Pleco Habitat

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Nik_boyd

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I'm getting a new Trigon 350 tank, and would like to try live planting, which I haven't done before. neither have I kept tropical fish before, only coldwater. I want to design a habitat around L200 plecs and bronze cories.

Can people please suggest best plants, subtrate and other decor for the tank.

thanks,

Nik.

ps. if you need any more details to comment, please ask.
 
i would say sand substrate, with lots of cover for the cories as they don't enjoy heavy light too much. the pleco will want a place to hide during the day too.

as for plants, pretty much everything would work with these fish, keep in the mind the pleco may unroot plants though...
 
I've been warned that the planned 4* L200's could easily rip plants up when adult (7" ish) but thats a risk I'm willing to take I think. how do you grow plants in sand, or do you add a different substrate underneath.

Thanks,

Nik
 
do you want to do a biotope or anything like that, those are the best. if you wanted a planted biotope w/ cories, do amazon. as for the plant/sand idea. get a large grain sand, trust me from experience. add flourite underneath the sand for nourishment. about a 1" layer of flourite w/ a 1" layer of sand on top of it. plants, can differ a lot. do you want to have any certain looking plants (swords, anacharis???) what other fish would you keep in it (discus hint hint)? as for the plecos, get smaller ones they will be ok in a planted tank, but i don't like plecos in a planted tank. i prefer snails. also if you want a really lush tank you need bright lighting, and rich water. light about 3 watts per gallon, and water high in iron, magneseum, and NO SALT.
 
PLANT CARE

Live aquarium plants are a worthwhile addition to the fish tank. In a well planted tank, the fish have better colors, live a more natural life, and appear more comfortable than in an unplanted tank. Though they need more care than plastic replicas, live plants can be kept with few problems as long as there is plenty of light and no plant-eating or plant-destroying fish.

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Photosynthesis
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Photosynthesis is the process by which plants convert carbon dioxide gas and water are converted with the help of light energy into glucose (energy) and oxygen gas. This process can be expressed in the equation:

6C2O + 6H2O + sunlight => C6H12O6 + 6O2

Thus in an aquarium during the day, plants use the carbon dioxide, produced by fish, and water to produce oxygen and energy. The oxygen is used by fish for respiration. At night, there is no sunlight or artificial for the plants to carry out photosynthesis, so the plants must rely on respiration to make energy. So, plants take in oxygen and produce carbon dioxide. Because of nighttime plant respiration, the carbon dioxide level in an aquarium rises at night, but once the light is turned on, the carbon dioxide levels drop due to plant photosynthesis.

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Substrate
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Follow the suggestions under "Gravel" in the aquarium section for gravel set-up. In most cases, plants do best in fine gravel with some sort of base fertilizer. Base fertilizer is not required, but is recommended. Iron rich clay fertilizers like laterite, and other fertilizers manufactured for aquatic plants are suitable.

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Lighting
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One of the most important ingredients to a successful plant aquarium is strong lighting. As a general rule, 2-3 watts per gallon is sufficient for a well-planted aquarium. Often light is measured on a scale of lux. The following table gives the light requirements in terms of lux for plants growing at different water levels:

Light Type Lux Watt/G Examples
subdued 100-500 1-2 Cryptocoryne, Vesicularia dubyana
moderate 500-1000 2-2.5 Sagittaria, Echinodorus
bright 1000-1500 2.5-3 Aponogeton, Bacopa
very bright 1500+ 3+ Cabomba, Lemma, Salvinia


Fluorescent bulbs have proven to be the most practical bulb for lighting planted tanks. However, in tanks deeper than 20" (50 cm), most fluorescent bulbs are not strong enough to illuminate the tank sufficiently, so mercury vapor lamps can be used. For mercury vapor lamps, use about 6.25 watts per inch (2.5 cm) of tank length.

Be aware that the intensity of fluorescent tubes decreases subtly, with time. Thus one tube should be replaced every six months.

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Water
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Most aquarium plants can be kept in water with a hardness from 4-12 dH, and a pH from 6.5-7.2. For specific species, see the individual descriptions. The water should be kept as clean and clear as possible because free debris can settle on plant leaves or cloud the water, interfering with light intensity. Very few aquatic plant species can survive in brackish water.

