Help! What is up with my Betta?

Look on the bottle of water conditioner, look to see if it gets rid of chlorine and chloramine, if not, your fish likely also has chlorine poisoning. You will need a dechlorenator to get rid of the chlorine if the conditioner does not. I once again recommend Prime by Seachem to get rid of chlorine and chloramine, as well as helping your ammonia problem. Unfortunately, people at the pet store often have little to no idea about their department weather that be fish, birds, mammals, reptiles etc.
"Unfortunately, people at the pet store often have little to no idea about their department weather that be fish, birds, mammals, reptiles etc."

Truer words, never spoken....they are there to sell things, not give good advice
 
"Unfortunately, people at the pet store often have little to no idea about their department weather that be fish, birds, mammals, reptiles etc."

Truer words, never spoken....they are there to sell things, not give good advice
Unfortunately, yeah... :(
 
Thank you both for all your help, is there a specific type of tank you would recommend for a 2.5 gallon tank with a filter? I’m seeing a lot of mixed reviews on just about everything Aqueon, BiOrb, etc.
 
Thank you both for all your help, is there a specific type of tank you would recommend for a 2.5 gallon tank with a filter? I’m seeing a lot of mixed reviews on just about everything Aqueon, BiOrb, etc.
More than welcome.
I don't have any experience with nano tanks, hopefully someone who does will chime in.
Try to buy as many of your supplies as you can online, cheaper than the local stores, and you don't have to leave your dorm.

In the meantime, do daily water changes of about 50% of the tank volume, and use the conditioner you have (what kind is it?) until you can get some Prime.

Be sure to match the tap temp to the tank temp, as closely as possible.
 
I would recommend (In my opinion) something a bit larger like this: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/tanks...p-fin-retreat-aquarium-27504.html?cgid=300129
Its a good size for a betta and isn't to large. My sister current has one set up at her house and its working great. It comes with a filter panel, a light, and a glass lid. All you would need other than that is a heater (Which you can get for like 5 dollars for that size tank) and gravel/ décor which it looks like you already have. That is the smallest size tank that a betta can have without there being to many complications. You could also add some snails in there at some point too. With that aside however, we should focus on the problem at hand. Did you do a 75% water change? If not, do that now and look to see that your water conditioner removes chlorine/chloramine.
 
A single betta would be fine with a three and a half gallon. I wouldn't get anything smaller than a 2.5 gallon, but anything over that will be great. Look for people selling their tanks locally even.

A cheap sponge filter can be bought for around five bucks, will be perfect for a betta since not too much current, but very easy to run and maintain for a beginner fishkeeper. A sponge filter also needs an airpump to run it, they're around ten bucks.

For right now though, @Neleono is right, changing 75% of the water is urgent. Using declorinator and temperature matching the new water to the tank temperature. If the water temp is a big difference, that can shock and kill a fish, so you need a thermometer to make sure the temp matches.
 
I would recommend (In my opinion) something a bit larger like this: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/tanks...p-fin-retreat-aquarium-27504.html?cgid=300129
Its a good size for a betta and isn't to large. My sister current has one set up at her house and its working great. It comes with a filter panel, a light, and a glass lid. All you would need other than that is a heater (Which you can get for like 5 dollars for that size tank) and gravel/ décor which it looks like you already have. That is the smallest size tank that a betta can have without there being to many complications. You could also add some snails in there at some point too. With that aside however, we should focus on the problem at hand. Did you do a 75% water change? If not, do that now and look to see that your water conditioner removes chlorine/chloramine.
I did do the water change. I had to look up the bottle online but it says it gets rid of chlorine and chloramines. It’s the tetra Aquasafe for bettas
 
So I’m going to get a new tank with a filter, (and water test strips) and I’m going to have to cycle the new tank first then. So while that is taking place I just have to keep changing the water in the current tank my fish is in?
 
So I’m going to get a new tank with a filter, (and water test strips) and I’m going to have to cycle the new tank first then. So while that is taking place I just have to keep changing the water in the current tank my fish is in?
Yes, but don't get the paper test strips, get the liquid test kit I linked.
 
