Clowdy water concerns!!!

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carlobellina

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I'm still new to this and must have done something wrong. I've had my tank set up for 3 months now. It was fully cycled and crystal clear for about a month and a half. Yesterday I did my weekly water change of about 40% and noticed the filters pads were filthy so I rinsed off 2 new ones and put them in the filter. Now today I have clowdy water. Will this go away? What did I do wrong?
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Also I add water conditioner and stress zyme during my weekly water changes. It's a 50 gallon corner Pentagon tank with a dual filter.

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Be that its new probably a bacterial bloom. What are your parameters and stock?

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Would it have anything to do with changing the filter pads? Everything tests fine. My other tank is crystal clear and I changed the water yesterday but didn't change the filter pad

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The simple fact the filter media was changed does have an effect on your cycled tank.

Basically your bacterial colony lives inside the filter media as well as all over inside the tank on substrate, plants and decor. So changing the filter media will diminish your bacterial colony that is needed to deal with the ammonia and nitrite that occurs.

The cloudy water is very likely to be a bacterial bloom, meaning your bacteria is trying to form to get back to the numbers needed to deal with your tank. In short its either a spike or a mini cycle.

Keep a good eye on your water parameters, anything above 0.5ppm ammonia or nitrite, do a water change to lower these levels. Remember that ammonia and nitrite are toxic to your stocking.

This should level out fairly quickly but as mentioned, keep an eye on water parameters and the behaviour of your fish. Lethargy, gasping, red gills, at surface of water etc etc, then something is amiss and likely due to either ammonia or nitrite or even both.

For future references and a valuable lesson learned here, changing your filter media should not happen unless the filter media is literally falling apart, and even then only change up to half of filter media at a time (do half of filter during one week of water change then do the other half of filter media on another week of water change maintenance)

But generally speaking the gunk thats in your filter media is likely to be bacteria as well as debris, so if it gets too clogged then simply rinsing the media, again, up to half of the filter media at a time, in old tank water during weekly water change /maintenance.

Don't be too enthusiastic with your cleaning of filter media trying to get it back to white or whatever colour it was, just simply give it a squeeze or two in the old tank water to try and keep your bacteria mostly on the media but getting rid of the gunk.

Another point of filter maintenance, if you see the water flow getting slow, that could be down to the filter media getting too clogged with gunk, but it could also be the filter impeller needing cleaned. This is a magnetic propeller if you like, the magnetics get slowed down if theres too much gunk in the filter housing where this impeller is, a toothbrush or a little wire brush does wonders for this type of job.

Don't worry, we all have been there and learned this way too. It's good you're asking these types of questions and this type of mistake is more comon than you may think but its not all bad as long as noticed early and learned for the next time.

This is how most of us has learned some of the do's and don'ts of this hobby :)
 
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Thank you so much!!! You were very informative and I appreciate the help!!!

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!!!UPDATE!!! I came home to 3 dead fish tonight. Amonia is 0. PH was 7.5 and KH was high at 240. I'm doing a water change now. Any recommendations? ??

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Can you give nitrite and nitrate readings as well?

Btw, what kind of test kit are you using?
 
Nitrate 2 was 1 and nitrate 3 was 20. I use both fresh water master test kit and 5 in 1 aquarium test strips

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I did a 60% water change and added water conditioner and stress zyme... we lost 2 more black neon tetras the school went from 8- 4... I promised the kids we'd get more but not until the tank is prestine again. Tough lesson being learned here. But I now know not to change both filter pads at the same time!!!

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That's unfortunately the case, a lesson learned the hard way.

I'd recommend you use a liquid based test kit rather than the test strips.

Test strips can be woefully inaccurate and unreliable though there are some half decent ones but tend to be more on the expensive side.

API Master Test Kit is a popular choice with many members using this due to being more accurate and better value for money. But of course following instructions to the letter is a must to have any chance of reliable test results.

The readings you gave earlier does not make much sense to me so can't really comment about that at this point.

