Byron, is there any chance you can walk me through the steps of how you set up your tank. This will help me understand how and when to add the fish, what else to add to the aquarium and more.
Thanks in advance.
Before I get to this question...on your previous one, which is connected...
Assuming I take the route Byron has suggested, how do I add in 15 fish without getting an ammonia spike (they're not huge fish but they still have a bio-load)? I doubt the plants will be able to suck out all the ammonia that many fish produce. I am uneducated when it comes down to how much ammonia plants can take out of the water in a 24 hour time span. The plants I intend on using are Brazilian Water Ivy, Chain Swords and Dwarf Amazon swords.
I understand that if I grow plants in my tank the bacteria will naturally grow in the filter over time according to my bio-load. What I fail to grasp is how I add the fish into my tank without getting an ammonia spike that kills them.
If you have fast-growing plants and especially floating plants that are growing (all your mentioned plants are good for this--I am assuming the Brazilian Water Ivy is Brazilian Pennywort), it is almost impossible to add too many fish. I went into this topic with two experts, Tom Barr and Neale Monks. Enough said. However, as you are new to this, I would go slower than I myself would, and species by species with a few days apart will work. If the plants are growing, you will not see ammonia above zero, and never see nitrite. Eventually, nitrate maty appear, or it may remain zero permanently--this depends upon the fish load down the road and other factors. Nitrate in my tanks is between 0 and 5 ppm, and has been like this for 20 years; I rarely test nitrate, but when I do it is always the same.
Shoaling fish should always be added as the entire intended group if possible. This is more important with some species than others, and for several reasons. First, the fish
always settle in faster and better the more there are, with every species. Second, those species that have an hierarchy within the shoal will develop this quickly in an aquarium; this is not going to be an issue with Ember Tetra or hatchetfish, and not likely with Black Phantom Tetra, but it is still a consideration. Third, territorial fish quickly develop their territories, and in an aquarium the limited space (no matter how large the tank, it is always going to be limited space to most fish) impacts this development. Not so critical with the fish mentioned (except the Bristlenose if they turn out to both be male), but worth keeping in mind. So, always add the entire intended group if you can.
So, to the method. Once the plants are in and showing signs of growth (expect some yellowing leaves especially from swords, this is natural, provided there are new leaves emerging from the centre of the crown. These new leaves is the sign that the plant is OK. The floating pennywort will be spreading, slowly at first.
After a few days, with the filter/heater functioning properly, the light on a timer (very important for fish and plants) working, plants growing...you can add the first species. Ember Tetras here. After a few days, Black Phantom Tetra, then hatchetfish, then cories, the BN. A few days apart, though this shouldn't be necessary, but no harm being cautious.
I have set up new tnaks like my 70g with 100 fish going in the first day. But the plants came from another tank, as did the chunks of wood, so bacteria on these would be present, and the plants were thriving. I had new filter media (completely) and new substrate (changed over to play sand). I've done this dozens of times. But I can quickly spot any problems. You can take is more slowly.
Byron.
