36 gallon stock?

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OllieOllie

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hi. I'm not technically new exactly, I've currently got a 10-gallon betta tank, but definitely not experienced.
Anyways, my cousin might be upgrading one of her tanks from a 36 gallon bowfront to... something bigger come spring. If she does, she says she'd be willing to give me the old one. I was looking into what I might want if that happens and this is what I've come up with, please feel free to tell me if it's overstocked/something is outright incompatible, etc. I'm going to do more independent research on each but I figured I could ask here to see if I could even have all of them first.
14 Celestial Danios (I'm set on this having some of these)
12 Rummynose tetras (also set on this fish)
8 Zebra Danios
8 Harlequin rasboras
1 pearl gourami.
thoughts?
 
Welcome to TFF.

First off, we need to know your source water parameters. Parameters refer to GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity), pH and temperature; other things like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate are conditions not parameters just so we're on the same page. The GH and pH are the most important for your source water (temperature is variable regardless and you can always set with a heater) as it is much easier for you to select fish suited to your available water as opposed to adjusting the parameters which is not at all easy. If you don't already know the tap water parameters, your water authority shoould know; check their website.

Aside from parameters, looking at your fish list...you don't want very active fish like the Zebra Danios in with sedate fish (gourami, rasboras). The Celestial Pearl Danios are really best on their own in large groups; more info here: https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/celestichthys-margaritatus/
 
I don't actually use tap water, we're on a well so I have to buy spring water, so I'm not sure about those parameters, I don't have a way to test them as far as I know.
 
I don't actually use tap water, we're on a well so I have to buy spring water, so I'm not sure about those parameters, I don't have a way to test them as far as I know.

Bottled water can sometimes have minerals dissolved in it, so you need to ascertain the GH and pH. Aquarium test kits will do this. Or you could take a sample to your local fish storte, but make sure they give you the number not some vague term for both, and with GH you need to know the unit of measure (which will likely be either degrees or ppm).
 
Bottled water can sometimes have minerals dissolved in it, so you need to ascertain the GH and pH. Aquarium test kits will do this. Or you could take a sample to your local fish store, but make sure they give you the number not some vague term for both, and with GH you need to know the unit of measure (which will likely be either degrees or ppm).
Ok. I'll see if I can get a test kit soon. I know the pH is ~7 or so, but not anything else.
 
Ok. I'll see if I can get a test kit soon. I know the pH is ~7 or so, but not anything else.

The API liquid test kit for GH/KH is reliable, but you will only be using it the once so you might as well get a much less expensive test. There are some test strips that include GH and this will give you/us what we need to know. GH does not change in the aquarium unless you target it. The pH though is an important test to do periodically as it can warn you of issues if the pH suddenly drops.
 
The label from the bottle may give us some clues.
As an aside - is there a particular reason why you can't use your well water. Many do. Even at 50% weekly changes the cost of bottled water could add up very quickly.
 

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