Please help with balloon Molly!

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A couple of issues here need explanation to help you moving forward. First, never use any form of algicide if fish are present. Fish continually take in water through all of their cells and at the gills, and substances in the water thus get into the fish's bloodstream. To say the least, none of these are beneficial to the fish, and they can add more stress if not worse. Anything that might kill algae is going to cause issues for the fish, and often plants for that matter.

Second, the plant additives. Keeping in mind the above, the less the better for the fish. Flourish Comprehensive Supplement is a complete balanced nutrient supplementation for plants. Use it minimally, more is not going to help the plants and it will affect the fish, and possibly other organisms too (snails, shrimp, bacteria). I have been using this for over ten years. Their Flourish Tabs which are placed in the substrate can be extremely good for larger substrate-rooted plants like swords.

Flourish Iron should not be used; there is sufficient iron in the Comprehensive. Iron can increase algae, and it can kill some plants, I went through this, it decimated my floating Water Sprite. Plant nutrients have to be in balance according to the needs of the plants; if one nutrient is in excess, it can sometimes cause plants to shut down assimilation of certain other nutrients.

Flourish Excel should not be added to any aquarium with fish, ever. It is a highly toxic disinfectant (glutaraldehyde) and inside the fish this is not good. Even at recommended dosage it can kill some plants outright, and if it should get overdosed it could kill plants, fish and bacteria. I often will kill black beard/brush algae, but that in itself is or should be a warning not to use it with fish present. It is used in hospitals to disinfect surgical instruments, in embalming fluid, in ship's ballasts to kill bacteria...I trust you get the drift.

On that so-called catfish (which it definitely is not), it is some species of cyprinid but I've no idea which. I was reminded of the so-called algae eaters or loaches.

I really appreciate all of the information that you gave me. I've been misled and will never trust these sources again. Aside from this forum can you tell me about trusted suppliers. I would never knowingly hurt any creature, unless it is harmful. Again thanks.
 
Regarding the other fish, is a koi carp a pond fish who will grow quite large? Why would anyone put these particular fish together in a 2.5 gal flashing led lights.
Koi carp can grow to 5 feet long but are usually around 2ft in most ponds.

People think they look pretty so buy them.
 
I really appreciate all of the information that you gave me. I've been misled and will never trust these sources again. Aside from this forum can you tell me about trusted suppliers. I would never knowingly hurt any creature, unless it is harmful. Again thanks.

Seachem is a trusted manufacturer of fish care products, but that does not mean all their products should be used. I use their Flourish Comprehensive Supplement and their Flourish Tabs with very good results, but the point I was making earlier is that no matter how "safe" a product that goes into the water may be, it is still impacting the fish. Some planted tank aquarists with high-tech planted tanks use diffused CO2, but there are studies now indicating that this may be impacting fish in those tanks. Most would consider CO2 safe (if controlled obviously), but that is not the same as having no effect on the fish. Water conditioner is needed to dechlorinate at water changes, but overuse can harm fish.

Having said that, there are some products that I and many others do not feel should ever be used, and Flourish Excel is one of these. Common sense should tell us that putting a chemical like glutaraldehyde in a tank with live fish is not sensible. API's CO2 Booster is also glutaraldehyde.

API is another highly trusted manufacturer, and I use and heartily recommend their Tap Water Conditioner as frankly the best available. Their test kits are widely used as reliable. Some of their other products such as certain medications are also beneficial depending upon the disease and the product. But as with medications for humans, using more does not usually benefit and may be detrimental.

Most of us when we started in this hobby were led into using various products that promised cleaner water, healthier fish, and lovelier tanks. Many of these are just not needed to achieve these goals, and their use can actually be more harmful than beneficial, especially when used wantonly or in excess. I have learned over many years that water changes are the best preventative you can do, along with understanding the needs of the fish and providing for those in a balanced aquarium.
 
Common sense should tell us that putting a chemical like glutaraldehyde in a tank with live fish is not sensible. API's CO2 Booster is also glutaraldehyde.
Anything that claims to be liquid carbon or liquid CO2 is most likely glutaraldehyde and should be avoided.
 
Koi carp can grow to 5 feet long but are usually around 2ft in most ponds.

People think they look pretty so buy them.
Byron said the fish looks like a cypr
Seachem is a trusted manufacturer of fish care products, but that does not mean all their products should be used. I use their Flourish Comprehensive Supplement and their Flourish Tabs with very good results, but the point I was making earlier is that no matter how "safe" a product that goes into the water may be, it is still impacting the fish. Some planted tank aquarists with high-tech planted tanks use diffused CO2, but there are studies now indicating that this may be impacting fish in those tanks. Most would consider CO2 safe (if controlled obviously), but that is not the same as having no effect on the fish. Water conditioner is needed to dechlorinate at water changes, but overuse can harm fish.

Having said that, there are some products that I and many others do not feel should ever be used, and Flourish Excel is one of these. Common sense should tell us that putting a chemical like glutaraldehyde in a tank with live fish is not sensible. API's CO2 Booster is also glutaraldehyde.

