Help Me Get Started With Ferts For My Planted Tank!

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biohazard156

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Hiya,

I have a heavily planted tank that I think so far has worked due to *luck*... I'd like to understand the few problems I've been having with the plants in it and work out a good but simple way for me to help them out.

Lighting is 1 Life-Glo 39W High Output T5 (6,700K) and 1 Power-Glo 39W High output T5. These are 3ft tubes over a 4ft tank. Tank is 4ft x 2ft x 1.5ft. The height of the tank might be an issue for carpeting plants but I don't have any of those. Lights are on for 9 hours a day.

I don't dose anything (though I have some JBL proflora in the house) and I occasionally use flourish root tabs.

I have java fern, crypts (various), bolbitis heudelotti, amazong swords (unhappy ones) and some various anubias, a nymphea lilly, along with some Round Pellia.

The anubias get loads of hard algae on them round the edges, and the bolbitus seems to get a brownish algae over it too. The Java fern seems to skeletonise (and its not just from producing new plants). The crypts are ok, though don't grow mental, just tick along. Swords are the same, not really "thriving".

I'd like some advice on a low maintenance way of improving these issues. I don't want CO2 or the faff associated....just some sort of liquid I can pop in!

Any help appreciated!

Anna
 
Firstly, I'd reduce lighting down to about 6-7 hours as 9 may well be too much. you might find this will help sort this out although you should also consider increasing your flow in the tank. Ideally a planted tank should have a water turnover of about 10x in an hour. I have a filter that does about 4x supplemented with a powerhead that pushes it up to around 11x.

What filter do you have? You could look to getting or extending a spray bar across the length of the tank to help flow or look at a powerhead/wavemaker that will be relatively cheap.

You can also look at getting some ferts. I use salts I mix up myself but they can be added dry. I get them from Aquarium Plant food UK. One set should last the good part of a year! There are also liquids you can buy such as Neutro Plus. JBL also do their own ferts but I switched to the salts option.
 
You can also add liquid CO2 with something like Easy Carbo which can help.
 
Hi! Thanks for your post. I have a Fluval 405 which has an underwater outflow angled pipe (about mid level on the lefthand side which pushes water out forwards aimed about 45o) and an Eheim 2217 with spray bar (at water level on right hand side pushing from back to front of tank). I also have one air driven airstone for water movement on the left hand side too.

I was thinking about another powerhead, but am unsure as to placement to give the best all over flow. I can reduce the lighting time certainly too.

The ferts and how much to add are my main concern. I don't want more algae, and I don't want to end up having to use actual CO2 or to have it too reliant on heavy daily dosing! (don't want much do i??)

Anna
 
That filter should be ok and with an extra Powerhead, i think you'll be there. I'd reduce the lighting time for now and see how you get on. Ferts will always be good for plants and they should have details on the bottle as to how much to use. However, the Estimative Index method of plant feeding actually relies on dosing too much or at least not too little. Your weekly water changes get rid of what you don't really need. Have a look at the link. You don't have to follow the advice to get specific chemicals but this can be a start.
 
You'll probably only need to use CO2 if you up your lighting. As you're not at the moment you should be ok with out CO2 injection.
 
Skeletonising/melting plants + algae = Lack of CO2
I'd remove the airstone, make sure your filters etc aren't breaking the water surface, reduce your lighting and feed with a decent nutrient.

If you go down the EI route probably dose at about 1/3 and if you go with liquid carbon, dose at full strength.

IMO
Lunar Jetman said:
Your weekly water changes get rid of what you don't really need.
I know LJ already uses EI so I'm preaching to the converted, but I think it's important to note that the water change isn't there to get rid of the extra. (an important point for those new to EI, so as notto perpetuate the nutrient algae myth.)
 
SO19Firearms said:
Skeletonising/melting plants + algae = Lack of CO2I'd remove the airstone, make sure your filters etc aren't breaking the water surface, reduce your lighting and feed with a decent nutrient.If you go down the EI route probably dose at about 1/3 and if you go with liquid carbon, dose at full strength.IMO
Your weekly water changes get rid of what you don't really need.
I know LJ already uses EI so I'm preaching to the converted, but I think it's important to note that the water change isn't there to get rid of the extra. (an important point for those new to EI, so as notto perpetuate the nutrient algae myth.)
Sorry, yes SO I was very over simplistic in my reply! Thanks for correcting me.

On another note to the OP, I can also recommend the links in SO19s signature, especially if you're going down the EI/make your own route?
 
the symptoms you are describing sounds exactly like not enough carbon, way to much light and no fert balance "plants need like 17 difffrent macros and micros with trace" in balance in order to grow correctly and fight off algae. your lighting is super intense to not be using co2.
 
once you add ferts you WILL see a insane algae bloom since the nutrient will be available in the water the plants will use it but will use up the naturally occurring carbon and then stop growing probably within hours of light on. this is when the algae will take advantage. what I would do if I were you is look into some floaters I.E frogbit duckweed dwarf water lettuce things like that. these will help reduce the light intencity and use up the free nutrient in the water. they are super fast growers and absorb carbon from the air so they will not compete vs the submerged plants but help them fight off algae.
 
I would gradually reduce your lighting to 6 hours or so when you start to dose with fert. a sudden lighting change will shock the plants and harm them even further. I would reduce by a hour every day or two until you get down to 6 hrs on. Once you reach the 6hour point start using your fert for about a week or so. if you see a algae explosion lessen the photo period. if you end up going to 4 or so hours and still have algae its your intencity not duration. which means get more floaters or some type of diffusion method.
 
then slowly start to raise the light duration to what you would prefer. when you start to see algae taking over within days theres too much light. so more diffusion is needed. hope this helps as I seem to be rambleing at this point
 
P.S Flourish comprehensive is a GREAT balanced liquid fert. I use it in combination with excel and have great results.
 

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