Can you give any symptoms the fish gave just before they passed?
For example did they gasp a lot, at water surface, swimming erratically or lethargic and red gills etc the more info, the better really to have more of a sense of what's occurring in your tank at the moment.
 
That's unfortunately the case, a lesson learned the hard way.

I'd recommend you use a liquid based test kit rather than the test strips.

Test strips can be woefully inaccurate and unreliable though there are some half decent ones but tend to be more on the expensive side.

API Master Test Kit is a popular choice with many members using this due to being more accurate and better value for money. But of course following instructions to the letter is a must to have any chance of reliable test results.

The readings you gave earlier does not make much sense to me so can't really comment about that at this point.

Can you give any symptoms the fish gave just before they passed?
For example did they gasp a lot, at water surface, swimming erratically or lethargic and red gills etc the more info, the better really to have more of a sense of what's occurring in your tank at the moment.
Ok just used my API freshwater master test kit. Here are the results
PH- 7.6
H.R.ph-7.8
Ammonia-0 ppm
Nitrite-0 ppm
Nitrate-15 ppm

I noticed my black neon tetras were swimming up top which isn't normal right before the water change. No heavy breathing or red gills...
I had :
1 opaline grahmmi
1 blue grahmmi
1 ghost fish (died yesterday)
7 red tetras. ( now only 6)
8 black neon tetras (now 4)
7 black skirt tetras (now 6)
1 Raphael catfish

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Your water parameters is looking pretty good, zero ammonia and zero nitrite is spot on.

Now, have seen a couple of potential issues with your stocking and their parameter range, namely the tetras. Tetras are soft water fish, preferring lower pH than your level at 7.6 at best according to your readings. Tetras tend to do best around the neutral to acidic range as well as water hardness being fairly soft, say below 200ppm. So its worth watching your tetras for any signs as your water is a little more alkaline than they would like but not impossible as long as your pH does not fluctuate too much.

Black Neon Tetra


Gouramis are ok wiith a fairly large ph range and water hardness. But they can be a mean tankmate, meaning that they could bully other tankmates, not saying yours are bullying but keep an eye on them for sure. FYI I have had gouramis before, lovely loooking fish, however they were pretty mean to each other as well to their tankmates which were Emerald Danios and I like my danios so the choice had to be made and so have not kept gouramis since I rehomed these guys.

Quoted from Seriously Fish -

"While often recommended as a community fish this is not always so. Some individuals can become very spiteful as they mature, while others remain peaceful. Males are territorial and will squabble amongst themselves, becoming very aggressive when breeding. It is best kept with robust fish such as barbs, larger characins, loricariids, loaches and other medium/large gouramis."

Trichopodus trichopterus - 3 Spot Gourami

Not the best news for you but at the very least you have an idea of how your fish are coping and the deaths could be attributed to a number of things, not least due to the mini cycle / spike, but due to the pH values and stocking compatibility could be a factor too.

Do watch the behaviour of your stocking for any bullying/harrassment and signs for any more symptoms and see how things get on.

Might be well worth having a look online for your local water authority to see what the average water hardness is for your area. Then see whats what :)
 
Do you think I should add quick start or bacteria to help rid the clowdiness??? Everything was fine and fish were happy until the bacterial bloom due to me changing both filter pads

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No, do not add anything else to the tank. Quick start will do precious little for either the tank or the bacterial bloom (quickstart is a waste of time and money imho). Though adding bacteria could be helpful but not at this stage imho, your bacterial colony will grow fairly rapidly, just give it time and keep watching your stocking behaviour as well as the water parameters, anytime you see 0.5ppm ammonia / nitrite or more then it may be worth changing half the tank water to keep these parameters at a low level.

The cloudiness will dissipate naturally once the bacterial colony gets back up to strength and the tank gets the water balance back to normal.

Adding any chemicals apart from the essentials should always be avoided if possible. Do remember the chemicals added to the tank will also go into the fish's systems and sometimes it can do more harm than good.

I know the that the temptation to try and hurry or help things along is fairly strong but patience and observation required in good doses is best for this situation.
 

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