How can I fight ich with no meds?

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wtusa17

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I have ich in my planted tank and donā€™t want to use meds. I turned up the heater to 86. What else can I do?
 
You do not need anything besides increased heat, most times anyway. Keeping the temperature at 86F (30C) or a tad higher for two weeks should deal with ich (and velvet too for that matter).

In particularly stubborn cases--and I have once had this--adding salt may be necessary. But salt can affect some plants, and it will affect fish especially soft water species, so it should be a last resort and only after two weeks of heat fails. But it is unlikely to fail in the vast majority of cases.

Medications that allegedly "treat" ich should never, and I mean never, be used. Many of them do not work as well as increasing the temperature, and some will seriously harm certain fish. I do not think it is any stretch to say that more aquarists have unknowingly killed fish treating them for ich than there are fish that have died from ich itself. If heat alone does not work, salt is still a much safer second step than any of the chemical concoctions no matter what the claims of the manufacturers.

Ich is caused by stress. The ich parasite may be present (it likely is in many of our tanks) but healthy fish are easily able to deal with it. Clean water, avoiding anything causing stress to fish, is a great preventative.
 
You do not need anything besides increased heat, most times anyway. Keeping the temperature at 86F (30C) or a tad higher for two weeks should deal with ich (and velvet too for that matter).

In particularly stubborn cases--and I have once had this--adding salt may be necessary. But salt can affect some plants, and it will affect fish especially soft water species, so it should be a last resort and only after two weeks of heat fails. But it is unlikely to fail in the vast majority of cases.

Medications that allegedly "treat" ich should never, and I mean never, be used. Many of them do not work as well as increasing the temperature, and some will seriously harm certain fish. I do not think it is any stretch to say that more aquarists have unknowingly killed fish treating them for ich than there are fish that have died from ich itself. If heat alone does not work, salt is still a much safer second step than any of the chemical concoctions no matter what the claims of the manufacturers.

Ich is caused by stress. The ich parasite may be present (it likely is in many of our tanks) but healthy fish are easily able to deal with it. Clean water, avoiding anything causing stress to fish, is a great preventative.
Thanks. How often should I do water changes? This happened bc I fell in love with a fish at petsmart and I have now learned my lesson. Iā€™m trying to setup a cheap 10 gallon quarantine tank so this never happens again.
 
Thanks. How often should I do water changes? This happened bc I fell in love with a fish at petsmart and I have now learned my lesson. Iā€™m trying to setup a cheap 10 gallon quarantine tank so this never happens again.

I always do a major water change before starting any "treatment," as clean water alone does benefit fish and strengthens their ability to deal with negatives. I do a 70-75% water change, and when refilling the tank I increase the water temperature a couple of degrees. This will not harm the fish as it is not sudden and it is only maybe 3 or 4 degrees. I turn up the heater to finish the job and over the next 24 hours the temperature should reach 86F/30C or slightly above. For the next few days, no disturbance (avoids further stress) and feed normally but minimally; no additives other than the water conditioner, again to lessen stress. I do another water change after seven days from the first, and this time obviously the replacement water will be at the higher temperature so as not to shock the fish.

At the end of the second week, another water change and this time with a slightly cooler temperature to partially lower the tank water temperature back to the norm. But just a couple of degrees, again to avoid shocking the fish and bringing back the ich. Turn down the heater to normal and the tank can cool naturally over the next day or so.
 
I always do a major water change before starting any "treatment," as clean water alone does benefit fish and strengthens their ability to deal with negatives. I do a 70-75% water change, and when refilling the tank I increase the water temperature a couple of degrees. This will not harm the fish as it is not sudden and it is only maybe 3 or 4 degrees. I turn up the heater to finish the job and over the next 24 hours the temperature should reach 86F/30C or slightly above. For the next few days, no disturbance (avoids further stress) and feed normally but minimally; no additives other than the water conditioner, again to lessen stress. I do another water change after seven days from the first, and this time obviously the replacement water will be at the higher temperature so as not to shock the fish.

At the end of the second week, another water change and this time with a slightly cooler temperature to partially lower the tank water temperature back to the norm. But just a couple of degrees, again to avoid shocking the fish and bringing back the ich. Turn down the heater to normal and the tank can cool naturally over the next day or so.
Ok thanks
 
Keeping the temperature at 86F+ always works. I suggest doing daily water changes. 30%+ per day is probably the best way to go.
 
The only problem with daily water changes is that you will be adding stress to the fish. Stress weakens the immune system (this applies to humans and all animals, not just fish, and it is significant). At the start of the "treatment" you want a major water change, always; this cleans the water better than daily changes no matter the issues.

I did miss a couple things previously, which this reminded me of. During the water changes, vacuum the substrate well. It is thought that this can remove some of the dormant cysts. Additionally, removing the organics will improve the water more regardless.

Second thing is to increase surface disturbance. This is easily achieved by adjusting the filter return so thee surface is agitated. This allows a better gas exchange, as the warmer the water the less oxygen it can hold, and that will also stress fish.
 
The only problem with daily water changes is that you will be adding stress to the fish. Stress weakens the immune system (this applies to humans and all animals, not just fish, and it is significant).

I did miss a couple things previously, which this reminded me of. During the water changes, vacuum the substrate well. It is thought that this can remove some of the dormant cysts. Additionally, removing the organics will improve the water more regardless.

Second thing is to increase surface disturbance. This is easily achieved by adjusting the filter return so thee surface is agitated. This allows a better gas exchange, as the warmer the water the less oxygen it can hold, and that will also stress fish.
I have an air stone in there atm. So one big like 75% today and then in a week shorter do another big one?
 
I have an air stone in there atm. So one big like 75% today and then in a week shorter do another big one?

Air stones do not do this as effectively compared to more vigorous surface disturbance. But if there is no filter beyond an air stone, get it as high as you can.

Yes on the water changes.
 
Air stones do not do this as effectively compared to more vigorous surface disturbance. But if there is no filter beyond an air stone, get it as high as you can.

Yes on the water changes.
Ok would one big one today and one big one on maybe Sunday?
 
I donā€™t want to hurt my plants. Will it?
To answer this question, what type of plants do you have? Many of the basic aquatic plants are actually tolerant of salt, even in brackish applications. But not all!
 

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