Fellow Fish Keeper In Need Of Some Help.

[Jud]

Hello all,

I have just started keeping fish for the past 6 months. I first set up a 10 gallon tank with a very beautiful (1) creamcicle Molly, (2) Spotted Cory cats, (1) Otocinclus catfish, (1) Rubbernose Pleco and (2) Brichardi Cichlids that I'm currently holding in the 10 gallon tank for the time being. This tank is very happy and well established. All fish exhibit normal behaviors with the creamcicle molly being the dominant fish.

I recently set up a new 30 gallon tank and had it running for roughly 6 days before I added in (2) Golden Gouramis to help add some ammonia to the cycling of the tank. At first they seemed to be very shy and stay towards the back of the tank. The next day they were exhibiting normal behaviors and eating with ease while the tank was partially cloudy and clearing up. The next day the Gouramis were swimming normally but not eating while the tank was crystal clear. Now, the third day in (yesterday) the Gouramis were staying towards the top of the tank and not doing much swimming and not eating at all. It's quite sad as they look like they are losing color and pale. The pair are staying next to one another in the top right corner of the tank and not moving much at all. I know they are a "shy" fish and especially so after being introduced to a new tank. However, after they were behaving normally and eating on the second day I'm not sure what the problem could be.

I've tried giving them mysis shrimp as the flake food was being ignored altogether after the second day of feeding.

pH: 6.8-7.0
Other water parameters were considered "normal" from the test strips at Petco.

Any help with this matter would be great. I don't want these Gouramis to die.

Best regards,
Jud.

 

[Jud]

I would also like to add that the 30 gallon tank is very well planted and a large hollowed out tree is provided for protection. I can provide pictures if need be.

 

[Whitey_144]

I would also like to add that the 30 gallon tank is very well planted and a large hollowed out tree is provided for protection. I can provide pictures if need be.

welcome, im a newbie myself, but i know what the experienced people on here wil ask for...your water stats! so as well as PH you provided, let us know the ammonia, nitrite and Nitrate levels.

even if the water is clear it may not be great for them and from 6 days it doesnt sound like your tank is cycled enough to cope with the extra demand of the 2 fishes.

i dont know how fragile gourami's are, i imagine quite fragile, but personally i always think if something bad is happeneing do a water change ASAP. (making sure the new water isn't too different from the existing tank water) that way you can do larger water changes. itsounds like people on here do this daily sometimes at the beginning to save the fishes.

Did you use matured filter media from your 10gallon tank?

 

[Jud]

I would also like to add that the 30 gallon tank is very well planted and a large hollowed out tree is provided for protection. I can provide pictures if need be.

welcome, im a newbie myself, but i know what the experienced people on here wil ask for...your water stats! so as well as PH you provided, let us know the ammonia, nitrite and Nitrate levels.

even if the water is clear it may not be great for them and from 6 days it doesnt sound like your tank is cycled enough to cope with the extra demand of the 2 fishes.

i dont know how fragile gourami's are, i imagine quite fragile, but personally i always think if something bad is happeneing do a water change ASAP. (making sure the new water isn't too different from the existing tank water) that way you can do larger water changes. itsounds like people on here do this daily sometimes at the beginning to save the fishes.

Did you use matured filter media from your 10gallon tank?

I will have to get another test to see what my ranges are for more accurate water parameters. I didn't use the filter media from the old tank as I bought a new Aqueon (large) QuietFlow Power filter and heater. I did add some nitrifying bacteria species to the tank (the day of set-up) and every other day since. Also, salt as recommended per tank requirements along with water conditioners.

I was debating on whether or not I should do a water change, but I will perform one 25% water change ASAP.

I appreciate the advice and will get back with the specific water parameters.

 

[Whitey_144]

I would also like to add that the 30 gallon tank is very well planted and a large hollowed out tree is provided for protection. I can provide pictures if need be.

welcome, im a newbie myself, but i know what the experienced people on here wil ask for...your water stats! so as well as PH you provided, let us know the ammonia, nitrite and Nitrate levels.

even if the water is clear it may not be great for them and from 6 days it doesnt sound like your tank is cycled enough to cope with the extra demand of the 2 fishes.

i dont know how fragile gourami's are, i imagine quite fragile, but personally i always think if something bad is happeneing do a water change ASAP. (making sure the new water isn't too different from the existing tank water) that way you can do larger water changes. itsounds like people on here do this daily sometimes at the beginning to save the fishes.

Did you use matured filter media from your 10gallon tank?

I will have to get another test to see what my ranges are for more accurate water parameters. I didn't use the filter media from the old tank as I bought a new Aqueon (large) QuietFlow Power filter and heater. I did add some nitrifying bacteria species to the tank (the day of set-up) and every other day since. Also, salt as recommended per tank requirements along with water conditioners.

I was debating on whether or not I should do a water change, but I will perform one 25% water change ASAP.

I appreciate the advice and will get back with the specific water parameters.

people on here recomend the API freshwater test kit, its about £17 on ebay and last a while apparently.

i'm not sure how that filter works, but is there a way you could cut a bit of sponge from the existing filter media and insert it somewhere in the new filter? (i dont know but maybe in front of the inlet may help - can anyone on here advise if has to be in new filter?). basically this old sponge will have a culture of good bacteria and so can multiply faster, rather than starting from scratch in a brand new filter.

i dont kwow about the salt adding if its a freshwater tank? where is it recommended?

alos, live plants will help with the nitrate.. but its probably the ammonia and nitrite that's hurting the fish...hence needing to water change to dilute these which are present in the water.

