New whiptail+ 20 gallon stocking idea+ biggest amazon frogbit I have ever seen

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Let's say I get a 25 gallon, what can I have with a pair of apistogramma and 8-10 green neon rasboras?
 
Let's say I get a 25 gallon, what can I have with a pair of apistogramma and 8-10 green neon rasboras?
You may have said before, but what are you pH and GH readings?
 
You may be able to get Neon Tetras. Maybe Harlequin Rasboras? Having the neon and the regular may look cool.
 
You may be able to get Neon Tetras. Maybe Harlequin Rasboras? Having the neon and the regular may look cool.
I don't think I will gat another schooling fish that swims in the middle. Could I get dwarf corys with an apistogramma pair? Otherwise I would love to get hatchetfish or pencilfish since I can't get them in my 55g because of the pearl gouramis (I think?). @Byron you might be able to get me more informations about them :) Turns out my dad was pointing at a 45 gallon lol, I think a 30 gallon will probably what we will get.
 
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I don't think I will gat another schooling fish that swims in the middle. Could I get dwarf corys with an apistogramma pair? Otherwise I would love to get hatchetfish or pencilfish since I can't get them in my 55g because of the pearl gouramis (I think?). @Byron you might be able to get me more informations about them :) Turns out my dad was pointing at a 45 gallon lol, I think a 30 gallon will probably what we will get.

Generally, if you intend a pair of Apistogramma with the intention of raising fry, you do not want cories; being nocturnal, they will eat the eggs at night when the parent cichlids are not able to defend them. If the eggs clutch should hatch, cories are also very adept at swallowing the fry if they come upon the shoal, and here too the cichlid mother is unable to fend off cories. However, the pygmy and dwarf cory species are less likely to go after eggs, and I doubt very much they would even want to try with the fry.

Hatchetfish and pencilfish--some of the species--are well suited to Apistogramma tanks. If the chosen tank is a 30g, at 30 inches/75cm length by 12 inches/30cm width, hatchetfish in the genus Carnegiella are one option, but not the much larger species in Gasteropelecus or Thoracocharax. You would want 9-12 of the species such as Carnegiella strigata (the Marble), C. marthae, or C. myersi. In the pencilfish, Nannostomus eques swims at an oblique angle at the surface among floating plants, and is fine with the hatchetfish. The Coral Red pencil, N. mortenthaleri, is a beauty; the dwarf pencilfish, N. marginatus, is another option. These are OK with hatchetfish; avoid some of the other species like N. beckfordi and N. trifasciatus, which will fin nip surface fish in their territory, and they are merciless at this. I had to move my N. beckfordi three times to get it in a tank where it did not nip something, and my group of N. trifasciatus had to be put in with them when i spotted them bullying the hatchetfish.
 
Generally, if you intend a pair of Apistogramma with the intention of raising fry, you do not want cories; being nocturnal, they will eat the eggs at night when the parent cichlids are not able to defend them. If the eggs clutch should hatch, cories are also very adept at swallowing the fry if they come upon the shoal, and here too the cichlid mother is unable to fend off cories. However, the pygmy and dwarf cory species are less likely to go after eggs, and I doubt very much they would even want to try with the fry.

Hatchetfish and pencilfish--some of the species--are well suited to Apistogramma tanks. If the chosen tank is a 30g, at 30 inches/75cm length by 12 inches/30cm width, hatchetfish in the genus Carnegiella are one option, but not the much larger species in Gasteropelecus or Thoracocharax. You would want 9-12 of the species such as Carnegiella strigata (the Marble), C. marthae, or C. myersi. In the pencilfish, Nannostomus eques swims at an oblique angle at the surface among floating plants, and is fine with the hatchetfish. The Coral Red pencil, N. mortenthaleri, is a beauty; the dwarf pencilfish, N. marginatus, is another option. These are OK with hatchetfish; avoid some of the other species like N. beckfordi and N. trifasciatus, which will fin nip surface fish in their territory, and they are merciless at this. I had to move my N. beckfordi three times to get it in a tank where it did not nip something, and my group of N. trifasciatus had to be put in with them when i spotted them bullying the hatchetfish.
Thank you, I really appreciate your help.
 
I added a cave I got when I bought my aquarium in my tank. Will it release chemicals from the paint they they use to make it? I hope I can keep it, I love to see my fish interact with it. My biggest pearl gourami even went in the cave lol.
 

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I added a cave I got when I bought my aquarium in my tank. Will it release chemicals from the paint they they use to make it? I hope I can keep it, I love to see my fish interact with it. My biggest pearl gourami even went in the cave lol.

If it was sold as an aquarium decoration, it will be safe for a fish tank. Any decor not specifically intended for an aquarium can be risky, and decor intended for reptiles and other dry enclosure animals should never be put in the tank.
 
If it was sold as an aquarium decoration, it will be safe for a fish tank. Any decor not specifically intended for an aquarium can be risky, and decor intended for reptiles and other dry enclosure animals should never be put in the tank.
Ok perfect thank you, if I find a wood that has a cave kind of shape I will replace it so it looks very natural. For now I think the whiptail will like it.
 

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