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Nutrients
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Plants require macro- and micro nutrients to grow. Macro nutrients are substances that are required in relatively large amounts such as nitrates, phosphates, and sulfates. These nutrients usually occur naturally in the aquarium from tap water and fish. When these levels rise to excessive amounts, an "algae bloom" can result. Nitrate levels rise do to their production by fish. Thus these macro nutrients need not be added to the aquarium.

Micro nutrients are elements that are required in trace amounts. Micro nutrients important to plants include copper, iron, manganese, boron, zinc, and calcium. These elements are needed in only the smallest amounts, and excess can prove harmful.

The following table reviews some of the major nutrients important to aquatic plant growth. (The macro nutrients are marked with an asterisk*)

Nutrient - Function

Carbon* - the basic block of carbohydrates, which plants use for energy
Oxygen* - important in plant respiration at night
Hydrogen - (in the form of water) is needed for nutrient transport, among other functions
Nitrogen* - (usually in the form of ammonia or nitrate) necessary for protein synthesis
Phosphorous* - promotes flower development
Sulfur* - used in protein synthesis
Iron - used in chloroplast formation (chloroplasts are the structure in which photosynthesis occurs.

When there is a deficiency of nutrients, the plants suffer. If the leaves yellow faster than usual, there could be a deficiency of nitrogen or sulfur. If the leaves yellow starting at the tips or the leafs seem especially brittle, an iron deficiency should be suspect. Evidence of an over fertilization of iron or a manganese, phosphorous, or potassium deficiency is yellow spots on the leaves.

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Fertilization
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Because macro nutrients are usually available naturally in tanks, an all-around plant fertilizer cannot be recommended for aquarium plants. Instead use preparations of "trace elements" which are specially prepared for aquatic plants and are widely available in pet stores. Never overdose with a fertilizer because plants and fish can be damaged. Do not purchase a fertilizer than includes phosphate or nitrate, because horrible algae problems may arise. Fertilizers are commonly available in liquid and pelleted forms.

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Carbon dioxide
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Carbon dioxide is used by plants for photosynthesis and is a fundamental compound to the success of a planted aquarium. Carbon dioxide is present in aquariums as a byproduct of fish respiration and nitrification, and dissolved in the water from the atmosphere. Carbon dioxide levels should range from 5-15 Mg/l, once the level surpasses 20 Mg/l, fish may be harmed. Remember that aerating the water quickly causes carbon dioxide levels to decrease. If the tank is heavily planted and lightly stocked with fish, or if the water is hard, carbon dioxide fertilization may be necessary. However, carbon dioxide fertilization is usually not required for a beautifully planted aquarium. Carbon dioxide can be added to the fish tank using a carbon dioxide fertilizing system. Carbon dioxide fertilization is more popular outside the United States than it is within.

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Filtration
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Almost any filtration system (mentioned in the aquarium section) will work in a plant tank. The main requirements of the filtration system are: 1) that it does not create much water disturbance, because precious carbon dioxide will be lost; (2) that the filter remove floating particles that may block the lighting or settle on plant leaves; (3) and that the filter create some current to keep nutrients moving through the water and to prevent debris from settling on leaves.

Undergravel filters are not the best choice because the air bubbles create surface disturbance and the filter plate limits substrate size and composition.

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Planting
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Before planting the aquarium, make a rough sketch of how the tank should look. Include rocks and wood structures and plants so that there is a plan to follow.

Plants fall into different categories as to how tall they grow and their shape:



Foreground: Foreground plants are small, low growing species that often form carpet-like mattings by producing numerous runner plants. Foreground plants often inhabit shallow water and may require bright lighting. Plant foreground plants in front of middle ground and background plants.

Middle ground: Middle ground plants are medium sized species that can be used behind foreground plants, but in front of background plants. Middle ground plants can block unsightly stems of background plants.

Background: Background plants are usually tall and can be used to block out heaters, filters, hoses, and wires. Background plants are generally fast-growing species that require less light than foreground and middle ground species.

Bunch Plants: Bunch plants are usually middle ground or background species that look good in groups of several. Bunch plants are often easily propagated by cuttings.

Specimen Plants: Specimen plants are usually large, decorative species that are planted singly in the middle ground or background. Specimen plants are often used as a focal point and may be highlighted with a spot-light.

Contrast Plants: Different-looking plants can be used as a contrast to the other plants in the tank. Red-leafed plants can be used as a color contrast to green plants, while plants with pointed leaves can be used as a shape contrast to those with large round leaves. When contrasting plants, place plants with similarities in color, size, or shape away from one another, while planting plants with differences closer together.

