My "add And Wait" Fishless Cycle Diary :)

[Tropical_Noobie]

Hello to all who visit my thread

I am new to keeping Tropical fish and would like you Masters out there to keep an eye on me and possibly help out should I mess up.
I have a Rekord 60 (61 x 31 x 36cm)-(68 litres or 18 US Gallons)

I am following rdd1952 "Add and Wait" Fishless cycle method in the Beginners Resource Center and am now posting my results using an API Freshwater Master test kit.

My tap water results using the API Freshwater Master test kit are as follows:

pH:7.2 - 7.4 I would say as it is in between.
Ammoina: 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 40 ppm
KH 40.43 ppm

Tank water results 24 hrs in after adding 3.53ml of ammonia as recommended using the Calcuator:

Time: 00.00 Date:27 April 2010

Ammonia: 4.0 ppm - 5.00 ppm

 

[jpeterson]

I would suggest lowering the temp down to around 78-80f, 86f is a bit to high.

 

[waterdrop]

I agree 86F might be too high but I like 84F/29C as the perfect "bacterial growing soup" temperature. Have you found temperatures above 80F to not grow the autotrophic bacteria well jpeterson?

~~waterdrop~~

 

[Tropical_Noobie]

Thanks for the Tip, I have just knocked the Temp down a touch

 

[jpeterson]

Well tbh I am just setting up my self but know a few things. I have had a few probs with my tank in and was going to try PM you to ask about them if that would be ok?

 

[Tropical_Noobie]

Of course you can Jamie, I too am very new and perhaps we can learn bits and peices from each other.
Clint.

 

[Tropical_Noobie]

Hi a quick question if someone can answer please ?

Should I be testing for both pH and pH high during my fishless cycle ?
Thanks for looking
Clint.

 

[jpeterson]

You should be testing for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and PH. The best thing to get for testing while cycling is the "API master tester for freshwater".

 

[Tropical_Noobie]

You should be testing for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and PH. The best thing to get for testing while cycling is the "API master tester for freshwater".

Hi Jamie,

I am almost two days in to my Fishless cycle and following rdd1952 "Add and Wait" Fishless cycle method in the Beginners Resource Center (If you look at my first post mate)( No need to test for Nitrite, Nitrates just yet!) I have been looking around and noticed that some other members test for pH and pH high during there cycle.
rdd1952 has only mentioned testing for pH, so I am trying to find out should I test for both pH and pH high.

Thanks for your input,
Clint.

 

[OldMan47]

As you say, testing for anything besides pH and ammonia for the first week is probably a waste of time. Until the ammonia starts to drop, there will be no nitrites and until the nitrites start to drop, there will be no more nitrates than the tap water has. The problem with waiting for the nitrites to drop is that during the nitrite spike you will not be able to measure the actual nitrite value so you won't know when the nitrites start processing.

 

[jpeterson]

Ahh sorry i miss understood and read wrong.

 

[KAISER]

so I am trying to find out should I test for both pH and pH high.

I think you only need to do the ph high test if the first ph test is at the top of the scale

 

[Tropical_Noobie]

Thanks KAISER!

I just re-read rdd1952 post again

Quote:
Edit: I said that there was no use to test the pH as it didn't matter but after more reading, I have found that isn't entirely true. The optimal pH range for nitrification is about 7.0 to 8.0. As pH gets lower and closer to 6.0, the nitrification process severely slows. Below 6.0, the bacteria basically go dormant and stop reproducing. The bacteria that are present will continue to process ammonia and nitrite but the size of the colony will not grow or will grow very slowly. So in actuality, you do need to test pH to make sure it isn't too low.

So from this Edit I take it that I need to test for pH and pH high ! just incase the pH drops below 7.0 ppm.

Question:

How would I get the pH back up to 7.0 ppm - 8.0 ppm ? Add more Amoina ? If so I take it that I should take out 5 Gallons of the tank water and add a sufficient amount of Ammonia untill I reach 4.00-5.00 ppm and do my maths and add that much Ammoina to the Tank ?

If someone could just confirm this for me ?

Thanks
Clint.

 

[Tropical_Noobie]

My tap water results using the API Freshwater Master test kit are as follows:

pH:7.2 - 7.4 I would say as it is in between.
Ammoina: 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 40 ppm
KH 40.43 ppm

Tank water results 24 hrs in after adding 3.53ml of ammonia as recommended using the Calcuator:

Time: 00.00 Date:27 April 2010

Temp: 84F/29C

Ammonia: 4.0 ppm - 5.00 ppm

Time: 00.00 Date:28 April 2010

Temp: 84F/29C

Ammonia: 4.00 ppm -5.00 ppm

pH: 7.6 ppm at least "off the scale"

pH high: 8.00 ppm

 

[PDSimon]

My tap water results using the API Freshwater Master test kit are as follows:

pH:7.2 - 7.4 I would say as it is in between.
Ammoina: 0 ppm
Nitrite 40 ppm
Nitrate 0 ppm
KH 40.43 ppm

Tank water results 24 hrs in after adding 3.53ml of ammonia as recommended using the Calcuator:

Time: 00.00 Date:27 April 2010

Temp: 84F/29C

Ammonia: 4.0 ppm - 5.00 ppm

Time: 00.00 Date:28 April 2010

Temp: 84F/29C

Ammonia: 4.00 ppm -5.00 ppm

pH: 7.6 ppm at least

pH high: 8.00 ppm

Hi tropical_noobie

Generally you know the where abouts of your pH, so you use the appropriate type. If your unsure, use both. Its best to keep an eye on pH because you're right, if it drops to 6 it can stall the cycle.

At the moment its ok at 7.2(edit: ~7.8), just keep an eye on it. Although it is lower, changing the pH is only really needed if you have a pH crash. Adding ammonia will not raise the pH as far as I know, even if it does there are much better ways.

At the moment you just want to be testing for ammonia and pH, it helps to keep all your results on your first post so they're easily comparable by other members. When your ammonia starts to drop, nitrites will appear. Your ammonia might not drop for weeks yet though! It varies a lot from tank to tank.

at this stage, only top of your ammonia when it reaches 0 and top it up by 5ppm (or 4ppm if you prefer it being on the api test card).