I did do the water change. I had to look up the bottle online but it says it gets rid of chlorine and chloramines. It’s the tetra Aquasafe for bettas
Ok, the Aquasafe is a good decorrelator and will work. You will still need a test kit though to make sure that your water is safe.
 
So I’m going to get a new tank with a filter, (and water test strips) and I’m going to have to cycle the new tank first then. So while that is taking place I just have to keep changing the water in the current tank my fish is in?
Yep! Keep up with daily water changes, perhaps twice a day if you can manage that, until you can sort out a larger tank and a filter, and can then do a fish-in cycle, with daily water changes to keep ammonia down and keep the betta safe.

Some people say "we don't keep fish, we keep water" and there's a lot of truth to that! Excellent water quality is the key to healthy fish :)
 
Strips don't test for ammonia and you need to be able to test for ammonia and nitrite. If you don't want to buy a master test kit, buy liquid testers for those two. They are the ones which can kill fish so you need to know if thre's any in the water.
 
So I’m going to get a new tank with a filter, (and water test strips) and I’m going to have to cycle the new tank first then. So while that is taking place I just have to keep changing the water in the current tank my fish is in?
For now, either go to the store or order online and API master freshwater test kit, the new tank that you are planning to get, and also Seachem Prime. You will NEED these things no question or else your fish will likely die. In the meantime, water change water change water change!!! Do a 75% change every day, or 2 30% water changes a day if the 75% is to much work. Because you don't have the API test kit yet, there is no super accurate way of knowing your ammonia level so your just going to have to act like its high (Because it likely is). Even though it might be convincing to get strips because they're easy and cheep... they are inaccurate and in a situation like this a single part off might mean life or death for your fish. Once the API test kit, the new tank, and prime come in or you have bought them. At this point, add the gravel and décor from your old tank, fill up the tank with dechlorinated water, make sure the temp is right, then add in your fish. Next, watch this video on a fish-in-cycle. The guy in the video might be a bit strange but all of the info he's saying is good. Follow the video until you are seeing the results he explains in the video, then you will have a cycled tank for your fish. Also, whatever you do, don't change out the filter on the new tank. It holds all of the good bacteria that keeps your fish alive. Once your tank is cycled, you can make a better filter that helps keep that cycle (Or you can just do it from the beginning if you want). If you have any more questions please ask.

Here's the video on the fish-in-cycle:
Here's the video on making a good filter that holds the cycle:

I hope all of this info will help you to get a new tank and cycle it. Best wishes, Nele.
 
For now, either go to the store or order online and API master freshwater test kit, the new tank that you are planning to get, and also Seachem Prime. You will NEED these things no question or else your fish will likely die. In the meantime, water change water change water change!!! Do a 75% change every day, or 2 30% water changes a day if the 75% is to much work. Because you don't have the API test kit yet, there is no super accurate way of knowing your ammonia level so your just going to have to act like its high (Because it likely is). Even though it might be convincing to get strips because they're easy and cheep... they are inaccurate and in a situation like this a single part off might mean life or death for your fish. Once the API test kit, the new tank, and prime come in or you have bought them. At this point, add the gravel and décor from your old tank, fill up the tank with dechlorinated water, make sure the temp is right, then add in your fish. Next, watch this video on a fish-in-cycle. The guy in the video might be a bit strange but all of the info he's saying is good. Follow the video until you are seeing the results he explains in the video, then you will have a cycled tank for your fish. Also, whatever you do, don't change out the filter on the new tank. It holds all of the good bacteria that keeps your fish alive. Once your tank is cycled, you can make a better filter that helps keep that cycle (Or you can just do it from the beginning if you want). If you have any more questions please ask.

Here's the video on the fish-in-cycle:
Here's the video on making a good filter that holds the cycle:

I hope all of this info will help you to get a new tank and cycle it. Best wishes, Nele.
I got my new tank and the master test kit along with the seachem! Should I test the water he is currently in or just start the process of setting up his new tank and doing fish in cycling?

Edit: I tested his water and here are the results:
 

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