Floating Plants: Floating plants require plenty of light, but must protected from leaf burn by leaving distance between them and the bulb. Floating plants often propagate very quickly by division and in a short matter of time, take over and aquarium and block out light. Floating plants should be kept out of the light path of plants below that require a lot of light.

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Propagation
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Plants have several means of reproducing. Some species reproduce amazingly fast, taking over an entire tank in a matter of weeks, while others do not appear to propagate themselves at all.
Cuttings: Cuttings are the easiest way to propagate plants. Simple cut a lengthy (6-8") section of stalk from the plant and plant it in the gravel. Plant cuttings with at least 1" (2.5 cm) of the stem under the substrate. Remove the leaves on the section that will be in the substrate. Plant tubers and bulbs at a 45° angle in the substrate with the growing tip pointing out of the gravel. Both the cutting and the original plant should continue to grow. Most bunch plants can reproduce by cuttings.

Runners: Many aquarium plants, especially foreground and Sword plant species produce outgrowths known as runners. These new shoots are formed on stems and usually grow along the substrate or within the substrate. Plants that reproduce by runners (daughter plants), are often prolific.

Rhizome: The roots of some plants produce side-shoots. These plants can be propagated by cutting the rhizome into pieces. Be sure to include some leaves and some roots with the rhizome. Replant the cut sections along the surface of the substrate. These sections should root.

Adventitious plants: Adventitious plants are plantlets that arise from the mother plant. The mother plant produces a number of plantlets with drift free of the mother plant, and root on their own. Adventitious plants will either be released by the mother plant or can be cut when the plantlets reach a suitable size. Also referred to as "division."

Seeds: Plants that flower produce seeds only after pollination, in nature, usually be insects. In aquaria, use a fine brush to transfer pollen from the stamens to the stigmas.
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Pruning
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Like land plants, aquarium plants need to be pruned and thinned on a regular basis. Many of the taller, stalky species will actually grow out of the water if they are left unpruned. Other tall species will grow along the water surface and block out light to lower species if they are not trimmed. Prunings of many species, can be replanted. With leafy plants, like Swords, the large, outer leaves may need to be removed to make room for new growth. Plants with floating leaves like Nymphaea species, need to be cut back so that the light is not blocked from lower plants. Cut the upper leaves until only the lower leaves remain. When plant branches become dense, they should be thinned by removing some branches.

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Plants to avoid
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There are several plants sold as aquatic plants in pet stores that are not actually aquatic. These plants do not grow for long underwater and eventually end up polluting the tank when they die. Among some of the commonly available nonaquatic species are: Aglaonema, Brazilian Sword, Cherry Hedge, Draceana (Princess Pine), Green Hedge, Mondo Grass, and "palms."

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Algae
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Almost every aquarium is plagued at some point by an "algae bloom." "Algae blooms" can be fueled by excess light, especially sunlight, and excess nutrients, especially nitrate and phosphate buildup. Thus "algae blooms" can often be prevented by regular water changes and placing the tank away from direct sunlight. There are several types of algae common in the aquarium:

GREEN ALGAE

Green thread (filamentous) algae: Green thread algae forms long, green, filaments which often grow from plants. Thread algae needs abundant light to thrive. Thread algae can be damaging to the aquarium by taking important nutrients that aquarium plants require. Thread algae can be controlled by algae-eating fish or by manual removal.

Pelt algae: Pelt algae adheres to plant leaves by a single filament an reaches a length of 0.8" (2 cm). Pelt algae usually develop in water with a high nitrate content and can cause plant leaves to die. To eradicate pelt algae, remove the filaments manually, introduce algae-eaters (Flying Foxes) or snails (ramshorn). Regular water changes slow pelt algae growth.

Suspended algae: Suspended algae usually resembles green water and is comprised of Volvox. Suspended algae is most commonly introduced when pond foods are fed. Suspended algae can be removed by a series of large water changes, filtering with a diatom filter, or using UV light. Algicides can also be used to get rid of suspended algae.

Green spot algae: A small, dark green algae that forms small, round spots on the leaves of plants and the tank glass. This species thrives in poor and unstable water conditions. Algae eating fish and snails can rid the aquarium of green spot algae. The stabilization of water conditions helps slow green spot algae growth.

