Heaters?....

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london_kev

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I am looking to buy a heater for a 20L nano tank. What is best 25w, 50W, 75w or 100w? My home is not cold now but i am just a little worried for the winter, furthermore what is the tempreture for keeping guppies and cherry shrimps..?
 
25w especially with summer coming.

guppies and cherries will do fine at 23-26C
 
I am looking to buy a heater for a 20L nano tank. What is best 25w, 50W, 75w or 100w? My home is not cold now but i am just a little worried for the winter, furthermore what is the tempreture for keeping guppies and cherry shrimps..?
I have seen that 1 watt per litre is recommend so 25w should be fine.
 
Thank you all. i am looking to buy "sera heaterstat 25w". I dont get how this works, is it on all the time at a certain tempreturer...? or does it turn itself on and off and when it dips below a certain tempreture it will turn on again...?
 
:unsure: cant help you really mate, never heard of it myself :) if you cant find anything online, that would be a sign, at least for me, to look at a better documented alternative.
 
I have a 48l tank, and it came with the filter and all other bits with it, ready to go.
It also came with a 100w heater - not sure if thats overkill for the tank though?!
 
kev for most situations the guideline of 1W per litre is about right, so 25W for 20L tank is perfect. If the difference between your tank temperature and room temperature is large (more than 5 degrees) then I would increase heater power a bit as the tank will lose heat to the room more quickly.

All heaters have a thermostat on them, when the tank is too cold they come on at full power until the tank is warm enough. So if you had a 20L tank and a 300W heater then you risk overshooting and making it too hot because the heater will take a while to sense any increase in temperature and turn off again.
 
My understanding is that there are now some very small heaters (intended for small tanks and/or people on a very tight budget) that are sold without thermostats (can someone confirm this please?) These would be identifiable because there would be no setpoint adjustment (temperature knob.) To me, this would seem pretty bad in that the thing would just stay on all the time, leaving the tank to just follow external temperatures up and down but just at a raised amount, carrying the possibility of overheating.

The traditional aquarium heater (whether internal or external) has a setpoint and thermostat, usually including a small lamp to let you know when it is actively heating. When the tank water temperature is about right, you turn the knob so that the light just barely turns on or off, meaning you want the heater to keep the tank close to this temperature. You then keep checking and adjusting this for a few days to be sure the setpoint is really doing what you want.

The main problem that beginners usually have is mistakenly thinking that the temperature scale numbers on the heater knobs mean something in the real world. Usually they don't. Instead, it is up to you "adjust" the number cap relative to the knob itself so that your setpoint actually matches what your real-world thermometer (a separate thermometer is needed in addition to the heater) is reading, usually across the tank away from the heater.

Sizing a heater to a tank correctly is not only about having enough power to raise the body of water to the correct fish environment given the household environment the tank is put in, but is also about not oversizing the power such that it could cook the fish if the thermostat became stuck in the on position. My understanding is that this happens less now than it did a few decades ago but it still happens occasionally.

Reasonable tank water circulation is another assumption of good aquarium heating of course. The warmed water must be circulated well enough, at least for some species of fish, that they don't spend all their time hanging out next to the heater element. The other side of that coin though is that obviously many natural situations are not heated evenly and many species may enjoy having different temperature spots to swim to (yet another of the hundreds of ways that we -don't- fully know or think through the creation of ideal artificial fish environments in most cases, perhaps.)

~~waterdrop~~
edit: Ah! I think I should have delineated 3 categories of heater control, right? Besides the traditional fully adjustable, there are not only the totally simple resistance heaters but also those with a built-in fixed setpoint giving you no choice of tank temp but still having a thermostat to try and keep the tank at that set number. So we have No Thermostat, Fixed Thermostat and Adjustable Thermostat, right?
 
My understanding is that there are now some very small heaters (intended for small tanks and/or people on a very tight budget) that are sold without thermostats (can someone confirm this please?) These would be identifiable because there would be no setpoint adjustment (temperature knob.) To me, this would seem pretty bad in that the thing would just stay on all the time, leaving the tank to just follow external temperatures up and down but just at a raised amount, carrying the possibility of overheating.

The traditional aquarium heater (whether internal or external) has a setpoint and thermostat, usually including a small lamp to let you know when it is actively heating. When the tank water temperature is about right, you turn the knob so that the light just barely turns on or off, meaning you want the heater to keep the tank close to this temperature. You then keep checking and adjusting this for a few days to be sure the setpoint is really doing what you want.

The main problem that beginners usually have is mistakenly thinking that the temperature scale numbers on the heater knobs mean something in the real world. Usually they don't. Instead, it is up to you "adjust" the number cap relative to the knob itself so that your setpoint actually matches what your real-world thermometer (a separate thermometer is needed in addition to the heater) is reading, usually across the tank away from the heater.

Sizing a heater to a tank correctly is not only about having enough power to raise the body of water to the correct fish environment given the household environment the tank is put in, but is also about not oversizing the power such that it could cook the fish if the thermostat became stuck in the on position. My understanding is that this happens less now than it did a few decades ago but it still happens occasionally.

Reasonable tank water circulation is another assumption of good aquarium heating of course. The warmed water must be circulated well enough, at least for some species of fish, that they don't spend all their time hanging out next to the heater element. The other side of that coin though is that obviously many natural situations are not heated evenly and many species may enjoy having different temperature spots to swim to (yet another of the hundreds of ways that we -don't- fully know or think through the creation of ideal artificial fish environments in most cases, perhaps.)

~~waterdrop~~


Yes, this is correct, I think one of the main tanks is the fluval edge, containing the mentioned heater?
 
OK, I've just added an edit to my post up there. I agree, I think the Fluval Edge is one of those non-adjustables, but I don't know which type. Which is it?

WD
 
I have a 48l tank, and it came with the filter and all other bits with it, ready to go.
It also came with a 100w heater - not sure if thats overkill for the tank though?!

In that case should I be looking for a 50w heater rather then my 100w?
 
OK, I've just added an edit to my post up there. I agree, I think the Fluval Edge is one of those non-adjustables, but I don't know which type. Which is it?

WD

Im pretty sure the Edge has a stuck thermostat at 26c. So, fixed?
 

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