API is another highly trusted manufacturer, and I use and heartily recommend their Tap Water Conditioner as frankly the best available. Their test kits are widely used as reliable. Some of their other products such as certain medications are also beneficial depending upon the disease and the product. But as with medications for humans, using more does not usually benefit and may be detrimental.

Most of us when we started in this hobby were led into using various products that promised cleaner water, healthier fish, and lovelier tanks. Many of these are just not needed to achieve these goals, and their use can actually be more harmful than beneficial, especially when used wantonly or in excess. I have learned over many years that water changes are the best preventative you can do, along with understanding the needs of the fish and providing for those in a balanced aquarium.
Hello again,
I received my API GH and KH test kit. I tested both tap water and aquarium water.
Tap water GH=5 dKH, or 89.5 ppm and the test was repeated to be sure. Tap water KH= 4 dKH or 71.6 ppm, also repeated with the same results. This is using the GH and KH chart on the written instructions. My best answer is for aquarium water GH= 7 or 125.ppm and KH 2 or 35.8 ppm
Tests on the aquarium water were tricky as the water in the test tube didn't change to blue with the first drop ( which according to instructions was suppose to happen) and had different 3 shades of yellow and instructions state to choose "bright yellow" and I chose the brightest before it started looking orange.
My molly fish is much perkier today. She doesn't just sink to the bottom and stay for hours. I think her eye looks a tiny bit improved. Thanks again. I forgot to say that I do use the API Stress Coat which removes chlorine and chloramines.
 
Your water is too soft for mollies and will cause long (and even short) term health issues. Most cyprinids also prefer harder water so at least you don't have to deal with completely different requirements for water. The size issue doesn't go away as carp are cyprinids :). Are you able to get some still photos of the fish to help with identification.

There are several ways you can increase the hardness, which you should do for both of these fish. I'll let others advise on the best approach because my own experience is exactly the opposite problem (I have very hard water and soft water fish)
 
I agree with seangee (post #38 above) but we are forgetting something. This tank is a 10g according to an earlier post, and mention was made of maybe a 20g later. Neither is large enough for the "carp" nor actually mollies either. So before you start fussing over water parameters, a few things should be sorted out. You should re-home the "carp" if at all possible. The molly, well, I am still surprised it is still alive, but I cannot see this lasting too long.

The API GH test turns green at the number of drops representing the GH in dGH of the water. It is easiest to add the drop to the tube, cap it and shake it, then uncap it and hold it over a white surface and look down through the tube of water from the open end with the colour card beside the bottom. It is much easier to see the first change to green, which may be faint but that is the number. The KH test I've never used, so if they say to add drops to increase the tone, maybe, but this is NOT the case with the GH test.

API's Stress Coat was mentioned. Don't use this product, it contains aloe vera and this is now believed from studies to be detrimental to fish gills the longer they are exposed to it. Here is a case of a reputable company (API) producing a product that is best not used, ever. Their Tap Water Conditioner is safe, highly effective, and I think the best on the market as it does only what you need. And being highly concentrated, less is needed (half the recommended dose of Prime for example).

Adjusting water parameters is possible, but not exactly easy. You need to prepare water in advance for all water changes. Weekly partial changes of 50-70% of the tank volume may be relatively easy, if you have space for a tub in which to prepare the water, but emergency water changes (and they will be needed) are trickier.
 
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Hi, I always prepare the water in advance for water changes. I just was using API Stress Coat and will now use the Tap Water Conditioner. I taped a paper ruler to the outside of the tank and my best estimate of the larger fish is 4 - 4.5 inches I will definitely find him a good home if his growth exceeds what I can reasonably accommodate. He needs a good quality of life.And allow for tank or pond mates. I'd like to know first. I've tried many times to send a video but I'm not able to figure it out. My very hungry fishy friend will not cooperate at all by being still. The molly seems quite a bit better. I will try again tomorrow for a pic. Thanks for helping.
 
Post #19 on page 2 of this thread has a short video showing the cyprinid (goldfish and carp are in the cyprinid group). The fish has whiskers, which are typical of koi and has long fins. In my opinion it's a young long finned koi carp.
 
With the API GH and KH testers if the first drop shows the end colour it means a level of zero. It doesn't matter about the intensity of yellow, it's the colour that matters. When only one or two drops are needed to reach the end point colour, it will be pale because the reagent is dilute.
 
Post #19 on page 2 of this thread has a short video showing the cyprinid (goldfish and carp are in the cyprinid group). The fish has whiskers, which are typical of koi and has long fins. In my opinion it's a young long finned koi carp.
Thank you Collin. I have taken many pics but unable to post due to technical difficulties. I'll work on finding him a better home. Butterfly Koi came up somewhere along the line.

The Molly with "popeye" is doing so much better. Eye swelling is less and she's very active spending very little time on bottom of aquarium.
 
Butterfly and long fin koi are the same thing.

Good to hear the molly appears to be getting better. Continue doing what you are doing for a few more weeks and monitor the fish.
 
API "Tap Water Conditioner" It states on label that it "works instantly" to remove chlorine and chloramines and I just want to be sure. I know it is concentrated and have no trouble calculating the dose.
 

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