Green bunch algae: This algae forms bunches up to 1.2" (3 cm) long. Green algae is most prevalent in tanks with excessive lighting and fertilization. Green bunch algae can be removed by hand or algae eating fish.
BLUE-GREEN ALGAE

Blue-green algae: Blue-green algae form a layer that covers plants and gravel. Blue-green algae are fueled by excessive illumination and high nitrate and phosphate levels. Blue-green algae can produce toxins that are harmful to fish. Blue green-algae are often refused by algae-eating fish because of its bad taste. Apple snails can slow blue-green algae growth, but the best treatment is 5-7 days of total darkness combined with several large water changes.
RED ALGAE

Beard algae: Beard algae forms long (up to 6"-15 cm), black to dark green, branches that are introduced with new aquarium plants and are prominent with high nitrate levels and/or carbon dioxide deficiency. Beard algae firmly attaches to plant leaves, so manual removal is damaging to the plant. Algae-eating fish can eliminate beard algae as can carbon dioxide fertilization.

Black spot algae: Black spot algae form small, black spots on plant leaves. The cause of black algae is unclear, but excess nutrients (nitrate) and light help its spread. Control is very difficult, the best means to take is to remove affected leaves.

Black brush algae: Black brush algae forms dark, muddy-green bunches that adhere leaves, rocks, gravel, and wood. This red algae causes leaves to die off and thrives in acidic water with a high nutrient load. Short forms can be removed by algae-eating fish, but long forms are best combated by carbon dioxide fertilization.
DIATOMS

Diatoms: Diatoms develop in aquaria that are poorly illuminated, have a high load of nitrate and phosphate, and a pH above 7. Diatoms forms a brownish layer on plants, rocks, and glass and can be removed by snails and algae-eaters. Diatoms die off when water conditions improve and lighting intensity is increased.
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Algicides
*********

Algicides are chemicals that can be used to eliminate algal growth in the aquaria. Algicides work on a limited range of algae including filamentous, blue-green, and diatoms. If possible, seek non-chemical means to combat algae as many algicides do have side affects towards plants.

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Trouble-shooting with Plants
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Besides algal infestations, plants can suffer other ailments, especially when the water conditions are not favorable. Water with incorrect properties can cause as much or more damage to a plant than nutrient deficiency. If plants begin to wane (i.e. prematurely yellowing and losing leaves, leaf damage), first check that the water conditions are in order. If they are, see the chart below for help.

Symptoms Possible Cause Action
-slender stalks
-smaller leaves
-lower leaves on plant stem
-lower leaf loss insufficient lighting Make sure that the plants have the right illumination period. Change the light bulbs if they have been used for longer than a year. Make sure that the lights are strong enough for the types of plants kept.
-small brown spots, developing into holes
-yellowing leaves high nitrate content from lack of water changes Make a series of moderate water changes.
-small, irregular holes with sharp edges in otherwise seemingly healthy leaves snail feeding Remove snails by hand.
-stunted growth
-premature die off carbon dioxide deficiency Start fertilizing with carbon fertilization. Decrease aeration.


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Recommended Aquatic Plant Resources
*************************************

Check out the following sites for quality information on aquarium plants:

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm
http://www.aquabotanic.com/index2.cfm
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/
http://home.infinet.net/teban/
http://www.tropica.com/default.asp
 
BIOTOPE AQUARIA -- Updated December.7.2004
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


A biotope aquaria is an aquarium that is set-up to simulate a natural habitat. The fish, plants, water chemistry, and furnishings are similar to those that can be found in a specific natural setting. (more)

Always check compatibility! Some species from a particular habitat are not suitable tankmates. For example, the Peacock Bass will eat small tetras since they are their natural food in the wild.

The biotope aquarium can be adpated by adding species from disparate areas that have similar water requirements.

Mongabay.com is the sole effort of Rhett A. Butler, who has taken the photos and written all of the content found on the site. If you find mongabay.com a useful resource I hope that you may consider making a contribution to help support the site. You can also assist by purchasing biotope books using links on this page.

[Photos from various habitats/biotopes]

Freshwater fish species listed by country and ecosystem -- excellent resources for constructing biotope aquaria.


