Cycle Question: Does Nitrite Cycle Typically Last Longer Than Ammonia

[auburn97]

I'm five weeks into a fish-in cycle on a 10-gallon tank (two platys in the tank). I'm just now registering nitrites, between 0.25 and .5 ppm. Ammonia was 2.0 ppm before 50 percent water change last night. My question is the nitrite cycle and it's relative length compared to ammonia cycle? Also, from this point on in the cycle how long should I go between water changes and what percent water changes should I make? I've been doing 50 percent changes when ammonia creeps above 1 ppm, typically every 4-6 days.

Thanks in advance.

 

[CezzaXV]

I don't know much about fish-in cycling, but I do know from fishless cycling that the bacteria that convert Nitrite to Nitrate take twice as long to develop as those which convert ammonia to nitrite.

 

[Katch]

Nitrite eating bacteria take twice as long to develop.

 

[backtotropical]

Hi,

Firstly, you need to change water in greater percentages and more regularly than you are currently. The levels of ammonia and nitrite you are reporting can be lethal for fish. The only absolutely safe level is zero. That obviously isn't possible in a fish in cycle so generally it is recommended that you aim to keep both levels below 0.25. If either ammonia or nitrite raises above this, you need an immediate water change of sufficient proportions to bring the levels down again, 100% water changes aren't uncommon in your situation.

In answer to your question, yes typically the nitrite phase of the cycle does take longer, generally speaking around twice as long.

Good luck with it and be sure to ask anything you are unsure of.

Regards

BTT

 

[lucasluke]

Nitrite converting bacteria takes twice as long to grow than ammonia bacteria. Also it takes twice as long to process because 1ppm = 2.7ppm Nitrite.

 

[the_lock_man]

+1 to BTT.

If you have 2ppm ammonia, and you change 50%, you are left with 1ppm - still hugely toxic. You have to keep those ammonia and nitrite levels below 0.25ppm at all times - not just when you've finished a water change, because the levels will quickly rise again.

You need to give yourself some leeway - get the levels down to, say 0.1ppm, to allow yourself time to go to work, etc., and then be available to water-change again, when the levels have reached 0.25ppm. This is very hard work.

If it's any consolation, I made exactly the same mistakes when I first started in the hobby, I wasn't the first one either, and you won't be the last one.