Antibiotic treatment for fin rot

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The good bacteria can live on any surface in the aquarium. However, like all organisms ever, they concentrate their populations where their limiting factors are best met. In an aquarium the two things that are the most limited for the bacteria are food and oxygen. Filters provide flow which provides food and oxygen. The surface area of the biomedia provides a surface for the bacteria to grow on where they can sit and allow the oxygen and food to come to them. At the end of the day it is not the biomedia itself that is anything magical, it is nothing more than surface area per volume. The bacteria are happy to grow on any surface, but they do not simply spread out evenly throughout the aquarium. Although any surface area in the tank (decor, glass, substrate, etc.) are otherwise perfectly acceptable, they do not have the same flow as the filter and therefore will not house significant colonies of bacteria.
 
.....once again.
Should I assume that the pH 7.8
will drop on its own? I have read that a leaf rich in tanin and or a piece of drift wood will reduce the pH in a gentle way. Any validity to that. What do you recommend?






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Driftwood would be a good thing to use since it does lower the pH safely.

Make sure since you have a betta to sand down any sharp edges on the wood, their fins could get caught on it.
 
Driftwood is known to reduce PH and did help in my tank.
 
Sure its ok to disagree but before you do make sure you know what you are talking about.
https://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/member-submitted-articles/bacteria-freshwater-aquarium-74891/
Nick, I know what I’m talking about. We have a difference of opinion here. Yours, based on your findings and mine, based on my findings. We can both continue to pull up info to back our individual beliefs but where’s that going to get us? Just shows others believe the same things we both do. Just agree to disagree and move on. What works for each of us is what’s important. More important at this time is to help the OP so no more on this subject. Let’s not hijack the original post.
 
Should I assume that the pH 7.8
The PH is what it is, short of using RO ( Reverse osmosis ) or distilled water there is no way to drop it.

Driftwood is known to reduce PH
Maybe but it all depends on the buffering capacity of the water.

Your PH is what it is, your fish will be fine trying to lower the ph will just cause stress to the fish as the PH yo yo's up n down.
 
.....once again.
Should I assume that the pH 7.8 will drop on its own? I have read that a leaf rich in tanin and or a piece of drift wood will reduce the pH in a gentle way. Any validity to that. What do you recommend?
Don't bother messing with the pH. Just leave it where it is. 7.8 is not an issue for most fish, especially domesticated Bettas.

Driftwood and rotting leaves can reduce the pH a bit but it is negligible. And if it does drop the pH and you do water changes with water that has a higher pH, you can stress or harm the fish with pH changes.

If you want a piece of driftwood in the tank then add some but don't muck about with the pH.
 
Got it [emoji1303] “don’t muck around with the pH”


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Fin Rot has stabilized since performing daily water changes and reduction of nitrate/nitrite levels. I have been doing 75% water changes daily for about 7 days. Should I continue performing 75% water changes even on days when nitrate and nitrite levels are near zero ? Or on those days is it ok to leave well enough alone?


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Reduce water changes to 75% every second day for 2 weeks then you should be good.

The fish will still be in a weakened state due to the illness and it will take about 1 month for it to fully recover. You need to keep conditions good for that time so it can make a full recovery :)
 
Thanks Colin_T
I started cycling the tank with this poor guy in the tank already and this is no doubt what weakened him and why he suffered fin rot (my bad).
The Tank:
The tank is 3 1/2 gallons, has one male Betta, plastic/silk plants, draws water from under gravel (2”deep) into a floss filter chamber that releases the water in a gentle stream, at the surface.
I add 5ml of Terra “Safe Start Plus” (Containing a proprietary blend of nitrogen fixing bacteria) with each water change.
Question:
1) approximately how long after the recommended 75% water changes (every other day) will it take to stabilize the tank so that only routine water changes need be performed?
2) what % of the 3 1/2 gallons should be routinely changed during the long term maintanence phase?

Thanks so much.
Barry


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It normally takes about 4-5 weeks for a filter to develop the beneficial bacteria needed to convert ammonia into nitrite and nitrate. The 4-5 week period starts when you either add fish, or add a source of ammonia (when doing a fishless cycle). It can sometimes take a bit longer but 4-5 weeks is normal.

When the filter has established and you are no longer getting any ammonia or nitrite, then you can do a 75% water change each week to maintain the tank. You should monitor the nitrates when doing this and if the nitrates go up rapidly between water changes, then you do more water changes to compensate. But normally once a week water changes are sufficient for most tanks.

The nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, so that is what you monitor. If they go up to 60 or 80ppm during the week and the once a week water changes don't keep it below 20ppm, then try doing it twice weekly or reduce the food going into the tank.
 
Colin_T, Thanks for those
very clear answers to my questions.



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611c3e22ea270e2bd76273a5e3434336.jpg


This is my Betta into a week of 75% water changes, showing fin rot that seems to be stabilized. At least not getting worse.


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