Cycling...

FishForums.net Pet of the Month
🐶 POTM Poll is Open! 🦎 Click here to Vote! 🐰

Phreaxer

Fish Crazy
Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
207
Reaction score
0
Location
Orange County, CA
I will admit right off the bat that I am about as dumb when it comes to fish as rock stars are to physics... That being said, I would also like to apologize once again for my stupidity in my previous post.


What I would like to know is how to properly set up my 2.5 Gallon tank here at work. I am not sure what kinda fish I am going to put in it yet. Probably just one or two though... I want to know the best way to get the water ready. I have heard/read both to put fish in the water, and not too, chemicals, and no chemicals, so I am pretty confused at this point...

Any help at all would be appreciated... Thanks!
 
There is a huge problem when thinking of 2.5 gallon tanks. That is, I don't know of any filtration that will work in one other than a custom undergravel provided with the tank or possibly a Penguin "Mini."

As for what to put in there, I don't know of many for that either. I would assume either one male betta or a couple of small livebearers. Fancy guppies would make for a very bright and colorful aquarium that would otherwise be seen as a glass of drinking water. As for cycling, I would recommend either the temporary use of striped dianos borrowed from an LFS or friend or to be later placed in a larger, more appropriate aquarium. Striped dianos are very hardy, much like the goldfish you had earlier, and a relativly small fish at trade size. This fish is very popular for cycling, and use as dither in larger community tanks. As far as an alternative goes, "fishless" cycling is an option, but I don't know how well it would work with an undergravel filter, since it relys on the build-up of "mulm" or unused food and poo. It would however work well with a "mini," if you could fit it on the tank, and you weren't keeping bettas (they like calmer waters).

Now, as far as hardware. The tank is needed of course. If I were you, I would prefer one that is shaped more like a cube than a coke bottle so you get a little more surface area. However, the taller ones "can" make viable aquariums. Second, you will need a light. This can either be a desk lamp, the ceiling lights or one provided in a hood. Also, you will need a thermometer to check the temp of the water. There are small strip ones available that are acurate enough for this set-up. If temp is a problem, ie too cold, you may want to invest in a small heater. You can either get one that goes in the tank, thus wasting precious tank space or one for reptiles. I would assume that the reptile heaters would work best if you could protect them from dripping water. I would wrap it in a small thin towel except under the tank. And remember, this is only necessary if cold water is a problem.

The second most important thing is filtration. If a mini fits on the tank, and the fish that you keep don't mind slightly turbulent water, by-all-means by the "mini." There cost around $10-15, but are well worth the investment. If keeping a betta, or if an undergravel filter is provided and you want to use it, you will also need an air pump. This will be the drive of the undergravel lift tube, as I don't know of any powerheads that won't throw fish out of 2.5 gallon tanks.

Next, substrate can be important. If useing an undergravel filter, you need to stick with typical aquarium gravel. However, if keeping small plants, you may want to consider a little different substrate. Sand makes a great substrate, and you may mix a small bit of laterite or clay in the bottom of it. Good plants would be dwarf sag. or anubias nana or maybe some baby tears for a little height in the back.



So, all that to say this, set up the tank how you want, put ONE striped diano in there (you may see if the LFS will let you return it if you don't have at least a 10 gallon and 5 buddies to go with it), let it set for 2 weeks, take a water sample to your LFS. Have them check for ammonia and nitrIte. You should be right in the middle of the cycle by now. Continue to take samples each week, until both ammonia and nitrIte are zero. Do a water change (about 1 gallon worth) and the next day go get your planned fish. Remember, only one male betta, or only 3 fancy guppies.

Questions you need to answer-
1. What filtration?
2. What water temp is norm in the office? (actually check it out, don't rely on air temp)
3. How to solve # 2? (come tell us the temp., we'll help solve)
4. What fish are you going to keep?
5. What plants, if any?
 
apology accepted.

cycling the tank involves creating a biological filter to remove the harmful toxins out of the tank that can either disease your fish or kill them.

since you are putting this up at work and from your other post your mother has an established tank, see when she does a water change if she will give you the water. just enough to fill the tank. also if she has any extra sponges, gravel you can exchange with new gravel, etc... that would be the fastest way. you should be ready for fish in a few days. when removing the gravel make sure that it stays covered with water so as not to destroy the bacteria in it.

the long process of cycling is that you want to creat ammonia in the tank. ammonia is created from decaying matter, excess food and fish waste. to create ammonia you can either add ammonia bought in the store. make sure that it is 100% ammonia though. no additives. once the levels of ammonia are raised, you will start to see them lower and the levels of nitrites raise. nitrites are a less concentrated form of ammonia. you have bacteria in established tanks which feeds on the nitrites. hence called nitrifying bacteria. nitrites are then converted to nitrates. the lesser of the three toxins. aquatic plants feed on nitrates. slower growing plants require less nitrates than faster growing nitrates.

for the size of tank that you are wanting to set up, i would see if you could get some water and elements that have the bacteria already in it. some lfs will help you out there. like i said earlier you should be ready for fish in a few days. one of the advantages of having established tanks handy.

the best filtration for a small tank like that is a box filter or a sponge filter. both are relatively cheap, under 10.00 and will work off the aerator.

semper fi
 
Hi Phreaxer

Not much to add. As You are getting a very small tank, IMO it would be best to two water changes per week. If you change a pint on Tuesday and Friday, that should keep your new fishy friends fit and well. It would be best to leave the new water to stand for a day before doing the water changes.


Dolphin
iru.gif
 
Thank you three very much for your complete replies.

Are there any sites I should look at that will give me a good idea on what to and not to do, so I dont have to keep posted all these stupid questions without a clue?

Dolphin, the water change would be just a pint? not more than that? Should I put the water in a cup and let it sit by my desk for that time, or can it be in a bottle or something? thanks again!
 
Hi Phreaxer

2.5 galls = 20 pints, thus two pints a week = 10% water change. You colud double this if you want. The idea of letting the new water stand is to let the chlorine come out of the water, thus it needs to be open to the air. An open bottle should be ok.


Dolphin
iru.gif
 

Most reactions

trending

Staff online

Back
Top