Stocking questions

[Byron]

Quick question about the corys - I have 4 but the group is 2 individuals of 2 species that look pretty similar. I believe it's 2 x Agassiz and 2 x Julii. Is this an issue? They hang out together. If I were to add 4 more, which species do you recommend?

Most species of cory do not seem to mind it much if they have few of their own provided there are several overall. I have or have had over the years some 20 or so species, and while I try to get a group of five of a species, this is not always possible for various reasons, but I keep them together in the same tank (usually a total group of 30-50) and even those with only one or two of the species seem to chum along with whomever. Pandas cories are different in this regard; mine (I have seven now, three are grown fry) definitely prefer to stay in their species, which can be anything from two or three to four to five to six to all seven. And the "dwarf" species definitely need a larger group of their own.

And number is the key; the more the better, so here I would suggest adding an additional five minimum, preferably six or seven, to make a total of between 9 and 12. You have the space, and I guarantee the cories will be better if you do. Another three of the existing species would be good, then the rest whatever you like, including perhaps another species. BTW, "julii" are most likely not Corydoras julii but C. trilineatus which for some reason are almost always labelled julii. I actually prefer the C. trilineatus, but when adding to this species make sure you get the same. It is best to have several of a species when you can, even though not essential.

On the Apistogramma, be aware that cories and dwarf cichlids do not always do well together. The cory habit of bumbling everywhere can annoy many cichlids. And if the pair should spawn, the cories will inevitably eat the eggs or fry, and may be even more unwelcome. Cichlids feed from the substrate, like cories, so chowing down on the same food tablet/stick can annoy cichlids too. Having said that, rarely do the cories get hurt, the cichlids will head bump them away, but the bumbling cories will not take that for a "no" and be right back.

Also, be cognizant of temperature; cories prefer it on the cool side of tropical, around 75-76 F (24-25C) and some cichlids need more warmth.

 

[Emma_M]

Thank you.

I have a confession that I don't really like cories! They came with the tank and are growing on me, but the thought of a bunch of them taking up the space that a preferred species could use is not something I would choose to do; however I want the fish to be happy so I will get more. Unless there are other ideas?! I do like how they provide some nice activity at the bottom of the tank

I think I will be getting a single Apistogramma. So far I don't know of any places to sell fry so I don't actually want breeders. I am having problems rehoming my current fish, partly because I am a little embarrassed that I want to return recently purchased fish (CPDs and leopard danios)

 

[Byron]

Thank you.

I have a confession that I don't really like cories! They came with the tank and are growing on me, but the thought of a bunch of them taking up the space that a preferred species could use is not something I would choose to do; however I want the fish to be happy so I will get more. Unless there are other ideas?! I do like how they provide some nice activity at the bottom of the tank

I think I will be getting a single Apistogramma. So far I don't know of any places to sell fry so I don't actually want breeders. I am having problems rehoming my current fish, partly because I am a little embarrassed that I want to return recently purchased fish (CPDs and leopard danios)

What I am going to say in response may sound direct, but it is given in the honest spirit of being concerned for fish, nothing more, and our fish need us to defend them.

We often inherit fish with tanks or fish from those who don't want them, and sometimes we end up with less than desirable tanks. But we must keep in mind that fish have evolved to function in a very specific environment (environment here meaning their water parameters, habitat, numbers, other species sharing that habitat, etc). They will only function best, and thus be healthy and "happy" if we provide those conditions, because the requirements are programmed into the species DNA and we are not going to change them short-term if at all.

Understanding the needs of a species is key to providing a suitable environment. Anything less is frankly cruel to the fish. I have been in situations where I have even had to resort to euthanasia rather than subject fish to less than adequate conditions. But the fish must come first, before my ideas. This is why I react like I do when I see another post about "centrepiece" fish; most tanks cannot manage a centrepiece for reasons of size or other species, so our "idea" has to be set aside for the sake of the fish.

