Pipework For A Fuge

[xxBarneyxx]

Ok basically I'm going to add a large fuge to my nano tank (around 10g) and it is going to sit above my tank. i was looking at the pipework for it though and got a bit lost.

What I need is:

Down:
Two overflows/Bulkheads, 16mm on the fuge
90° joint to pipe going down.
90° joint to pipe going into tank
Two ball valves to control flow.

Up:
Just going to use a newjet 800 with 16mm silcone tubing.

 

[Adrinal]

Ok basically I'm going to add a large fuge to my nano tank (around 10g) and it is going to sit above my tank. i was looking at the pipework for it though and got a bit lost.

What I need is:

Down:
Two overflows/Bulkheads, 16mm on the fuge
90° joint to pipe going down.
90° joint to pipe going into tank
Two ball valves to control flow.

Up:
Just going to use a newjet 800 with 16mm silcone tubing.

dont put any valves on water flowing by gravity power.
I use 45s typically into the tank.

 

[xxBarneyxx]

dont put any valves on water flowing by gravity power.
I use 45s typically into the tank.

I was planning on putting them there so that if I needed to move it I could just shut the taps off. Thinking about it though you dont need this if the pump is turned off because there will be no water going down the pipes anyway....... (you can tell I haven't really done this before ).

I might be able to get away with using 45's into the tank but I have to modifiy the edge of the hood and back compartments so not sure it will work with that angle (will have to cut the hood up too high and might not be able to get the return pipes into the right chamber on the tank).

Edit: Thanks by the way

 

[xxBarneyxx]

So looking at the site below to do what I want I need?
[URL="http/www.stm-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Imperial_Fittings.html"]http/www.stm-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Imperial_Fittings.html[/URL]

X2 bulkhead connectors (what is the difference between these and tank connectors?)
X2 90° elbows
X2 45° elbows (with two 90's just incase I cant get the 45's to fit)
Piping to cover length

Only thing I'm not really sure of is the bulk head connector (can you attached pipe directly to this or do you need something betwen the two)?

Another stupid question. How do you know if a PVC container is reef safe? I'm hoping I can use a clear PVC storage box for the fuge and I will also need to get a large container (was hoping a "wheelie bin") to mix of large quantites of water later on but I seem to remeber reading somewhere that some PVC is not reef safe and leeches chemicals into the water.

 

[SkiFletch]

Hehe, ok back the truck up a bit here

That site looks like bulkhead connectors are far less inconspicuous as they have a flush side, while tank connectors are meant to connect plumbing through the wall. slightly different application but you prolly want bulkheads. You will however have to find out whether they are slip fit (designed to glue into the pipe) or threaded on the backside... the website isn't too clear on that

How are you gonna do the drain from the fuge to the display? Drill the back or the bottom?

 

[xxBarneyxx]

You will however have to find out whether they are slip fit (designed to glue into the pipe) or threaded on the backside... the website isn't too clear on that

Glad its not just me that the site doesnt look clear too

How are you gonna do the drain from the fuge to the display? Drill the back or the bottom?

The fuge will be drilled from the side/back to drain.

 

[SkiFletch]

When drilling the side/back, you have to use a Tee immediately after the bulkhead with the middle attached to the bulkhead, the top capped off with a small hole drilled through the cap (say 1/8" hole) and the bottom drains down to the display. Search the intarweb for "Calfo Overflow" for some helpful pics

Last you'll need to know what your approximate flowrate is to determine the size of your bulkhead, internal weir, and drain pipe.

 

[xxBarneyxx]

When drilling the side/back, you have to use a Tee immediately after the bulkhead with the middle attached to the bulkhead, the top capped off with a small hole drilled through the cap (say 1/8" hole) and the bottom drains down to the display. Search the intarweb for "Calfo Overflow" for some helpful pics

ahh yes I forgot about that. Had seen it on a lot of pictures but didnt actually think about what it was there for......

Flow rate will be a min of 92gph and a max of 120gph (according the pump manufacturer is should be around 110gph) so I could most likely get away with a single 3/4inch bulkhead but will go with two just incase (guessing there is no reason why this would be a bad idea)?

