Best Lighting For 125 Gallon Tank

[karaim]

What is the best lighting for a 125 gallon tank (24" deep). Price is not an issue because my father is an electrician and can set something up for me at wholesale prices.

I know that MH is the best. My question is how many bulbs, how many watts, how many lumens, etc.?

I plan on keeping soft and hard corals and anemones.

Anything else that I need to know?

Thanks in advance

 

[karaim]

What about three 250 watt MH bulbs?

What light spectrum? I read that 6500 Kelvin is the best for corals, but looks ugly (need to supplement with VHO tubes or something else).

I also read that 10,000 Kelvin is not as good as 6,500. What do you guys think?

 

[Colin_T]

If the tank is 6x2x2ft then 3x250watt halides should be fine, in fact you could probably grow Acroporas really well under that lighting.

For coral tanks use globes that are around 10,000K. They give a whiter light, whereas the 14-20,000K are usually more blue. Globes with a low Kelvin rating (below 6,500K) generally make the water look yellow.

If you have lots of light on the tank then raise the units well above the tank to start with. If a new coral isn't use to the bright light it can stress and bleach. Also the more light you have the faster the water can warm up. The lights need to be high enough above the tank so they don't warm the water otherwise you will need a chiller unit.
To test how much heat is coming from the lights, have the lights fitted above the tank. Turn them on for a 30 minutes or so. Rest your hand on top of the tank underneath one of the lights. If you can feel warmth then the water will warm up. The lights will need to be raised higher up so you don't feel any warmth.

Many soft corals release chemicals into the water to get rid of other corals (when they fight). Soft corals can tolerate much higher levels of these chemicals than hard corals can. If you plan on mixing the two types you should run carbon in the filter for the first 6-12months and have a skimmer on the tank. Once the corals have settled in they will stop trying to kill each other and no longer release chemicals into the water. However, if you introduce another coral into the tank then it can start all over again.

Be careful with anemones as many will wander around the tank and either kill other corals, or be killed by the other corals. Some species will also hide under rocks, where they bleach and waste away. Others will get sucked up the intake pipe of power filters, or block the drain pipes for trickle filters/ sumps. A course sponge over the intake/ drains can help prevent this from being a problem.

 

[karaim]

If the tank is 6x2x2ft then 3x250watt halides should be fine, in fact you could probably grow Acroporas really well under that lighting.

For coral tanks use globes that are around 10,000K. They give a whiter light, whereas the 14-20,000K are usually more blue. Globes with a low Kelvin rating (below 6,500K) generally make the water look yellow.

If you have lots of light on the tank then raise the units well above the tank to start with. If a new coral isn't use to the bright light it can stress and bleach. Also the more light you have the faster the water can warm up. The lights need to be high enough above the tank so they don't warm the water otherwise you will need a chiller unit.
To test how much heat is coming from the lights, have the lights fitted above the tank. Turn them on for a 30 minutes or so. Rest your hand on top of the tank underneath one of the lights. If you can feel warmth then the water will warm up. The lights will need to be raised higher up so you don't feel any warmth.

Many soft corals release chemicals into the water to get rid of other corals (when they fight). Soft corals can tolerate much higher levels of these chemicals than hard corals can. If you plan on mixing the two types you should run carbon in the filter for the first 6-12months and have a skimmer on the tank. Once the corals have settled in they will stop trying to kill each other and no longer release chemicals into the water. However, if you introduce another coral into the tank then it can start all over again.

Be careful with anemones as many will wander around the tank and either kill other corals, or be killed by the other corals. Some species will also hide under rocks, where they bleach and waste away. Others will get sucked up the intake pipe of power filters, or block the drain pipes for trickle filters/ sumps. A course sponge over the intake/ drains can help prevent this from being a problem.

The tank is 60" x 18" x 24".

The problem with raising the light higher is that I have a canopy right above the aquarium. I will probably end up getting a chiller.

Also, I don't have a filter, and only have a protein skimmer and natural filtration (live rock and deep sand bed in sump). I don't plan on getting hard corals and anemones at first because they are harder to take care of (so I've read). At first, I only plan on getting soft corals (different types), but want to have lighting that can accomodate all livestock if and when I decide to get it.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Colin_T]

You don't want halides in a hood/ canopy on the tank. It will cook the fish and probably burn the house down, well not quite but it will definitely cook the fish if the lights are enclosed and don't have enough air around them. Most people that run marine tanks with halides have an open top cover. Basically a frame around the top of the tank that is open on top. The frame work covers the lights and makes the tank look enclosed. But the open top allows for better air circulation.

Your tank holds about 100gallons if it were just full of water. If you have lots of rock in it then it will have less than that. To work out the volume of water in the tank
measure Length x Width x Height in cm
divide by 1000
equals volume in litres

When measuring the height, measure from the top of the gravel to the top of the water level. If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank, remove them before measuring the height. If the tank is already set up with rock in then you will have to guesstimate the volume.

there are 3.785 litres in a US gallon
and 4.5 litres in a UK gallon

 

[SkiFletch]

Yeah, a standard 125 is 72x18x24

Regardless, a 3x250 metal halide setup would be fine. As Colin mentioned, heat will definitely be a problem with a triplet of 250's but not impossible with a hood. You'll just need some serious ventilation if you do have one. I personally have 2x175 watt haildes in my 36x18x12" hood and don't have much problem with a few big 120mm fand in the back. Notice my hood is pretty tall though so if yours is shorter, Halides probably aren't the best. If you do go with halides, make sure you go with electronic ballasts to prevent heat and be more efficient. Also consider which bulb you ultimately like and choose double or single ended halides.

Your other option would be a 6x54 watt T5HO setup with indvual reflectors for each bulb. If you go with that route, you'd have to stagger the bulbs 3 and 3. That way the 2' on the edges of the aquarium wouldn't be good for SPS/Nems/Clams but you could have those in the middle.