 

[Jud]

I would also like to add that the 30 gallon tank is very well planted and a large hollowed out tree is provided for protection. I can provide pictures if need be.

welcome, im a newbie myself, but i know what the experienced people on here wil ask for...your water stats! so as well as PH you provided, let us know the ammonia, nitrite and Nitrate levels.

even if the water is clear it may not be great for them and from 6 days it doesnt sound like your tank is cycled enough to cope with the extra demand of the 2 fishes.

i dont know how fragile gourami's are, i imagine quite fragile, but personally i always think if something bad is happeneing do a water change ASAP. (making sure the new water isn't too different from the existing tank water) that way you can do larger water changes. itsounds like people on here do this daily sometimes at the beginning to save the fishes.

Did you use matured filter media from your 10gallon tank?

I will have to get another test to see what my ranges are for more accurate water parameters. I didn't use the filter media from the old tank as I bought a new Aqueon (large) QuietFlow Power filter and heater. I did add some nitrifying bacteria species to the tank (the day of set-up) and every other day since. Also, salt as recommended per tank requirements along with water conditioners.

I was debating on whether or not I should do a water change, but I will perform one 25% water change ASAP.

I appreciate the advice and will get back with the specific water parameters.

people on here recomend the API freshwater test kit, its about £17 on ebay and last a while apparently.

i'm not sure how that filter works, but is there a way you could cut a bit of sponge from the existing filter media and insert it somewhere in the new filter? (i dont know but maybe in front of the inlet may help - can anyone on here advise if has to be in new filter?). basically this old sponge will have a culture of good bacteria and so can multiply faster, rather than starting from scratch in a brand new filter.

i dont kwow about the salt adding if its a freshwater tank? where is it recommended?

alos, live plants will help with the nitrate.. but its probably the ammonia and nitrite that's hurting the fish...hence needing to water change to dilute these which are present in the water.

Like my 10 gallon tank the salt is added in a very small amount as some fish do much better with a small amount of salt in their water. It's by no means anything close to that of a marine tank. I will get a testing kit today.

I just performed a 25% water change and will keep fish on observation.

The problem with the old filter is that there's not really any way I could cut much more than a few fibers from the old filter. I will continue to add some bacteria to the tank every other day or maybe even every day? The division rates are about 16-20hrs..

 

[Skins]

hello and welcome to the forum,
If your fish are under stress from ammonia/nitrite levels in your water then you will need to perform more than a 25% water change to bring them down.
As you have fish and a un-cycled filter may i suggest you have a look at the links in my signature(bottom of this post), The Nitrogen cycle & Fish-in cycle.

Keith.

 

[Jud]

hello and welcome to the forum,
If your fish are under stress from ammonia/nitrite levels in your water then you will need to perform more than a 25% water change to bring them down.
As you have fish and a un-cycled filter may i suggest you have a look at the links in my signature(bottom of this post), The Nitrogen cycle & Fish-in cycle.

Keith.

Hello Keith. Thanks for the reply. I am familiar with the nitrogen cycle as I have a bachelors in biology and microbiology. However, fish keeping is a very new subject. The day before I wrote the original post the nitrite and NH3 were normal as were nitrate. I guess I should have expected this behavior change in the fish. Since they were projecting what I would call "normal behaviors" the day after their introduction to the aquarium I was alarmed with the sudden change. I will keep the water chemistry in check each day to see if that takes care of their deteriorating health.

 

[Jud]

Today, I just took the Gouramis out and placed them in my 10g tank (which is very established) for the time being.

 

[Skins]

Today, I just took the Gouramis out and placed them in my 10g tank (which is very established) for the time being.

Just a thought, you could fishless cycle your 30g tank now that you have put your gouramis in your 10g.

Keith.

 

[Jud]

Just a thought, you could fishless cycle your 30g tank now that you have put your gouramis in your 10g.

Keith.
[/quote]

That's what I'm thinking about. The only problem now is the 10g is waaayyy overstocked as my friend just dropped off 4 silver dollars that I may inherit

The load of this 10g tank will have to hold for at least 4 days while he and I both go see our families over break. I added in some MICROBE-LIFT "Nite-out II" and "Special blend" to help with the increased bio load. Now, the problem is my absence from my apartment will be no later than Saturday night... I'm not sure how I will be able to pull this off.

Take the tank home? or put the auto feeder on and add an ammonia absorbing bag to the filter? I am unsure of the best course of action besides just taking the tank home.

 

[Carlovel1]

Hiya.
May I point out you should not be mixing aggressive Tanganyika Cichlids (Brichardi Cichlids) with community fish at all, especially in a tiny 10gallon tank unless you want dead community fish later on.
Carl

 

[rob158]

to the forum,

 

[Jud]

Hiya.May I point out you should not be mixing aggressive Tanganyika Cichlids (Brichardi Cichlids) with community fish at all, especially in a tiny 10gallon tank unless you want dead community fish later on.Carl

They've been quite alright for the time being in the 10g. However, they are only in the 10g tank until my 30g tank is ready. Thank you for the observations.

to the forum,

Thank you.

 

[Carlovel1]

Hiya.May I point out you should not be mixing aggressive Tanganyika Cichlids (Brichardi Cichlids) with community fish at all, especially in a tiny 10gallon tank unless you want dead community fish later on.Carl

They've been quite alright for the time being in the 10g. However, they are only in the 10g tank until my 30g tank is ready. Thank you for the observations.

Even in a 30G tank, I would not mix Tanganyika Cichlids with Community fish. They are totally different fish with different water conditions requirements, and different tankmates needed. Either go for a Cichlids tank or a community tank but not both