Thanks. I had went through some articles, and common recommendation is to make water change if nitrates go over 100ppm. I'm at 320 now (test is chowing 80, but for this kind of test the number has to be multiplied by 4.43)The danger with adding ammonia is that nitrite will get high enough to stall the cycle. If your nitrite test showed the same pink as nitrate, it is showing the highest colour for the nitrite tester so it could 8 or anything above 8. Stall point is around 15 ppm.
Nitrate testers work by converting nitrate into nitrite then testing for nitrite so if there's already nitrite in the water, the nitrate test picks that up as well making the nitrate reading higher than it really is.
I know you have not started following the fishless cycling method on here yet, but I would start following that.
From your test results (0 ammonia, 8+ nitrite) I would start adding the snack dose of ammonia (1 ppm dose, labelled as dose #3) or you risk pushing nitrite too high.
Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...www.fishforums.net
And yes, would love to follow the fishless cycling guide, but the bloody ammonia appeared in my tank out of no where and I hadn't yet poured any in myself.
So should I not worry about the nitrates, or should I do 2x50% water change and dose 1ppm of ammonia?