Nano tank, planted, fishless cycle + Pics

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Which country are you in?

In the UK, Ebay and Amazon sell ammonia, including Dr Tims One & Only ammonium chloride.
 
Try Boots for pure ammonia.

The bottled bacteria are hit and miss depending on make/ use by date/ how they’ve been stored. They don’t “make safe” but can eliminate ammonia and shorten the cycling, you still see nitrite. It could be termed a ‘soft cycle’. With one fish and lots of plants I’d consider it as long as you are prepared to do the 50%+ water changes 2-3 times a week. I’ve had results with ‘ Fluval cycle’. Members have advocated Tetra safe start Plus and other forums recommend DrTim aquatics One and Only bacteria.

An alternative is to pinch some established filter media from a friend and stuff it in your filter.
 
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I've gone for Dr Tim's, seems legit and reasonably priced.

Anyway, just out of curiosity I tested the pH today.

The pH of my tank water is around 8.0 to 8.2. The raw tap water I tested was around 7.0.

The only difference in the aquarium water is the gravel, which I rinsed thoroughly, the fact it's been dechlorinated and also the temperature. I'm guessing the gravel is the most likely culprit?

I'll do a 50% water change later to see if it makes a difference. I need the pH around 7.0.
 
Bear in mind that the ammonium chloride solution is a different strength from the usual 9.5% ammonia solution. If there are instructions on the bottle for how much to dose to get a certain ppm, make sure you add only enough to get 3 ppm in your tank.


Do you have any unused gravel? If not take a bit from the tank and wash it. Then set up two tubs, one with gravel and tap water and the other with just tap water. Test both straight away, then 24 hours later, then a week later. The tub with just water is the control to see how much any pH change is due to the water standing, and compare that to the pH of the tub with gravel.
 
Do you have any unused gravel?

That was a good idea Essjay but no, I don't. I'll change some water and see what the pH is and see how it changes over time.

I have a mole in the local water authority though and he reckons the pH is around 8.5. (Edit- it's not. I checked the loc water report. It's 8.0 which isn't as bad but still too high for a Betta).

So it looks like I'm after a safe, low cost acid to add the water with each change!
 
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Changing your pH will cause too much instability in the water chemistry and damage the fish. Follow Essjay’s advice to ascertain if the gravel is raising the pH so you know what you’re working with.
 
I usually don't buy "Fake" bacteria, because I don't like messing with the water chemistry, but it's the OP's choice....:)
 
So it looks like I'm after a safe, low cost acid to add the water with each change!
No don't do this, if your water has a high alkalinity (KH) it will buffer the acid you add and cause your pH to yoyo. Fish need it stable, Despite what your fish store may tell you there is no correlation between pH and hardness. Betta like their water on the soft side, as long as they have that pH does not matter. The test you are interested in is general hardness (GH). The info may be on your water company's website, or your mole could find out. We do need the number as well as the unit because there are several differnt scales in common use.
 
Even if you don't have any unused gravel you can still take some from the tank, wash it and test that. You don't need much, if you have a couple of empty yoghurt pots you need enough for half an inch in the bottom of one of them, then fill both to the top with tap water and leave them to stand somewhere.
 
Hi guys, thanks for your help and suggestions.

The tapwater in my area is fairly soft at 23mg/l of Ca. We don't use GH here, not really sure if that's worth converting. But it is moderately soft.

Do you think that will be fine for a Betta, when the pH is around 8.4? All the care sheets state 7.0. There are two stores nearby selling them, their water is the same supply as mine. But we all know not to trust LFS.

Cheers
 
23 mg/l Ca converts to 3.2 dH and 57 ppm (those are the two units used in fish keeping) so your water is soft. That is fine for a betta, and hardness is more important than pH as long as the pH is stable.
 
23 mg/l Ca converts to 3.2 dH and 57 ppm (those are the two units used in fish keeping) so your water is soft. That is fine for a betta, and hardness is more important than pH as long as the pH is stable.

Thank you Essjay :)

You guys are so helpful. Respect.
 
Just a quick update.

Water pH seems to be stable ish at 7.8. Local supply is meant to be around 8.2 but is coming out the tap closer to 7.2.

It's been 6 days since I dosed with 3ppm ammonia. I'm now at 0.75ppm but no nitrites yet.

I do have a lovely biofilm on the surface though. Is that beneficial??
 
Here we are so far. Pre plants. The bogwood is still putting tannins into the water even though I stood it in a bucket for 2 days and boiled it for 3 hours.
 

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