PLEASE HELP! Multiple mistakes made, but I’m learning.

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There are some general issues mentioned in this last post (#29) for which I should be able to provide some guidance.



Presumably this comment is in reference to Seriously Fish. Most of the profiles recommend minimum tank dimensions rather than volume. This is because the physical space is the more important factor. For example, a group of "x" fish may be fine in a 20 gallon long which is 30 inches by 12 inches (75 cm by 30 cm) length and width; but the same group of "x" fish might not be suited to a 20 gallon high/basic which is 24 inches by 12 inches (60 cm by 30 cm). So the volume is not the critical factor, it is the length and width that matters.

As for page display problems, sometimes these can be overcome by logging in as a member rather than browsing. There is no charge on SF. And you will not likely receive more reliable information on fish species anywhere else.



There are a number of long-standing myths in this hobby that keep getting repeated. There is also the problem of the internet...a great source of information but only if one accesses the reliable sources. Any one with the money can set up a website and promote themselves as expert; anyone can post videos proclaiming what is absolute nonsense and rubbish. But there are also reliable and accurate sites. I always make it a habit to learn about the individual running the site--if he/she has credentials in the scientific side of the hobby, fine; if not, buyer beware.

This is a scientific hobby. Every aspect of water chemistry within the aquarium is governed by the laws of nature. Same holds for the requirements of the fish, and their physiological function, metabolism, etc. Not everyone can learn the chemistry, ichthyology, biology, botany...but we can learn from those who have. Seriously Fish, Planet Catfish, Loaches Online, Corydoras World...these are some of the highly reliable sites run by educated and experienced people. Seldom will you find conflicting data from these. I always find out who owns/runs a site, and what their qualiifications are, before paying attention to what they say.

The initial issue I believe was the "rule" of 1 inch of fish per gallon. This may work with fish less than one inch in size, but it most certainly does not work beyond that, as other members have noted. Selecting fish for an aquarium takes research...the requirements of the fish (shoaling species require a group of "x" or more, species "a" might be a aggressive to this or that type of tankmate, the water parameters [GH, temperature, pH] are crucial, the flow from the filter might be an issue, the aquascape decor [substrate material, plants, wood, rock], etc, etc, etc. It is much more involved than just fish mass to water volume.



I don't understand what is the issue here, can you clarify?
Yeah, what he said. ;) :lol:
 
I made a beginners mistake of not doing all my research before getting a new aquarium started! My fault, I totally admit it and feel bad for the several fish friends that have already perished, but please help me going forward!

I Bought a 38 gallon tank at Petsmart that came with a penguin 200 bio wheel power filter, and a heater. Set it up with gravel and large rocks along with a piece of driftwood I bought from local small business fish store. Theres a medium air stone supplied by a tetra whisper 40 air pump also 5 small Vallisneria Spiralis and one anubius Nana plant. I let the tank sit full of water but without fish, for 2 days. Then...

I made the mistake of adding all the fish at once this tank could hold for tank size:fish ratio BEFORE the new tank had even cycled! I’ve lost several (2 tiger barb, 2 guppy, 1 honey gourami, 1 bristle nose pleco). There are currently 5, 1” Glofish tetra, 1 swordtail, 1 bristle nose pleco, 1 Cory cat fish, and 2 platy.
Feeding a small amount once, every other day.

I’ve added API quick start (several times), once did a monthly bacteria cleaning solution, Tetra brand water conditioner/dechlorinator, Tetra monthly maintenance was added once.
Was I supposed to add any chemicals besides the dechlorinator while the cycle was taking place?
I have been doing 10-15% water changes every other day.

My nitrates have been
DO I NEED TO JUST START OVER AND LOOSE SOME FISH???!!

Clean/vacuum the gravel, 50% water change, and get down to 5, 6 FISH MAX! No more chemicals (besides dechlorinator when 10-15% water change is performed every other day). Then allow the tank the cycle before doing anything else?
What about the plants?

