Moving Old Tank To New Tank?

[Smells a bit fishy]

Yeh API one of the best. Good choice. Ok ammonia are too high. Don't worry about medians they won't get better with water that high in ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia and nitrites must be 0 for the fish to be healthy. Take another test and let us know what the reading is, but at 1ppm of both you will need to do a huge water change, 90% will just about get it to safe levels. However you will need to do daily water changes to keep the levels down to less than 0.25. So a reading of 1ppm, if you do a 50% water change this will bring it down to 0.5. So a 90% will bring it down to 0.1 ish. So test the water daily and do sufficient water changes to brung down to less than 0.25. Does that make sence?

Also putting your fish in a larger tank will dilute the amount of ammonia. E.g if your fish are producing 1ppm per day in a 50 litre tank, in a 500 litre tank it will be producing .1ppm.

I hope that makes sense. If not I will try and explain it again.

Let me know how you get on

 

[fishman/ashley]

Yeh API one of the best. Good choice. Ok ammonia are too high. Don't worry about medians they won't get better with water that high in ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia and nitrites must be 0 for the fish to be healthy. Take another test and let us know what the reading is, but at 1ppm of both you will need to do a huge water change, 90% will just about get it to safe levels. However you will need to do daily water changes to keep the levels down to less than 0.25. So a reading of 1ppm, if you do a 50% water change this will bring it down to 0.5. So a 90% will bring it down to 0.1 ish. So test the water daily and do sufficient water changes to brung down to less than 0.25. Does that make sence?

Also putting your fish in a larger tank will dilute the amount of ammonia. E.g if your fish are producing 1ppm per day in a 50 litre tank, in a 500 litre tank it will be producing .1ppm.

I hope that makes sense. If not I will try and explain it again.

Let me know how you get on

as im changin tanks i wont have to do the change yet?


soo ill have to do a water change daily then cool just so i know i will test it daily too befor or after the change? i gess befor?

so the meds are a wast of time too? lol what a joke they are lol

aswell cant thank you enuth ill keep up with water changes and when im working the oher half can do it lol

 

[fishman/ashley]

atlast some sence i can take in ahaha im of to bed talk tomorrow cant thank you enuth

 

[Smells a bit fishy]

No worries at all. The mess are useful. keep them for after you have got the levels constantly safe levels and if doesnt clear up then start using them. But good water is the most important thing right now. Also for the mess to be effective you have to remove and carbon pads from your filter (black pads).

But for now don't worry about that, as removing anything from the filter will cause more problems than what it will solve.

Once again no worries and hope you sleep well

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Smells fishy got it right.

Water changes are the most important part of a fish-in cycle. You must do as big or as frequent a water change as necessary to keep the levels below 0.25ppm. The larger tank will help you in the fish-in cycle, as the larger volume of water will give the ammonia created by the fish more volume to dissipate into and keep the levels much more tolerable for the fish. Folks are worried about stressing the fish with moving them in the middle of a cycle, but are missing the stress they are currently under in regards to the ammonia/nitrite levels in their current situation.



I will use an example from my own situation. I had been cycling a 10 gallon tank with ammonia. It took only 1.5mL to get a 4ppm solution. I am now cycling a 56 gallon tank, and it takes 8.5 mL to create that same 4ppm concentration. What that means is that if this was a fish-in cycle, it would take 5 times more waste produced by the fish before they would achieve that same concentration, and would give the fishkeeper 5 times more time to see the problem before it gets as severe.


Long story short - move the fish and ALL the media into the bigger tank and continue to do large water changes when necessary to keep levels are an appropriate level. Once that tank is fully cycled, you can always move some media back to the other tank to use it for quarantine, hospital, fry, etc. when necessary. The rule for borrowing media from an established filter is to never take more than 1/3 of the total. In your case, you are moving all your fish, so it makes the most sense to move all your media with it. (Fill in the extra space in the filter with brand new media to increase the surface area available for the bacteria to colonize. Put your mature media first in the line, and the new media later in the process, so that if any bacteria come free, they can attach to the new media.

 

[fishman/ashley]

ammonia was higher today i have been changing the watter 4 times only takeing ten percent out as i have a platy in there giveing birth im trying to save the babys there is only one at mo she aint let go of the rest hopeing she aint already eat them or died ect ammonia as stands still 1.0 im going to carry on changeing now wish me look

 

[Tizer]

good look

 

[fishman/ashley]

at 0.50 still going to carry one changeing

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Stick with it... You might be better served with larger water changes than just 10%.

 

[fishman/ashley]

i cant there a platie in a net giveing birth well holding on to em i recon she is flapping in one spot trying i think

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Not to sound callous, but the bigger concern here is the ammonia levels. You would be better served releasing her to the rest of the tank, and just doing larger changes. If there is any type of plants - moss is great for this - the fry can hide in there and stay protected. The platy will have more fry, if she survives the cycle. Your focus should be on the cycle right now, and not the fry.


A 10% water change will only drop 1ppm ammonia to 0.9ppm... Another 10% will change it to 0.81ppm, another 10% to 0.72ppm, then .63, .54, .45, .36, .27, .18 (so, you would have to do 9 10% water changes to drop the level to a level that is even remotely reasonable for the fish to survive without long term damage. Meanwhile, if you did one 80% water change, the level would drop to about the same level in a single change, and you would remove and replace less water in the end.



That's what I would do, if I were in your situation.

 

[fishman/ashley]

got wife to hold net did a bigger change with a buckett and a wash bowl to fill now testing

 

[fishman/ashley]

is now beelow 0.25 few! and yes i will take her out if i need to thanks for the advice again...... iv been strugerling to get my new tank to right temp and i hae had to do this to save the poor buggers but think i mite have nailed it will wait and see then move them........... sods law eh lol fish come first i agree

 

[fishman/ashley]

think she eat all her fry did i do something roung?

 

[Smells a bit fishy]

I'm afraid they do eat their fry, just one of those things. My Molly had fry not sure when, I saw one yesterday to watch it getting eaten by my angel. But they eat them for a number if reasons. Main one is that they get very hungry after giving birth.