Newbie(ish) New Freshwater Aquarium Water Parameters Help Needed!

But I have no idea what the 'total hardness' box in bold refers to ????

If I manage to speak to someone at NW I will try and find out.
PS any good fish shops in your neck of the woods?

This can be an issue, but not always. I have tap water with a pH of 8.6 now, achieved by adding soda ash. I have been doing slightly smaller-volume water changes, as the pH in my tanks is in the 5-6 range. You could check to see if they add anything to your water.
Thanks, I will see if I can get that info.
Is it your water supplier who adds the soda ash and just out of interest do you know why?
 
PS any good fish shops in your neck of the woods?
Probably a bit far for you, but Aquatic Finatic just south of Northallerton on the Thirsk Road.
And I've just discovered Horizon Aquatics at Newton Aycliffe - an aquascaping specialist which sells some fish. They sell a lot of plant stuff, including in vitro plants, tools, hardscape and dry goods like filters but they also have a fish room and a nano room with tiny fish, shrimps and snails.
 
Thanks, I will see if I can get that info.
Is it your water supplier who adds the soda ash and just out of interest do you know why?

Yes. Soda ash is a common additive used to increase the pH. An acidic pH will over time corrode the pipes, and this increase prevents that, so they say. Other members have similar situations. It is not a permanent pH change, as soda ash does dissipate out within a day or so.
 
Yes. Soda ash is a common additive used to increase the pH. An acidic pH will over time corrode the pipes, and this increase prevents that, so they say. Other members have similar situations. It is not a permanent pH change, as soda ash does dissipate out within a day or so.
So my water supplier are likely to be adding something that is raising the pH to protect the pipes etc and once we know what it is we may know if this should dissipate.
That's obviously why you asked me to wait overnight before testing the water, I think it's all starting to make a bit more sense now! :)
I think I'll fill a jug and test it every 24 hrs until it stabilises.

With regard to my current fish you have mentioned that I should remove the platys due to the low pH, however they "appear" to be OK and have even produced some fry.
Before I make any final decision I will wait for more water info but if I do arrive at a low pH (6.5ish) then are platys a definite no?
I also have mollies so the same question for these.
My other fish are neon tetras and panda corys which I believe should be fine.

It's amazing to think that 20 years ago I had a 6ft community tank full of various fish and from what I can remember the only question ever asked was if a fish was a community fish or not!
And it's sad that often some of the fish shops still seem to stick to that as the deciding factor of whether to sell you a fish or not. :(

Thanks again for all of your help!:thanks:
 
With regard to my current fish you have mentioned that I should remove the platys due to the low pH, however they "appear" to be OK and have even produced some fry.
Before I make any final decision I will wait for more water info but if I do arrive at a low pH (6.5ish) then are platys a definite no?
I also have mollies so the same question for these.

I have already responded on this in post #19. But you now bring in the "appearance" of the fish so I guess it needs more detail.

Unless you are able to talk to a fish, there is no way you can be certain of its condition. It is true that significant health issues do tend to be easily seen...but the effects of inappropriate water parameters and conditions can be slow over long periods. The damage is being done slowly, and the fish is struggling to manage as best it can, but eventually it is so weakened it either develops disease or health issues that would normally be easily overcome, or it just gives up and dies.

As for spawning...every animal species including fish has an incredible will to survive, and the reproduction aspect is the strongest. A fish will do everything it can to eat and reproduce, so neither aspect should be taken as indicating it is "OK." It is not.

The mollies are most affected by a lack of sufficient calcium, but the platies have the same issues.
 
@Essjay
Aquatic Finatic does look a little far but Horizon Aquatics is not too far and does look quite interesting so I may take a trip down.
I've done a google and found these shops in the local area that look worth a visit..
 
@Byron
Thanks for the clarification. Once I am confident that I know what my permanent tap water pH is then I will rehome any unsuitable fish regardless of how they "appear" to be.
 
@Byron
Thanks for the clarification. Once I am confident that I know what my permanent tap water pH is then I will rehome any unsuitable fish regardless of how they "appear" to be.

It is the GH more than the pH, but both are important here.
 
@Byron
Should I be letting my water settle/stabilise for a period before adding it to my tank?

If the parameters--here we refer to GH, pH and temperature--of the tank water and the tap water are reasonably the same, then the tap water can be added to the tank once the tap water is conditioned (water conditioner to dechlorinate). Conditioners work instantly.
 
@sparkypenguin I've been to Chilton Aquatics a few times, though not recently - I don't drive so I have to twist my husband's arm and Chilton Aq was usually on the way home from Newcastle and we've not been there since Covid. They do (or did last time I was there) stock some less common fish, mainly soft water such as species of apistogramma. They were happy to order fish in if they weren't in stock - though they were disgusted when the wholesaler substituted a different fish from the one I wanted and didn't tell them.

I had not heard of the Wheatley Hill shop till I read your post!
 

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