AFRICA
African River Rapids
Lake Tanganyika
Madagascar Biotope 08/18/04
Lake Malawi
West or Central African River 06/21/04
Southern African Swamp
ASIA
Southeast Asian River
Thai Creek
Southeast Asian Blackwater Pool
Southeast Asian Mangrove Estuary
Indian/Burmese River
AUSTRALIA
New Guinea River
Northern Australia Rainforest Creek
CENTRAL AMERICA
Cenotes freshwater Cave system in Mexico 12/07/04
Central American Fast-Moving Stream 04/11/04
Central American Mangrove Estuary 04/16/04
Central American Livebearer Habitat 04/12/04
Central American Rocky Lake
Central American River 04/21/04
SOUTH AMERICA
South American Whitewater River
South American Clearwater Stream
South American Blackwater Creek 06/21/04
South American Blackwater Stream 06/21/04


Be sure not to miss links to other biotope resources and sites.

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African River Rapids
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The Zaire (Congo) River is the second largest river system in terms of volume. This mighty river drains much of West and Central Africa. Along its 2800 miles, the Zaire River moves through many environments including over 200 miles of rapids and cataracts. This rapid region is the inspiration for this biotope aquarium, although similar environments exist in other African rivers.

ECOSYSTEMS:
Congo_Zaire, Agnebi, Bandama River, Benue River, Bia River, Buba River, Casamance River, Cross River, Gambia River, Kariba, Little Scarcies, Niger River, Ogun River, Rokel, Saint John, Saint Paul, Saloum, Senegal River, Volta, Weme, Comoé River, Corubal River, Ebrie, Fatala, Geba, Kainji Lake, Kogon, Kolente, Konkoure, Loffa, Mano, Mao, Mono River, Nipoue, Pra, Sassandra, Sewa, Tano

WATER:
pH: 7.0-7.5, 6-10 dH, 77-81 F (25-27 C)

TANK:
The water in this habitat is highly oxygenated due to the turbulence created by the rapids -- therefore the water in the aquarium should be well-aerated. Leave plenty of open swimming area, but use some large rocks. The substrate should be fine gravel or sand. To create water current, place a spray bar from a canister filter, or a strong circulating pump at one end of the aquarium.

PLANTS:
Because of the strong water current, the rapids are not a hospitable place for plants.
In the aquarium, plants can be used if they well anchored or protected from the current.
Plants suitable for such an environment include the African Water Fern (Bolbitis heudeloti) and Anubias species.

FISH:
Eutropiellus, Distichodus, Synodontis, Steatocranus, Teleogramma, Lamprologus


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West or Central African River
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West and Central Africa are full of rivers. Some of the better known are the Zaire (Congo), Ubanghi, Niger, and the Gambia.
Within each of these river systems are numerous biotopes -- this description will focus on species found in slow-moving sections and side streams.

ECOSYSTEMS:
Congo_Zaire, Agnebi, Bandama River, Benue River, Bia River, Buba River, Casamance River, Cross River, Gambia River, Kariba, Little Scarcies, Niger River, Ogun River, Rokel, Saint John, Saint Paul, Saloum, Senegal River, Volta, Weme, Comoé River, Corubal River, Ebrie, Fatala, Geba, Kainji Lake, Kogon, Kolente, Konkoure, Loffa, Mano, Mao, Mono River, Nipoue, Pra, Sassandra, Sewa, Tano

WATER:
pH 6.9-7.2, 3-8 dH, 75-81 F (24-27 C)

TANK:
The tank should be furnished with wood for hiding places, and fine gravel or sand for a substrate.
The lighting should be muted, and the water should have a slight current.

PLANTS:
African Water Fern, Anubias, Vallisneria, Eleocharis.

FISH:
African tetras, Mormyrids, African Knifefish, African Butterfly fish, Synodontis, Hemichromis, Pelvicachromis, Tilapia

PHOTOS:
This picture was taken in Madagascar but is similar to habitats in West Africa, albeit with cooler temperatures [Mandraka, Madagascar, Mandraka, Madagascar].


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Southeast Asian River
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Much of Southeast Asia is rainforest and the location for a number of large rivers.
This biotope aquarium simulates a smaller tributary.

ECOSYSTEMS:
Amudar'ya, Chao Praya River, Irrawaddy, Mekong River, Salween

WATER:
pH 6.0-6.5, 2-8 dH, 79-84 F (26-29 C)

TANK:
The tank should be thickly planted with plenty of hiding places among wood and plants.
Use fine gravel or sand as a substrate.

