High Ph ?

CarloUK

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Hi

As mentioned before I have the 46L Fluval Edge tank set at 26 degrees C
Its now 4 week old and has 2 small Ballon Mollys ( in for 2 weeks) and 4 Rumneynose tetras in for 3 days
I carried out about a 15% water change 4 days ago

All seems fine and dip slides show a PH of 7.2 for the last 2 weeks.

I have now invested in the API chemical water test kit and just done my first tests of:
PH 8.2 done with rge PH high. When i did it with the PH low it inficated blue +7.6
Amonia was 0.4
NO2 was 1.0
NO3 was 20

The chemical kit is showing 8.2. Do I have a problem . What shold I do. Could it be an error, maybe I should retest

Replies greatly appriciated
Thanks Carlo
 
Just be sure that when you take the sample water from the tank:
 
1. Rinse the measuring tube/syringe a few times in the tank water to get rid of any contaminants.
2. Don't put your finger/thumb on the end of the tube and shake it, as this will take acids/alkaline from your finger.
3. Always test twice to confirm your results, and if they conflict then test 3 times.
 
Just my opinion from personal experience.
 
Good luck 
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Most likely the dip strip tests are very inaccurate and the api test is nearer your true ph
 
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Lol I nearly had a heart attack when I saw the purple tube, then realised it's your high pH not nitrite!
 
Have you added any rocks or ornaments to the tank that may have raised the pH?
 
The PH is fine as long as it stays stable.  You need to get that Nitrite down urgently!!!! 1ppm is deadly to fish and rummynose tetras are really sensitive!!
 
Edit: Slightly off topic but this tank is a bit too small for rummynose tetras, they like a lot of swimming space, also you really need at least 6.
 
Yeah the more I look at it, the more it looks like the purple tube is nitrite - just to be clear, from top to bottom we're looking at high pH then ammonia then nitrite and nitrate?  Agree that you need a big water change to get that nitrite down.
 
daizeUK said:
Lol I nearly had a heart attack when I saw the purple tube, then realised it's your high pH not nitrite!
 
Have you added any rocks or ornaments to the tank that may have raised the pH?
 
The red one is the high Ph @ 8.2
The purple one is Nitrite @ 1ppm
 
Not added anything since start but there are plenty of plastic plants and an ornament
 
 
Oops I put the tubes in the wrong order
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The tubes don't look in the wrong order...You said in your first post that nitrites are 1ppm...I would do a very large water change ASAP otherwise you will start finding dead fish
 
Ok will do a 25% water change. Cant understand why they are high as I hardly feed them (small amount every 3 days)
 
You really need to do more like a 75% (or more) water change as you need that nitrite level down to below 0.25ppm.  A 25% water change will still leave you with 0.75ppm of nitrite which is deadly.  Your tank is not cycled so you are doing a more difficult fish in cycle, you need to be doing water changes every day as there is not enough bacteria to keep up with the bioload even if your not feeding that often.
 
It will need to be more than a 25% water change; you need to get the nitrite to as near zero as possible.
 
I would start by doing 75 or 80% and then retest; if it's still not zero, then do another one, the same size.
 
Fish produce ammonia all the time; mostly as a byproduct of respiration; the nitrite producing bacteria will be eating the ammonia and producing a constant 'stream' of nitrite, whether you're feeding the fish or not (although keeping feeding to a minimum during cycling does help the levels getting too high).
 
You do have other options here besides massive water changes which will then be happening a lot.
 
The very best thing to do is to add bacteria to the tank. In terms of bottled bacteria, Dr. Tim's One and Only or Tetra's Safe Start will both help a lot and fairly fast. Next, finding somebody to give you some media or substrate from a cycled tank will also add bacteria. The more you can get, the better. Basically, this approach solves the problem by adding the very bacteria you are now working to grow.
 
Next, the cause of the problem in your tank is the fish. they are making the ammonia which turns to nitrite etc.. You should not have added the tetras when you did. So failing to be able to follow the above suggestions, the next best thing is to get the tetras out. The store may take them back for credit. You can tell them you still want them back, but in a few weeks. otherwise maybe you can find a member here or a friend with a tank who can hold them for you. The idea is you will reduce the ammonia being created in the tank.
 
Because of your pH. you have minimal wiggle room on your ammonia. At .4 ppm in your tank there is .036 ppm of NH3, the toxic form of ammonia. The other part is not a huge deal for the fish for the short term. The red line for the NH3 is .05 ppm. Because I hate trusting test kits and because folks new to fish keeping tend to make mistakes, I would not want to see your ammonia level go higher and I would monitor the fish for signs of distress. If they show any, then you must do at least a 50% water change. If the ammonia rises, you need to do the same.
 
This does nothing to help with the nitrite side of things. Fortunately, there is a way to block the effect of nitrite inside fish which does not affect the cycling process because it has no effect on the nitrite. One can add chloride at 10 times the concentration of nitrite to do this. And chloride is 2/3 of good old salt, aka sodium chloride.
 
But here is the thing to all this, using this approach you can get through fish in cycling faster and likely without harming fish. But you need to do the math and a bit of measuring etc. You need to know what to look for in the fish re being in distress. You need to learn a bunch of stuff to pull it off right. The other option with fish in is that you will be changing tons of water for some time with no guarantee that will it prevent any harm to the fish either.
 
So, if you can not find bacteria, if you do not want to have to learn about a bunch more stuff to do an old fashioned fish in cycle, and if you also are not really enthusiastic about doing lots of big water changes in the coming weeks, your best option is to get all the fish out of the tank and get it cycled without them. A fishless cycle is easier, faster and can not kill any fish if you make a mistake.
 
Whilst I agree with TwoTankAdmin I would ge the Tetras out before adding the salt as they are very sensitive to any changes in water quality, including salt.  As mentioned above, I would try and return the tetras or re-home them.

 
 
214jay said:
Whilst I agree with TwoTankAdmin I would ge the Tetras out before adding the salt as they are very sensitive to any changes in water quality, including salt.  As mentioned above, I would try and return the tetras or re-home them.
Salt ?

I have the Nutrafin Cycle Bacteria in a bottle. This was added as the instructions when i first filled the tank a month ago. Shall I add some ?

Ive done this morning a 25% water change and all the fish look lively. They must be producing Amonia by breathing as ive hardly fed them. As the pet shop man told me i didnt feed for 48hours then i fed lightly.

I will test the water again tonight in case i had any errors in my tests last night.

Thanks for replies
 

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