i thought I was done! What the..

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WHAT!? A 100% WATER CHANGE!? What the heck... I'm no expert but ive never heard to do that, EVER
at the end of a fishless cycling, you need to remove the predicted very high level of nitrate which are a result of bb converting the nitrites to nitrates which occurs during cycling.
 
at the end of a fishless cycling, you need to remove the predicted very high level of nitrate which are a result of bb converting the nitrites to nitrates which occurs during cycling.
But if someone has live plants... Cant the plants "eat" the nitrates?
 
Well you could test for nitrates at the completion of cycling and chances are they will be very high...like 100 ppm or so.
 
Well you could test for nitrates at the completion of cycling and chances are they will be very high...like 100 ppm or so.
Ok, thank you for this information...
 
But if someone has live plants... Cant the plants "eat" the nitrates?
My nitrates are under 10, should i still do a WC? And i do have plants.. I have java moss, java fern, bacopa, water wisteria, and something that looks like a cabomba but not sure lol
 
Nitrates are probably low as you did some wc already...but i would still do a large wc and then add fish fairly soon if your cycle is completed. Did you do a test of a full dose of ammonia to see if nitrates and ammonia are at 0 within 24 hours? If so, you are cycled and can do a large water change (use dechlorinator if using tap water ) and then add the fish. You will not lose your cylce if the tank has properly cycled.
What dose of ammonia did you do as final test? If 2 or 3 ppm and if levels are at 0 within 24 hours, you can add your full stocking of fish. What fish and how many are you planning on stocking?
 
Nitrates are probably low as you did some wc already...but i would still do a large wc and then add fish fairly soon if your cycle is completed. Did you do a test of a full dose of ammonia to see if nitrates and ammonia are at 0 within 24 hours? If so, you are cycled and can do a large water change (use dechlorinator if using tap water ) and then add the fish. You will not lose your cylce if the tank has properly cycled.
What dose of ammonia did you do as final test? If 2 or 3 ppm and if levels are at 0 within 24 hours, you can add your full stocking of fish. What fish and how many are you planning on stocking?
According to dr tims ammonia dosage my full dose (after gravel and decorations) is 80 drops. I didnt check the ammonia level yet but I dosed 60 the last time when i dosed and after 24 hrs both ammonia and nitrite went 0 and nitrate about 6-8

This time I dosed 50 drops!

also i have 2 mollies in my 10g tank right now and im planning to get three more females
 
But if someone has live plants... Cant the plants "eat" the nitrates?
Yes they can, but this thread is all about the artificial, chemical and mathematical model of 'fishless' cycling and doesn't take plants into account.
For some reason, still not appreciated by Yours Truly, this is the preferred cycling method promoted by Forum Mods and some members. ;)
 
It's the method we prefer for those people who don't have, and don't intend to have live plants or just a couple of live plants (not enough for a plant cycle) The only other alternative in this case is a fish-in cycle, something which should be avoided, so we tell them about fishless cycling. When newcomers to the hobby want live plants, we help them with that rather than fishless cycling.
 
It's the method we prefer for those people who don't have, and don't intend to have live plants or just a couple of live plants (not enough for a plant cycle) The only other alternative in this case is a fish-in cycle, something which should be avoided, so we tell them about fishless cycling. When newcomers to the hobby want live plants, we help them with that rather than fishless cycling.
I'm always curious about that 'we'. ;)
 

I'm finding a serious contradiction here, given the vast majority actually have plants and support planted tanks and even do so when cycling.
 

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