I would go with larger diameter piping but as I have to cut our sections of the hood on my nano and want it to be as small as possible.

Glad a posted on here before getting anything.

 

[SkiFletch]

Flow rate will be a min of 92gph and a max of 120gph (according the pump manufacturer is should be around 110gph) so I could most likely get away with a single 3/4inch bulkhead but will go with two just incase (guessing there is no reason why this would be a bad idea)?

Sounds great. TBH, at that low flowrate you could get away with 1/2" bulkheads and piping. And the only reason 2 drains is a bad idea is if you enjoy a snail clogging your only drain and having saltwater all over your floor . N+1 as we say here in the lab. Its best to have them at slightly different heights. That way most of the time one drain is handling the flow. If a critter, algae, or something plugs it, water level rises a little bit and goes down the second one

 

[xxBarneyxx]

Flow rate will be a min of 92gph and a max of 120gph (according the pump manufacturer is should be around 110gph) so I could most likely get away with a single 3/4inch bulkhead but will go with two just incase (guessing there is no reason why this would be a bad idea)?

Sounds great. TBH, at that low flowrate you could get away with 1/2" bulkheads and piping. And the only reason 2 drains is a bad idea is if you enjoy a snail clogging your only drain and having saltwater all over your floor . N+1 as we say here in the lab. Its best to have them at slightly different heights. That way most of the time one drain is handling the flow. If a critter, algae, or something plugs it, water level rises a little bit and goes down the second one

Thats a good idea.

Can you just double check this would work as an overflow, different site but listed as tank connector.
http/www.coralculture.co.uk/shop/product...products_id=698

If so then the shopping list is:
2 x 20mm 90 Degree Elbow
2 x 20mm 45 Degree Elbow
2 x 20mm End Caps
2 x 20mm T Piece
2 x 20mm Rigid Pipe - 2.4m Length
1 x Solvent Weld Glue - 125g Tube
2 x 20mm Pipe Bracket
2 x 20mm Tank Connector
2 x 16-22mm Hose - 1 Metre Length


(thanks )

 

[SkiFletch]

Looks good to me. That bulkhead connector even looks like it has the added benefit of having a Union fitting on it. So you can dry-fit and glue the plumbing, leak test it, then take it off at the union, move it into place and then install it. Looks good

Now, what about the return side?

 

[xxBarneyxx]

Umm this is the return side. Fuge is going above the tank so the return pipe will just go straight down into the top of the tank. From the main tank to the fuge I'm just going to take the easy option and use 16mm hose.

Tried to draw it out in sketch up but cant get the piping right This should give you a rough idea of the plan though.

The water from the tank flows into the first chamber where there is a pump with 16mm tube (green) going up to the far end of the sump.
The water goes through the sump out of the overflows and into the middle chamber through 20mm piping.
The water goes from the middle chamber into the last chamber where there is LR rubble and a pump returning the water to the tank via a spray bar.

 

[SkiFletch]

Ok, you'll need a check valve and have two smaller holes drilled in the return pipe just below the surface of the water where it enters. This offers two levels of anti-siphon protection (check valve will do most of it, but if it fails, the little hole will break siphon in the return line in the event of a powerloss). And lastly, on the return side I'd consider placing a union fitting wherever it makes it convenient in case you ever need to move the system, disassemble it, or service it

 

[xxBarneyxx]

Ok, you'll need a check valve and have two smaller holes drilled in the return pipe just below the surface of the water where it enters. This offers two levels of anti-siphon protection (check valve will do most of it, but if it fails, the little hole will break siphon in the return line in the event of a powerloss). And lastly, on the return side I'd consider placing a union fitting wherever it makes it convenient in case you ever need to move the system, disassemble it, or service it

I was going to have the return pipe just above the surface of the water so if the pump does fail it will only be the water in the pipe that runs back (so no need to worry about a siphon being created). Is there a reason I shouldnt do it like that though?

 

[SkiFletch]

That works just fine. I'd still use a check valve too. Always use two levels of protection, one snail can ruin your party