol:

Tropica is hard to get outside of Europe. Seachem is pretty expensive in Europe and much cheaper in the US.

eBay. It's where I get my TPN+ eBay isn't hard.
 
So what do you choose if you have the aquarium heavy planted but also fully stocked with fish and live in Europe.

Should you use TPN+ or TPN or Seachem Flourish?
 
So what do you choose if you have the aquarium heavy planted but also fully stocked with fish and live in Europe.

Few more factors to consider. Does this heavily planted, well stocked tank have lots of light and any carbon addition?
 
Ok so 450 litres, 216W on for 10 hours, with pressurised CO2 and ph controller set to 6.8.
 
The you should be using dry salts. Man thats a lot of light there for a big tank.

Llj. ebay is always the people's friend :) Is it cheaper than Flourish though?

AC
 
The you should be using dry salts. Man thats a lot of light there for a big tank.

Llj. ebay is always the people's friend :) Is it cheaper than Flourish though?

AC

It is about the same because I don't have to buy anything else. With Seachem, I've got to buy N & P too... I don't do dry salts, my high tech tanks are too small to bother.

Agree, in the OP's case, go with dry salts.

G'night everyone. have to be up at 4am tomorrow... :crazy:
 
cannot really find it. Can you post the link?

thanks
 
PARC - Planted Aquariums Resource Centre.

Click for PARC

Scroll down to fertilisation and there ar emany options there. Read through them all, choose a method that suits you and then go buy the salts :)

AC
 
What if I buy PMDD Pre-Mix that includes
Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Plantex CSM+B.
http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/index.asp?Option1=inven&EditU=2&Regit=11&ReturnOption1=cats&ReturnEdit=2&Returnitemname=&ReturnShowItemStart=

Also how much should i dose in 450 litre tank and how much often?

Also do you think it is more cheaper this way and still effective?
 
That doesn't have P in it :sad:

It really is easier just to do your own. Then you can try EI, if you don't like it, try PMDD+PO4, If you need to tweak it you can remove a little of this and add a little of that etc.

Whilst at the mo you will think that knwoing what to tweak is beyond you, I can assure you that over a short space of time you will start to see differences in plants, research what the difference means and then alter your mix accordingly :)

EI is different as it just says OK heres loads more than you plants are going to use. Nothing runs defficient and then each week a 50% water change 'resets' the tank and away we go again. 225ltrs is a lot to change though.

Take a read through these, you may see one that suits you better than another, they also tell you what you need, what to mix and how much to dose for X size tank :) :

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/dosing-methods.htm

AC
 
Ok so 450 litres, 216W on for 10 hours, with pressurised CO2 and ph controller set to 6.8.

Migdem, I can not help but notice that you are asking for a lot of trouble with this set up. You have a lot of light for a tank that size, and will need to fully commit to a proper dosing schedule. My advice is to read up on the EI dosing method. It is infinitely easier to execute than people realise, and requires no testing. It will also be the cheapest option for dosing available to you. If you can make a cup of coffee, you can mix your own ferts. If you are in the US, as I suspect, then you can get all you need from Dr Foster (potassium nitrate, (mono)potassium phosphate, trace).

If you read up on why we use a 4dKH solution in a drop checker to achieve the right levels of CO2, you will realise why a pH controller will leave your tank low on CO2 levels. Either ditch the pH controller in favour of the drop checker, or you will need to aim for a much lower pH using the controller.

I have noticed the continuing advice you have been getting elsewhere on the internet, some of which is laughable and from the Dark Ages of the hobby. Still, that Byron chap seems to be talking more sense lately; ever since he was made aware of Tom Barr, it would appear.

PS Takashi Amano`s tanks are not high light like so many of us, myself included, originally thought. You can tell Byron that.

Dave.
 

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