Removing Hair Algae (Black Beard Algae)

[Byron]

Okay I have decided I will go with the CFL's. I can go with 2 6500K cfl bulbs now and in the future if i plan on using CO2 I can just get a higher wattage correct? I plan on using 2 for my 20 long and 2 for my 10 gallon. I want to get a hood for the 10 gallon but I don't really want one for the 20 gallon. What kind of fixtures are my options? I am pretty sure I can find a hood for the 10g easily but for the 20 I really want to be able to see top down.
 
For the price and the compatibility, I think the CFL's are much better than the incandescents.
 
I'm very excited now I know which lights I need to get for my plants. I can't wait to get rid of the LED's and really see my plants flourish. I have the boxes and everything for my old LED lights, would anyone buy them or is it just worth it to keep them and use them on another tank if I happen to get one in the future? (not a heavily planted)

 
How long have you had the LED?  The store might accept a return.  If not, you can post a classified on this forum, or with a local fish club or something.
 
I just did a quick search on Amazon (the US site) and found this incandescent hood for a 20g high (24 inch length tank):
http/www.amazon.com/Perfecto-BC466999-Recessed-Full-Hood/dp/B0006G59TA/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1460155551&sr=8-22&keywords=aquarium+light+hood
 
And here is the same for a 10g (20-inch length) tank:
http/www.amazon.com/Perfecto-Incandescent-Recessed-Hood-Black/dp/B0006G59T0/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1460155741&sr=8-28&keywords=aquarium+light+hood
 
You might find them elsewhere for less, but this is the type you are looking for.  Perfecto seems a reliable manufacturer, I have a couple of their hoods.
 
The bulbs you want are CFL obviously, and Daylight with a Kelvin of 6500K   This is important.  You might have to go to a home improvement (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc) type store to get the 6500K as they are not as common as the lesser types (here anyway).  I would get the 9w bulbs for the 10g, and for the present the same will do in the 20g too.  Later if you need to, you can get higher wattages for the 20g.  These CFL bulbs seems to last years without weakening like the fluorescent tubes.
 
Open top tanks are possible, but I don't like them.  Fish do jump, and usually at night, unexpectedly.  Also, dirt and whatever easily gets in the water, which is not good as even dust can form a film on the surface reducing gas exchange.  And the water cools faster (in winter).
 
Byron.

 

[cooledwhip]

 

Okay I have decided I will go with the CFL's. I can go with 2 6500K cfl bulbs now and in the future if i plan on using CO2 I can just get a higher wattage correct? I plan on using 2 for my 20 long and 2 for my 10 gallon. I want to get a hood for the 10 gallon but I don't really want one for the 20 gallon. What kind of fixtures are my options? I am pretty sure I can find a hood for the 10g easily but for the 20 I really want to be able to see top down.
 
For the price and the compatibility, I think the CFL's are much better than the incandescents.
 
I'm very excited now I know which lights I need to get for my plants. I can't wait to get rid of the LED's and really see my plants flourish. I have the boxes and everything for my old LED lights, would anyone buy them or is it just worth it to keep them and use them on another tank if I happen to get one in the future? (not a heavily planted)

 
How long have you had the LED?  The store might accept a return.  If not, you can post a classified on this forum, or with a local fish club or something.
 
I just did a quick search on Amazon (the US site) and found this incandescent hood for a 20g high (24 inch length tank):
http/www.amazon.com/Perfecto-BC466999-Recessed-Full-Hood/dp/B0006G59TA/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1460155551&sr=8-22&keywords=aquarium+light+hood
 
And here is the same for a 10g (20-inch length) tank:
http/www.amazon.com/Perfecto-Incandescent-Recessed-Hood-Black/dp/B0006G59T0/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1460155741&sr=8-28&keywords=aquarium+light+hood
 
You might find them elsewhere for less, but this is the type you are looking for.  Perfecto seems a reliable manufacturer, I have a couple of their hoods.
 
The bulbs you want are CFL obviously, and Daylight with a Kelvin of 6500K   This is important.  You might have to go to a home improvement (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc) type store to get the 6500K as they are not as common as the lesser types (here anyway).  I would get the 9w bulbs for the 10g, and for the present the same will do in the 20g too.  Later if you need to, you can get higher wattages for the 20g.  These CFL bulbs seems to last years without weakening like the fluorescent tubes.
 
Open top tanks are possible, but I don't like them.  Fish do jump, and usually at night, unexpectedly.  Also, dirt and whatever easily gets in the water, which is not good as even dust can form a film on the surface reducing gas exchange.  And the water cools faster (in winter).
 
Byron.
 

Ok I will get a full top. Does it move out of the way a lot though? I remember when I was a kit we had a small 5/10 gallon and the door to put food in was so small. Like 3 inches by 1 inch it just flapped open to put food in. More like a mini hatch.
 
So for NO co2, I should use 2 9 watt CFL 6500K bulbs? I will buy the hood on amazon. I haven't seen them in stores at all. The BBA is spreading everywhere, I see it more and more every time I go in there. 
 
