Preliminary planted tank plan

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modernhamlet

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I've been reading and thinking and planning and reading some more for the last couple of months... pretty much absorbing all of the planted tank material available here and elsewhere on the net. With a recent move finally finished, I'm just about ready to dive into the planted tank pool. Even the space is picked out in the dining room, between a set of bookshelves.

So I'm seeking criticism, advice and suggestions on my plan, which you can find below. I'm not filthy rich, so DIY projects with a high benefit/effort ratio and inexpensive alternatives would be great, but I'm going to do this right the first time and it's going to look classy. Any and all products, methods, and procedures to look for OR avoid would be appreciated.

Without further adeiu, here's the plan. Thanks in advance for your comments on any or all of my ideas.

40 gallon breeder (36”x18”x16”)

Lighting:
36” 4x39W T5 light fixture on raised supports

Filtration:
Filstar XP2 canister filter

Heater:
Hydor inline 200w heater

CO2:
Pressurized CO2 System into filter line

Substrate:
Peat/Vermiculite/fine dark gravel substrate

Ferts:
Estimative Index method using Self mixed KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4 and Seachem Flourish (or equivalent microfert product)

Plants:
Glossostigma elatinoides
Echinodorus tenellus
Blyxa japonica
Lysimachia nummularia
Microsorum pteropus
Didiplis diandra

Fish:
3 Apistogramma (undecided species)
10 Hemigrammus bleheri
6 Inpaichthys kerri
5 Otocinclus vittatus

Hardscape:
Driftwood and/or rocks

Aquascape:
Nature aquarium influenced triangular layout inspired by the seacoast of the Pacific Northwest US.
 
It is a joy to see someone that has obviously planned their set-up well and done the necessary research to give the best possible chances of success.

My biggest advice would be to plant initially with fast growing stem plants before planting your planned choice. Most of the species you have chosen are, as you probably know, quite slow growers - even with your lighting.

Another tip would be to set up your CO2 and get it running at a stable 30ppm before commencing your lighting.

You will already know all this if you have read my new algae article though. The "Getting it right from the start" section is very relevant for you.

You have every chance of great success with your plans - I wish you the best of luck with it and please keep us posted.
 
The Plan sounds very good i cant really pick any faults in it.

I would just make sure the lights can work independently, you might not want 3.9 WPG at all times, and just be aware its a lot of light, your arms will be wet quite often with pruneing and you will really have to keep on top of the fert routine or things can quickly go south with a tank with so much light, you may want to consider staggering the light throughout the day rather than running 3.9 WPG for the full 10-12 hours per day.

Also the heater may be the only thing you can run inline on the cannister filter add anything else (UV etc) and it may significiently reduce the flow.

But very best of luck, add enough plants from the beginning and you may not have to cycle the tank at all, but add the fish slowly over several weeks and you should have no problems and as gf said add lots of fast growing stem plants in the beginning to avoid any major algae problems.

Look foreward to seeing the pics.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll definitely do my best to follow it.

I will definitely plant a few bunches of hygrophila polysperma at first, while everything else gets established. I had a lot of luck with it in a very low light tank a couple of years ago.

About the canister, I was going to go with the XP2 partially because it's got a lot of bang for the buck, but also because I thought it had enough umph to filter a 40g planted tank, even with inline attachments. Do you think inline heating and CO2 input would slow the flow down too much? Should I go with a different filter? I'm definitely hoping to reduce the amount of "stuff" in the tank proper.

Thanks again! :thumbs:
 
You could also look into using riccia as a floating sponge to discourage algae growth if you dont want to use/plant temporary quick growing plant species :)

im using it now (riccia floating in a corner) in my nano tank and it stopped the algae growth in my nano tank.
 
Your filter should be fine with the heater and CO2 - neither of which should restrict flow excessively IMO. Many recommend a complete water volume turnover rate of 1 to 2 two times per hour in a planted tank. I've read the flow rate on the XP2 with everything installed is still 160 US gallons per hour so you will be fine, a submerged spray bar will ensure the flow isn't too aggressive

Good idea on the H polysperma - I used polysperma and difformis (wisteria) after a substrate change and complete re-plant to establish a balance quickly and it worked a treat.
 

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