So the test strip on the left is water from my tap. The one on the right is from my aquarium. What’s strange to me is that although I do all of my water changes from the tap, which tests out being very soft, the tests on my aquarium water consistently come out very hard. I don’t understand how this happens. I have multiple plants, two ceramic decorations and do weekly vacuuming and 30% water changes. I can’t seem to be able to keep Angelfish alive for more than a couple of weeks and I fear it’s a water quality issue. Any ideas as to what’s going on??
Hard Water Mystery
- Thread starter Sexy Rexy
- Start date
So the test strip on the left is water from my tap. The one on the right is from my aquarium. What’s strange to me is that although I do all of my water changes from the tap, which tests out being very soft, the tests on my aquarium water consistently come out very hard. I don’t understand how this happens. I have multiple plants, two ceramic decorations and do weekly vacuuming and 30% water changes. I can’t seem to be able to keep Angelfish alive for more than a couple of weeks and I fear it’s a water quality issue. Any ideas as to what’s going on??
kribensis12
I know where you live
Hey! So a couple of recommendations:
1. Ditch your current test kit and purchase a liquid test kit. API Master Freshwater Test Kit is commonly recommended. Much more accurate across the board. Secondly, purchase this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/?tag=ff0d01-20
Those testers will give you kH and gH.
On to the next problem - why is there a difference from tap to your aquarium? Simply put, kH is the amount of carbonates and bicarbonates in your water while gH is the amount of calcium and magnesium in the water.
These will both naturally increase and/or decrease depending on what is in your tank. Gravel, rocks, etc. will play an important role - along with food etc. All of the additions to a tank, large or small, make an impact on your water.
Tank raised Angelfish are, overall, very hardy. While naturally they need a low pH. kH and gH to thrive this is not the case in the aquarium trade - though doubtless they would prefer and thrive if given those conditions. I would look to see if it's your source of fish that is the issue or the issue is stemming from something else such as ammonia, nitrite or nitrates in your tank.
1. Ditch your current test kit and purchase a liquid test kit. API Master Freshwater Test Kit is commonly recommended. Much more accurate across the board. Secondly, purchase this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SNCHMA/?tag=ff0d01-20
Those testers will give you kH and gH.
On to the next problem - why is there a difference from tap to your aquarium? Simply put, kH is the amount of carbonates and bicarbonates in your water while gH is the amount of calcium and magnesium in the water.
These will both naturally increase and/or decrease depending on what is in your tank. Gravel, rocks, etc. will play an important role - along with food etc. All of the additions to a tank, large or small, make an impact on your water.
Tank raised Angelfish are, overall, very hardy. While naturally they need a low pH. kH and gH to thrive this is not the case in the aquarium trade - though doubtless they would prefer and thrive if given those conditions. I would look to see if it's your source of fish that is the issue or the issue is stemming from something else such as ammonia, nitrite or nitrates in your tank.
Thanks Kribensis,
I have both test kits and although results vary slightly between the two, the differing results remain the same. I rinse and wash the decorations regularly but have yet to do so with the gravel. That will be my next step. What’s truly baffling with my Angels is that some will die after looking completely health after being in the tank for months and some will die within a week or two. I love having them but until I can find the problem, I’ll have to refrain from restocking them. As far as the overall water quality of the tank water, all but the hardness and alkalinity seem to be ok whether I use the strips or the API MASTER kit. Having such a huge disparity between my ultra soft tap water and my very hard aquarium water is an issue I need to tackle. Hopefully cleaning or switching out the substrate will help.
I have no way to tell the actual difference because the photo shows the two strips but no reference for the colour/number.
As @kribensis12 mentioned, the likely cause is something calcareous in the tank, and this is usually the substrate, rock, or sometimes other decor. I also concur with him that the angelfish should not have issues with this, though again I've no idea as to the actual difference and if significant this could causse serious problems for the fish.
No mention is made of pH, does this change? Remember to out-gas any CO2 in tap water before testing that for pH (not needed with tank water).
As @kribensis12 mentioned, the likely cause is something calcareous in the tank, and this is usually the substrate, rock, or sometimes other decor. I also concur with him that the angelfish should not have issues with this, though again I've no idea as to the actual difference and if significant this could causse serious problems for the fish.