I’d really appreciate someone’s help!
The immediate issue is, as you have identified, the tank is not cycled. The answer is water changes.
Test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate daily. If results are above 0,0,20 do a water change of no less than 50%. Use dechlorinator. Clean the gravel at the same time.
Reduce feeding to twice a week, the fish will be fine with this honestly
If you are going to buy anything it should be Safe start but nothing else will help as much as lots of fresh clean water. It may take six weeks of this but let us know how you are getting on, immediately if more fish die.
 
There are some general issues mentioned in this last post (#29) for which I should be able to provide some guidance.



Presumably this comment is in reference to Seriously Fish. Most of the profiles recommend minimum tank dimensions rather than volume. This is because the physical space is the more important factor. For example, a group of "x" fish may be fine in a 20 gallon long which is 30 inches by 12 inches (75 cm by 30 cm) length and width; but the same group of "x" fish might not be suited to a 20 gallon high/basic which is 24 inches by 12 inches (60 cm by 30 cm). So the volume is not the critical factor, it is the length and width that matters.

As for page display problems, sometimes these can be overcome by logging in as a member rather than browsing. There is no charge on SF. And you will not likely receive more reliable information on fish species anywhere else.



There are a number of long-standing myths in this hobby that keep getting repeated. There is also the problem of the internet...a great source of information but only if one accesses the reliable sources. Any one with the money can set up a website and promote themselves as expert; anyone can post videos proclaiming what is absolute nonsense and rubbish. But there are also reliable and accurate sites. I always make it a habit to learn about the individual running the site--if he/she has credentials in the scientific side of the hobby, fine; if not, buyer beware.

This is a scientific hobby. Every aspect of water chemistry within the aquarium is governed by the laws of nature. Same holds for the requirements of the fish, and their physiological function, metabolism, etc. Not everyone can learn the chemistry, ichthyology, biology, botany...but we can learn from those who have. Seriously Fish, Planet Catfish, Loaches Online, Corydoras World...these are some of the highly reliable sites run by educated and experienced people. Seldom will you find conflicting data from these. I always find out who owns/runs a site, and what their qualiifications are, before paying attention to what they say.

The initial issue I believe was the "rule" of 1 inch of fish per gallon. This may work with fish less than one inch in size, but it most certainly does not work beyond that, as other members have noted. Selecting fish for an aquarium takes research...the requirements of the fish (shoaling species require a group of "x" or more, species "a" might be a aggressive to this or that type of tankmate, the water parameters [GH, temperature, pH] are crucial, the flow from the filter might be an issue, the aquascape decor [substrate material, plants, wood, rock], etc, etc, etc. It is much more involved than just fish mass to water volume.



I don't understand what is the issue here, can you clarify?
20-80
Too small tanks could cause internal problems too big of a tank is not cost effective.

As for your recommendation. I tend to agree. With u. Though I still don't understand how they calculate it out I will say this method is a better method. And thank your for helping with the page issues. I am still learning ^-^ .
 
The very first 'rule' for stocking was based on the surface area of the tank. If the water was not moving, how many square inches of surface would be needed to provide enough oxygen for 1 inch of fish. Then it moved on to volume. The "1 inch per gallon" rule is nearly always quoted incorrectly. The rule in full is "1 inch of fish that are torpedo shaped and grow no larger than 3 inches, per gallon". The 'rule' never applied to fish with an adult size of more than 3 inches, nor to fish that are deep top to bottom such as angelfish (though they are also disqualified on size grounds).
Nowadays we realise that these rules are way too simplistic to apply to any fish regardless of size or shape. There are far more things to take into account than just so many fish per gallon - behaviour, water requirements, compatibility etc must also be taken into account.
 
There appears to be lots of comments with very little helpful information in this thread.