PLANTS:
Crinum, Ceratopteris, Hygrophila, Cryptocoryne, Nymphaea

FISH:
Loaches, Barbs, Danios, Cyprind sharks (Red-tail, Bala, etc.), Pangasius catfish [suitable only for very large tanks], small Asian catfish, Knifefish

PHOTOS:
White Water River: Borneo White Water River, Borneo, Borneo, Borneo, Borneo, Borneo,
Whitewater creek: Borneo creek


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Southeast Asian Blackwater Pool
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Creeks and streams originating from deep in the rainforest are often blackwater.
With decaying plant vegetation and few, if any, mineral sources, the water is acidic and very soft.
This environment provides a home to many species of plants and fish.

WATER:
pH 5.5-6.5, 0-4 dH, 81-84 F (27-29 C)

TANK:
The tank should be densely planted with a fine gravel or clay substrate.
Use wood to create hiding places and use peat filtration.
There should be little surface current.

PLANTS:
Cryptocoryne, Nymphaea, Eleocharis

FISH:
Gouramis, Bettas, Rasboras, Loaches, Glass Catfish, Cyprind sharks, Flying Fox

PHOTOS:
Blackwater creek: Borneo creek, Borneo creek
Clearwater forest pool Borneo


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Southeast Asian Mangrove Estuary
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Mangrove swamps are found through the world where freshwater rivers come in contact with the ocean.
The result is a tidal region with varying salinity and water conditions.
The tides affect some of the types of fish present in the estuary, although fish termed ñbrackish water speciesî remain no matter the condition.

WATER:
pH 7.2-8.0, 10-20 dH, 75-82 F (24-28 C), 1.006-1.015 specific gravity.

TANK:
The tank should have a coral sand substrate.
Use wood and roots to recreate the mangrove roots of the swamp.
Use an efficient filtering system, because brackish water fish are heavy eaters, yet sensitive to water pollutants.
One popular brackish-water set-up is to leave the tank only half full with water. A sandy beach is constructed and potted mangrove seedlings grow above the water surface. Such a set-up allows an aquariast to observe unusual behavior from brackish species such as Mudskippers and Archerfish.

PLANTS:
Few plants can tolerate brackish conditions besides the mangrove.
Java Fern appears to be one of the only aquarium plants suitable for a brackish water tank.
Mangrove seedling can be kept in pots as long as the bulk of the plant is out of the water.
The Mangrove will require frequent pruning to keep it small enough for the aquarium.

FISH:
Mudskippers, Archerfish, Scats, Monos, Tiger fish, Puffers, Gobies, Glassfish, Halfbeaks, Arius catfish, and Celebes Rainbowfish.

PHOTOS:
Similar habitat in Australia (Mangrove estuary)


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Indian/Burmese River
++++++++++++++++++++

Despite India's tremendous population, there are still habitats for tropical fish species.
Neighboring Burma (Myanmar) shares many of India's interesting species.

ECOSYSTEMS:
Brahmaputra River, Cavally River, Ganges, Indus, Krishna River, Chilka Lake, Chittar River, Godavari, Irrawaddy

WATER:
pH: 7.0-7.7, 6-12 dH, 70-75 F (21-24 C)

TANK:
The tank should have bright lighting, fine gravel or sand, and heavy planting.
Rocks can be used for shelter and hiding places.

PLANTS:
Rotala, Ceratopteris, Aponogeton, Eleocharis, Blyxa

FISH:
Danios, Rosy Barbs, Colisa, Spiny eels, Climbing perches, Badis, Loaches, Gyrinocheilus, Chaca and Glass catfish.


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South American Clearwater Stream
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Clear or blue water streams are transparent rivers that drain the Guyana highlands and the Brazil rocky highlands.
These rivers are fast-flowing at times, but slow-moving at others.
The Rio Xingu and Rio Tocantins are typical clear water rivers.

ECOSYSTEMS:
Para-Tocantins

WATER:
pH 6.9-7.3, 5-12 dH, 75-82 F (24-28 C)

TANK:
The tank should have good filtration which keeps the water clear and creates a moderate current.
The lighting should be bright and plant life should be rich.
A substrate of fine gravel is suggested, as are a few pieces of wood.
Aerate the tank well.

PLANTS:
Sword plants, Ceratophyllum, Cabomba, Lemma, Limnobium, Vallisneria

FISH:
Loricarids, Corydoras, Uaru, Mesonauta, Hyphessobrycon.
These waters are preyed by the Peacock Bass.

`'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``
 

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