No mention is made of pH, does this change? Remember to out-gas any CO2 in tap water before testing that for pH (not needed with tank water).
@kribensis12 gave solid advice. I would add buy a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter and measure TDS before it goes in the aquarium. Measuring TDS in the tank doesn't tell you much because decaying plant matter, fish waste and uneaten food factor in. I mix reverse osmosis water with my tap water to come out about 75 PPM TDS prior to the water going in the tank at water changes. I also add 4 teaspoons aquarium salt per 10 gallons but that's a whole different topic. The salt does not contribute to water hardness.
But, to your Angelfish problem, I recently acquired 5 Neon Tetras, have had them in my water since June 12th and they just came alive. Brighter colors, better appetites and much more vigorous. I think that Angelfish would respond to my conditions just as well as the Neons did coming from similar waters.
Anyway, everybody does things differently and people have great success doing all kinds of different things. Be patient. Watch your fish a lot and don't be hasty to make radical changes too quickly.
Good luck to you.
But, to your Angelfish problem, I recently acquired 5 Neon Tetras, have had them in my water since June 12th and they just came alive. Brighter colors, better appetites and much more vigorous. I think that Angelfish would respond to my conditions just as well as the Neons did coming from similar waters.
Anyway, everybody does things differently and people have great success doing all kinds of different things. Be patient. Watch your fish a lot and don't be hasty to make radical changes too quickly.
Good luck to you.
PH is relatively the same at around 7.1 using either test. When you say out gas would that refer to letting the water sit for a while before testing? I should have mentioned that both nitrates and nitrites are in good shape. It’s the alkalinity and overall hardness that are out of whack.
Tap water can contain a lot of dissolved CO2 and this causes acidic water and a lower pH. Letting a glass of water sit 24 hours will outgas the CO2, as it dissipates out of water in such conditions. Or you can briskly agitate the water before testing, this can work. Some say the first method is better.
What is the actual GH difference? And do you know if the substrate is calcareous?
I’ll check the GH when I get home. The substrate in hard , smooth and non-calcareius.
Are you sure about the substrate? Not a silly question, because the increase in GH is most often due to something dissolving calcium and/or magnesium in the water. And the most usual sources are rocks, substrate, shells, coral, etc.
Sure about the gravel but there are a number of fake shells and snails that I’m not sure about. I’ll remove them and see what happens. Thanks
ClownLurch
Fish Gatherer
Generally, it should not be necessary to remove and "clean" any decor in an aquarium.
First, the biofilm that forms on all water-covered surfaces is host to various bacteria (all good), micro-organisms and infusoria (both an excellent food for fish which is why you frequently see them grazing these surfaces) and of course algae but this latter is the common green form that is usually not even seen, and snails and shrimp and some fish will readily eat this.
Second, the substrate under large decor (wood and rock especially) is home to several species of waste-control bacteria and should not be disturbed. Vacuum the open areas of the substrate but no further. And sometimes even this is not advisable, depending upon the fish and plant species. If the tank is biologically balanced, water changes are all that should be necessary long-term.
First, the biofilm that forms on all water-covered surfaces is host to various bacteria (all good), micro-organisms and infusoria (both an excellent food for fish which is why you frequently see them grazing these surfaces) and of course algae but this latter is the common green form that is usually not even seen, and snails and shrimp and some fish will readily eat this.
Second, the substrate under large decor (wood and rock especially) is home to several species of waste-control bacteria and should not be disturbed. Vacuum the open areas of the substrate but no further. And sometimes even this is not advisable, depending upon the fish and plant species. If the tank is biologically balanced, water changes are all that should be necessary long-term.
I used to hose my driftwood and rocks off, not the gravel, just the bigger rocks and wood.
Biofilm can be home to bad organisms as well as good so hosing items off occasionally is like wiping the glass down to get rid of the slimy biofilm that occurs on the glass.
Biofilm can be home to bad organisms as well as good so hosing items off occasionally is like wiping the glass down to get rid of the slimy biofilm that occurs on the glass.
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