The best thing the OP can do is a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the ammonia and nitrite levels are 0, and the nitrate level is less than 20ppm. Then do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

If you have concerns about how many fish your tank can hold, post the tank dimensions (length x width x height), along with a list of all the fish you have, and we can make suggestions on how to improve the situation.
 
There appears to be lots of comments with very little helpful information in this thread.

The best thing the OP can do is a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until the ammonia and nitrite levels are 0, and the nitrate level is less than 20ppm. Then do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

If you have concerns about how many fish your tank can hold, post the tank dimensions (length x width x height), along with a list of all the fish you have, and we can make suggestions on how to improve the situation.
The OP already listed fish and tank size.
 
In the first post of the thread

I’ve lost several (2 tiger barb, 2 guppy, 1 honey gourami, 1 bristle nose pleco). There are currently 5, 1” Glofish tetra, 1 swordtail, 1 bristle nose pleco, 1 Cory cat fish, and 2 platy.
 
Can I just add the gallon per inch of fish is completely out dated and should not be used! When following this rule it would mean you could have a 10 inch fish in a 10 gallon tank which is just ridiculous!
The one inch per rule is in addition to minimum tank size...
 
I used to try to follow the one inch per fish rule but was always confused as to what that realky meant. Like a one inch Angel Fish and a one inch Puffer...two totally different shaped fish! What about fins? And so on...

One thing I have come to understand after reading many different threads is, and if someone else said this I don't mean to claim the idea, but merely to put my spin on it, is the following:

Try to create an environment as similar as possible to the one the fish has in nature.
Fast swimming fish need long tanks, for example, or they may be bumping into the walls of the tank.

I am doing some adjustments on my tanks and fish. I have a Pea Puffer and a Betta.
The two tanks are: a 5g Fluval Spec
that is long and thin, and 5g Aqueon MiniBow, which is a more square shape with a bow front.

I will put the my more active Betta that requires more distance for exercise in the Fluval to swim fast a long way without having to turn, and the Puffer in the Aqueon. Even though she can also go fast when she needs to, most of the time she is more of a floaty hovering little thing.

She is also tiny compared to him, so the MiniBow ratio-wise is actually offers her similar legnth to go for exercise.

After reading this it doesn't really make sense because Pea Puffers are so small compared to a Betta, but I am posting anyway just to give an idea of how I am reasoning it all out. :)

The same idea would apply to water flow. For example, Betta's live in areas with less water flow than fish that live in rushing water, so that is something else I will have to consider when buying a filter. Most, in my experience, tank set-up have to active of a filter for Betta's so I have to get creative in order to keep him comfortable by using a baffle and/or positioning plants and decorations in a position to divert and block the current.

So maybe keep these types of situations in mind rather than trying to follow "rules."

Also, in my case less stocking just makes sense, the fish will have more space to "be" a fish and not just an ornament for me to "have."
 
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Referring to a quarantine tank. I am currently shopping for one myself. I am looking for a used tank.
Offerup on the internet is better than Craigs List. Many more for sale and some are also free. So far I have purchased 2 full tank setups for a fraction of the original cost. The ads change daily. Good Luck.
 
The very first 'rule' for stocking was based on the surface area of the tank. If the water was not moving, how many square inches of surface would be needed to provide enough oxygen for 1 inch of fish. Then it moved on to volume. The "1 inch per gallon" rule is nearly always quoted incorrectly. The rule in full is "1 inch of fish that are torpedo shaped and grow no larger than 3 inches, per gallon". The 'rule' never applied to fish with an adult size of more than 3 inches, nor to fish that are deep top to bottom such as angelfish (though they are also disqualified on size grounds).
Nowadays we realise that these rules are way too simplistic to apply to any fish regardless of size or shape. There are far more things to take into account than just so many fish per gallon - behaviour, water requirements, compatibility etc must also be taken into account.

It never ceases to amaze me that more fish keepers don't invest in a proper surface skimmer. This will solve your gas exchange issues.
 

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