Cloudy tank before fish

[Byron]

But what if fish are in place and existing media in place?

I am not familiar with the Moray 700 filter you mention...can it not be turned off and removed for cleaning?

As for the fish, they are in the water so you haven't much option but to work around them.

 

[Brentstarburst]

Just asking, can a used ceramic filter (that has been in use for potentially a year) be replaced during a cycle)?

 

[Byron]

Just asking, can a used ceramic filter (that has been in use for potentially a year) be replaced during a cycle)?

Technically, any replacement at any time may affect the nitrogen cycle. We don't know if any beneficial bacteria remained in this media or not; if it dried out for example, the bacteria you want all died.

Aside from that, the Tetra SafeStart gets the bacteria going faster, and live plants even faster.

 

[Brentstarburst]

Technically, any replacement at any time may affect the nitrogen cycle. We don't know if any beneficial bacteria remained in this media or not; if it dried out for example, the bacteria you want all died.

Aside from that, the Tetra SafeStart gets the bacteria going faster, and live plants even faster.

So, should I replace the used ceramic filter or not?!

 

[Fishfinder1973]

You say nothing has been changed in a year,The ceramic filter lasts years and will see you out.Unless you don’t like the media then why change it.Bin the carbon and don’t bother replacing it,it’s an unnecessary expense.
Bruce and Byron both have their points,but I think we would all agree on one thing,and that’s plants.Go and buy lots of plants,fast growers.
Feed the fish and test the water regularly,doing water changes when needed,e.g when ammonia rises.
Simple as that

 

[Jan Cavalieri]

I'd say if the fish are in place and have survived a few days - don't mess with it. Remove the carbon and replace the carbon monthly. I personally feel that carbon is a very inexpensive filter that can also help "shine" the water. In any case - it doesn't hurt. In the meantime get a test kit = the one from API is the most popular. I allows you to measure Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates and PH. Look on wikipedia for the name of your fish and they usually give the most optimal PH - something I feel is extremely important to adjust. Most fresh water tropical fish require a PH between 6.5 and 8. (with 7 being the most common). There are chemicals you can use to adjust the PH - in my case my tap water PH is 9.4 WAY too high for any freshwater fish. I use a reducer that changes the PH to exactly 7.0 I've had great luck with. There are also chemicals like PHdown and PHup that adjust the PH but I would only use those if the required PH is out of the desired range for your fish (and it isn't 7) Cichlids, for example, mainly do better with a ph of 8;0 so that's when you use PH up or down to get it close to the required PH.

You'll find the test kit invaluable for cycling your tank or for detecting and Ammonia or Nitrite spike (I have a nitrite spike and can't figure out why) Ammonia spike are common when a dead fish isn't remove right away (at least that's the only time I've had on)

Best of luck. Hold on to the filter materials you ordered. After you replace the charoal, the next month replace the sponge. Never replace the biologiclal beads/noodles whatever they look like since that is where a large of bacteria is held that is necessary for the fish survival, I've actually replaced it when the bag became damaged but I left the sponge filter in place and the aquarium had been in operation for over a year - by that time the substrate in the tank also carries a huge amount of bacteria. When you was your media only do it with tank water you've removed during a water change - that will preserve the bacteria

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

There are also chemicals like PHdown and PHup that adjust the PH but I would only use those if the required PH is out of the desired range for your fish (and it isn't 7) Cichlids, for example, mainly do better with a ph of 8;0 so that's when you use PH up or down to get it close to the required PH.

Be very VERY cautious about trying to alter your pH...it rarely works out.
Jan's example aside, of course, just because her tap water is way too high.
The buffers mentioned change pH rather quickly and this change can be fatal. This isn't so much of an issue in a tank without fish, but you'll have to change the pH each and every time you add fresh water.

It is always easier and far less complex to match your fish to the water you have, rather than the other way round.

 

[Brentstarburst]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. The fish are still doing okay and it's been about 24 hours.

I'll look to replace the carbon filter and then in about a month the sponge.

It's a little cloudier today. I have tested and there is no ammonia or nitrite yet. PH is good, but the water is very hard here.

Could it potentially be a faulty filter unit? The Moray 700 isn't working properly?

 

[Brentstarburst]

So good news. The cloudy water has now cleared and I'm seeing rises in Ammonia, no Nitrite, but some Nitrate. Which confuses me a little. Still, I've put in some Prime. When would you advise to a do a water change? And how much?

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

So good news. The cloudy water has now cleared and I'm seeing rises in Ammonia, no Nitrite, but some Nitrate. Which confuses me a little. Still, I've put in some Prime. When would you advise to a do a water change? And how much?

When an aquarium is 'cycling' and it has Beneficial Bacteria, (BB), ammonia becomes nitrite becomes nitrate, in varying amounts, depending upon the unique situation of your own tank.

You can change your water as often as you like, PROVIDED you always add water conditioner to the water BEFORE you add it to the tank.
Remember that the BB grows on the surfaces in your tank, (rocks, wood, plants, filter media).

I used the Microbe-Lift products with my 20 gallon planted tank and got into the habit of changing two bucket's-worth (2 x 8 litres) every other day.

 

[Slaphppy7]

So good news. The cloudy water has now cleared and I'm seeing rises in Ammonia, no Nitrite, but some Nitrate. Which confuses me a little. Still, I've put in some Prime. When would you advise to a do a water change? And how much?

ANY time there is ammonia present in a tank with fish, a WC is in order...IMO, at least 50% of the water needs to be changed if ammonia is present...

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

ANY time there is ammonia present in a tank with fish, a WC is in order...IMO, at least 50% of the water needs to be changed if ammonia is present...

That is so very true.