Lastly, if you can shoehorn them all in there, an 8x54watt T5HO setup would be really ideal. But good luck getting all those reflectors in an 18" wide hood...

 

[karaim]

http/www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=2

The 125 Tall is my tank. It's 60 x 18 x 25 (not 24 as I said previously). 18 is the depth and not the height.

 

[karaim]

Here's a picture of what my tank and hood look like (this is not my particular tank, but that's what mine looks like).

I understand that there will be way too much heat since my hood is right on top of my aquarium. What if I cut out the top of the hood, or make holes in the top? How high above the water do the lights have to be?

Any other suggestions that would still make my tank look good? I am really set on going with metal halides and I can even remove the canopy if that's the only thing that will work.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[sacramonel]

If you could cut out holes in the top then on the sides it would be best. The side holes would be for fans. Two on the left side blowing cool air in, and two on opposite side sucking the hot air out.

 

[SkiFletch]

Ok well you can use halides here, it'll just be tricky. Let's ask this though, how big of an issue is aesthetics for you? Are we trying to please a wife here, are parent's in control of the situation, is this thing going in a mancave in the basement, or somewhere in between?

Also how many braces are across the top of the tank?

 

[karaim]

Ok well you can use halides here, it'll just be tricky. Let's ask this though, how big of an issue is aesthetics for you? Are we trying to please a wife here, are parent's in control of the situation, is this thing going in a mancave in the basement, or somewhere in between?

Also how many braces are across the top of the tank?

Aesthetics are important - trying to please wife (no way out of that one )



There is one brace in the middle of the tank.

 

[SkiFletch]

Oooh, one brace stinks... Well, if it's got a lower profile hood, and aesthetics are important, I'd really suggest leaning towards T5HO setups. I mean you can go hoodless and use Pendant style halides, but the light spill will not pass the wife test, trust me. You could also cut big holes in the top of the hood and have the halide reflectors sticking out the top of the hood, but again, that would also fail the wife test having big gaudy aluminum reflectors sticking out the top...

Remember, not only is heat a problem if the lights are too close to the tank, but so is working in it (vaccuming, glass cleaning, adjusting corals, aquascaping, etc). The lamp will be so close to the water you'll risk burning your arm everytime you stick it into the tank. Trust me, halide burns hurt!

The T5's on the other hand are very slim and would need minimal hood modification. It's either that or get a custom hood built to house the halides.

And remember, with a single brace you'd want a pair of 250watters or even 400watters. Having three would mean one would be centered over the single brace and cast a nasty shadow.

 

[karaim]

Oooh, one brace stinks... Well, if it's got a lower profile hood, and aesthetics are important, I'd really suggest leaning towards T5HO setups. I mean you can go hoodless and use Pendant style halides, but the light spill will not pass the wife test, trust me. You could also cut big holes in the top of the hood and have the halide reflectors sticking out the top of the hood, but again, that would also fail the wife test having big gaudy aluminum reflectors sticking out the top...

Remember, not only is heat a problem if the lights are too close to the tank, but so is working in it (vaccuming, glass cleaning, adjusting corals, aquascaping, etc). The lamp will be so close to the water you'll risk burning your arm everytime you stick it into the tank. Trust me, halide burns hurt!

The T5's on the other hand are very slim and would need minimal hood modification. It's either that or get a custom hood built to house the halides.

And remember, with a single brace you'd want a pair of 250watters or even 400watters. Having three would mean one would be centered over the single brace and cast a nasty shadow.

SkiFletch, I convinced my wife to get rid of the canopy/hood. Now I am free to put up any lights I wish. I really want the medal halides. Should I go with 2 x 250 watts (I have 1 brace) or 2 x 400 watts? If I decide to go with 3 x 250 watts, will the brace in the middle really create a shadow? Does it realy look that bad?

Also, how should I attach the MH's? Should I hang them up? or put them on top of the tank. I also have a glass cover for my tank - should I remove that as well?

Oh, one more thing - I want to get moonlights. How can I attach the moonlights. Are moonlights bad for the corals or the fish? Don't corals/fish need to rest without light?

Thank you

P.S.

I am actually thinking of building something like this: http/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...fm?pcatid=15486

Now, I can get all the lights separately A LOT cheaper (my father is an electrical contractor and gets wholesale prices) - however I am not sure how to put it together above the aquarium. Any suggestions.

 

[SkiFletch]

Yeah, putting a halide over the center brace casts a really noticeable shadow, trust me. I'd say if you are going to go with mostly softies or LPS, confining any SPS to being high in the rock work centered under the lamps you can get away with 250's. I know a lot of people that run twin 250's over 120g tanks with little trouble. Your best bet is to hang them about 12" off the water either suspended from the cieling with cables, or from the wall behind with shelf brackets.

 

[karaim]

Yeah, putting a halide over the center brace casts a really noticeable shadow, trust me. I'd say if you are going to go with mostly softies or LPS, confining any SPS to being high in the rock work centered under the lamps you can get away with 250's. I know a lot of people that run twin 250's over 120g tanks with little trouble. Your best bet is to hang them about 12" off the water either suspended from the cieling with cables, or from the wall behind with shelf brackets.

I actually just bought this light: http/cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=110301976774

It has the following lights:

HQI lamp: 3 x 250W

PC light bulb: 2 x 65W

PC light bulb: 2 x 96W

Dual LED: 8 x Blue-Moon night light

I figure if the center light casts a shadow, I will just remove the center light.

My question is if I hang the light that high up, won't the light "escape" (i.e. go not only in the tank but surrounding areas as well) rather than focus on the tank?


Thank you for all your help. It is greatly appreciated.