Cycling starts today - question

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Robder

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Hiya - started cycling my tank today (exciting!).

I've found the guide here really helpful and have ammonia to hand which I'll test after 30 mins.

Question- I have a bottle of 'stress coat' and 'quick start' - should I use either of these to dechlorinate the water before adding ammonia? THANKS!

(& apols for potentially stupid question) :oops:

:fish:
 
You need to add a dechlorinator as the chlorine or chloramine in tap water prevents the bacteria growing. Of the two products you mention, Stress Coat is a dechlorinator.

Quick Start is bottled bacteria. But it probably contains the wrong nitrite eaters - Dr Tim's One & Only and Tetra Safe Start are known to contain the correct species. Use the Quick Start if you have it; it won't do any harm but it may not work for adding nitrite eaters. It does contain the right ammonia eaters.
 
Great - just added stress coat for now and will add ammonia tomorrow in that case. So many products - all so confusing! Thanks!
 
Stress Coat contains aloe vera...not good for fish...but, unsure how it will affect a fishless cycle

I'd use Seachem Prime, or API Tap Water conditioner, instead...
 
Stress Coat should be OK for cycling, but once there are fish in the tank aloe vera is not very good. Once you've finished the bottle, look at the other two that SlapHppy mentioned.
If your water company uses chloramine to disinfect drinking water look for Prime. If they use chlorine, API Tap Water Conditioner (I have chlorine and I use this one).



Chloramine is ammonia and chlorine joined together. Dechlorinators split it up and remove the chlorine leaving the ammonia in the water. Prime contains something to detoxify this ammonia. The detoxification wears off after 24 to 36 hours but in a cycled tank the bacteria will have removed it long before then.
Check the tank for ammonia before you add any - if it's zero that suggests you have chlorine rather than chloramine.
 
The ideal is not to detoxify the ammonia. It turns it into a form the bacteria cannot use as efficiently as when the ammonia is NH3 which is the form that is really toxic to fish. In this form the cycle goes more slowly. Since Prime etc. wear off in about 24 hours ammonia, in the best form form for the bacteria, is back and the cycle resumes the normal rate. Usually, there are very few water changes needed during a fishless cycle and mostly they are because something has gone off track. So this is almost never an issue.

Also, because of how Prime etc. works, it is important to test for ammonia right after you refill the tank as much after that readings are not reliable for some time. Go to the SeaChem site for Prime, click the FAQ and then read:

> I am using Prime® to control ammonia but my test kit says it is not doing anything, in fact it looks like it added ammonia! What is going on?
> I tested my tap water after using Prime® and came up with an ammonia reading. Is this because of chloramine? Could you explain how this works in removing chloramine?
https://www.seachem.com/prime.php

For most folks new to the hobby and to cycling it is not worth spending the extra money to get a dechlor that doesn't detox ammonia. After the tank is cycled, there is little use for them.
 
it is not worth spending the extra money to get a dechlor that doesn't detox ammonia
Can you explain a bit further, please. I use a dechlor, API Tap Water Conditioner, that doesn't detox ammonia because I don't need it. And in the UK, the it costs less than Seachem Prime, which does detoxify ammonia. So I spend less not extra to get a dechlor which doesn't detoxify ammonia :unsure:
 
If you know your water co uses only chlorine you can buy cheaper than API.

For many years chlorine was the only thing used to disinfect the water supply. So all fish keepers needed to make a tank safe was dechlorinator which is usually sodium thiosulfate. You can buy this in bulk cheaply.

Sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O3) can be used to neutralize or remove residual chlorine. It simply reacts and forms sodium hydrogen sulfate or sodium bisulfate which is an inactive salt.
Then chloramine was "discovered as being a better option in many cases. Chloramine is a mix of chlorine and ammonia. When one uses a plain dechlor on this, it breaks into its two component parts- chlorine and ammonia. But the chlorine is detoxified as well which leaves the ammonia. So the newest products became a dechlor which not only broke down chelorine and also broke apart the chloramine but also contained an ammonia detoxifier to handle that.

Here is the one problem with using only a chlorine detox product. It is possible that one's water supplier may switch to chloramine. They are supposed to announce this stuff but it is rea;l;y easy for most not to notice the change or even to know about it. In such a case if sudden;y the water coming out of your faucets contained residual chloramine. The result would be similar to your pouring some ammonia into the tank but knot knowing it.

If one is sure that their water supplier only uses chlorine and will ssend agvance notice if they decide to switch to chlroamine, there is no reason to use the more expensive product. I am very lucky in that I have excellent well water and do not use dechlor. But I have both Prime and Amquel on hand. I take the prime to fish events where i may have to use tap water and I use the Amquel after blrach dipping plants or algae covered decor so I can return these to the tank immediately.

As for the bacteria, the ones we want are designed to use NH3. They have receptors for it. Many also have a lesser number of NH4 receptors which allow them to use this less desirable form of ammonia. But they are less efficient using it.

Because of how the toal ammonia works in a tank, most of it is in the NH4 form. However, it is possible to remve all the total ammonia in a tank just by removing NH3 or NH4. That is because as one removes one or the otherm the water chemistry quickly return the balance that the pH and temperature of the water dictate.

The final piece in this puzzle are plants. These also use ammonia, but they prefer it as NH4/ Plants are able to utilize NH4 much faster than bacteria can use NH3. However, one can have a well cycled tank which contains no live plants *sabe maybe some algae). One the other hand no plantedauqtic environment will be devoid of the nitrifying bacteria. The plants actually host these on their stems, roots and leaves. This is also why one way to deal with cycling issues when there are fish preset is to add live plants.

If you want more info on how cheap is can be to use sodium thiosulfate, have a quick read here http://www.jonahsaquarium.com/JonahSite/dechlor.htm
 

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