Cories are your decision; either add to them, and again 9-12 is what you want to achieve, or re-home them. They are now in less than ideal conditions, and I know they may seem OK, but which of us can tell how a fish is thinking or responding physiologically to the conditions we force upon it? A dog's thoughts are easier to read than those of a fish. And the fish is forced into whatever situation 24/7 with no hope of escape. So we turn to its environment and assume "happy" means that environment. And as far as we know, it does.

 

[Emma_M]

Byron, I appreciate your thoughts, thank you. I will be adding to the cories - they are good for keeping the tank clean which will only help everyone in there (and me!). I also have found a home for the danios, both the zebras and the CPD. I hope you can see that I am asking all of these questions because I want the fish to be happy and healthy (number one priority), whilst still having a tank that is a pleasure to own - that is important to me because at the end of the day, I am putting creatures (some could be wild, I don't know) in an unnatural habitat for my own pleasure and enjoyment, and so if I was just 'meh' about the tank then it would be pointless. Not sure I am making sense! The problem I am encountering is that there are so many opinions and advice that combined with my own impatience it is proving very hard to know the best solution!

Do you think a single male Apistogramma would be happy? My research suggests yes and that it would be a good solution. I am not desperate for a 'showpiece' as it were but I would like something unusual in there providing it works. This seems like a good fit. What do you think?

 

[Byron]

The problem I am encountering is that there are so many opinions and advice that combined with my own impatience it is proving very hard to know the best solution!

This is a sentiment frequently expressed here. Advice and opinions are all well and good, but I draw the line when it comes to scientific data/evidence. The advantage of a forum like TFF is that there are many members with considerable experience and knowledge, and what each of us says is open for peer review, and that is the basis of science. As for other web sites, I find out who runs/owns it, who contributes to it, and then I know whether the data is reliable or not.

Do you think a single male Apistogramma would be happy? My research suggests yes and that it would be a good solution. I am not desperate for a 'showpiece' as it were but I would like something unusual in there providing it works. This seems like a good fit. What do you think?

Apistogramma I feel are best in bonded pairs or hareems according to the species. But for a single dwarf cichlid, the absolute best bet is the Bolivian Ram, Mikrogeophagus altispinosus. The positives about this dwarf cichlid are many; it is peaceful (when the only cichlid), attractive, and suited to "normal" temperatures (some like the related Blue Ram need more warmth which can pose problems for other species). It has a normal life span of four to five years; my last male was into his ninth year when he died. This species is believed to live in isolation except when spawning, so that may be why it is so good as a single cichlid in a community tank. It is still a cichlid, and he will consider the entire tank (a 5-foot 115g Amazon riverscape) "his territory." Mine used to get annoyed at the cories chomping down on his tab or pellet, and he would poke them out of the way.

 

[Emma_M]

I really like the idea of a Bolivian Ram. I would prefer a German Blue but have read that they are pretty sensitive. My latest pH test (today) was 6.5.

Can Rams and Apostogrammas go together? Say if I were to get a male of each? I highly doubt I will do this but good to know. Many differing statements out there!

 

[Byron]

I really like the idea of a Bolivian Ram. I would prefer a German Blue but have read that they are pretty sensitive. My latest pH test (today) was 6.5.

Can Rams and Apostogrammas go together? Say if I were to get a male of each? I highly doubt I will do this but good to know. Many differing statements out there!

Neotropical cichlid species are best with only one species to an aquarium. There are a very few exceptions when this can work, but not with the dwarf species. In very large tanks where each male could defend his territory, it can work, sometimes.

Both rams are sensitive when it comes to water, but more with fluctuations. The main issue with the common or blue ram (in any of its artificial forms) is temperature. It must have warmth, 80F/27C being minimum, or it will not live its normal lifespan and be weakened along the way. Not a lot of other "tropical" fish can tolerate this high a temperature permanently, so tankmates are not that easy to find. The Bolivian Ram does not carry these problems.