I remembered that I have a HOB filter, as well as a heater that pertrudes a bit from the tank... Will the hood even go over my tank? 
 
Also I have a 20 gallon LONG and I haven't found a hood for one of those...

 

[Byron]

Ok I will get a full top. Does it move out of the way a lot though? I remember when I was a kit we had a small 5/10 gallon and the door to put food in was so small. Like 3 inches by 1 inch it just flapped open to put food in. More like a mini hatch.
 

 
The two I linked are the usual type, but you may find others.  On these, the front of the hood opens along the entire length, and hinges up.  When I do maintenance and water changes, I remove the hood.
 
 

So for NO co2, I should use 2 9 watt CFL 6500K bulbs?

 
 
Yes.
 

I remembered that I have a HOB filter, as well as a heater that pertrudes a bit from the tank... Will the hood even go over my tank?
 

 
Along the backof these hoods, behind the light fixture, there is a strip of plastic that can be cut out for filters, heaters, etc.
 

Also I have a 20 gallon LONG and I haven't found a hood for one of those...
 

 
This would be the hood for a 29g, the length and width of both are identical.  So you want one that is 30 inches by 12 inches.  I have a Perfecto hood on my 29g, though mine has the fluorescent tube.  You might want to consider the fluorescent over the incandescent here, due to the length of the tank.  A tube will give better light dispersal that two bulbs.

 

[cooledwhip]

Is the plastic hard to cut? I don't have a lot of tools.
 
Also I like the incandescent idea because I can switch them out whenever I want and not have to get rid of the entire hood like the tubes. You brought up all these cons about the tubes like how if I choose to add CO2 I need a new hood and light fixture. How long do the incandescent bulbs last? Will I still be able to have all my plants flourish?
 
Does your 29g have plants in it? Are the plants doing well?
 
If I go flourescent then I will go T5. I did some research and other websites said that usually you only go T8 if you have saltwater or not a lot of plants and I have LOTS of plants. I'll keep my receipt and box and stuff and give you all(Byron) an update on how it works after a week or two. 
 
What type of bulb should I get? Just any ordinary T5 6500K?

 

[Byron]

Is the plastic hard to cut? I don't have a lot of tools.
 

 
I have used ordinary scissors but they have to be sturdy.  An exacto knife works.
 

Also I like the incandescent idea because I can switch them out whenever I want and not have to get rid of the entire hood like the tubes. You brought up all these cons about the tubes like how if I choose to add CO2 I need a new hood and light fixture. How long do the incandescent bulbs last? Will I still be able to have all my plants flourish?
 

 
Fluorescent tubes should be replaced every 12 months (once a year) as by then they are not emitting anywhere near the intensity they do initially.  CFL bulbs seem better in this respect; I have been using these over my 10g and 20g tanks now for 5-6 years, and I have only replaced a bulb when it has burnt out (not lighting at all) and I've seen no effect on the plants.  Algae is next to zero in these two tanks as well, though it is not problematic in the others really, but I do have to be careful to replace the tubes or it can increase.
 
I'm still hesitant on the CO2 relation.  It is one thing to talk about larger and deeper tanks, but the balance in small tanks is much different.
 

If I go flourescent then I will go T5. I did some research and other websites said that usually you only go T8 if you have saltwater or not a lot of plants and I have LOTS of plants. I'll keep my receipt and box and stuff and give you all(Byron) an update on how it works after a week or two. 
 
What type of bulb should I get? Just any ordinary T5 6500K?
 

 
If this is over the 20g long (30-inch length), one T5 tube only might serve; definitely do not get a dual-tube fixture, that would be blinding light in so shallow a tank.
 
You want a tube with 5000K to 6500K.  I don't know the tubes in T5, but there is bound to be one in this range.  My one foray into T5 was a dual-tube 4-foot fixture with two 6500K tubes.  I got this for my 90g when the old T8 gave out, but it was too bright, so I tried it over the 5-foot 115g, and after a week took the fixture back, as it was still way too much light for my purposes.  A single tube might work.
 

Does your 29g have plants in it? Are the plants doing well?
 

 
Yes, but this tank has one T8 tube, 24 inches, which is low to moderate light.  I have chain swords thriving in this tank, but I'm sure this light would not be anywhere near adequate for high-light plants.  I'll attach a couple photos of this tank.  The first two are what it looked like a few years ago in different aquascapes, the third is how it is set up today, as an Amazonian blackwater tank which is primarily wood decor with floating plants.  I stuck a few chain swords in just to see, and they have spread everywhere, though this wasn't my initial intention.  But I feel this tank is really at the limit for plants with this lower lighting.  But again the fish come first...these fish do not like light over them, it is completely unnatural, and that was my goal, to have an authentic habitat for the species here.
 
Byron.

 

[cooledwhip]

I will be buying a single T5 tube 6500K. Thanks for all the advice and your tanks really are amazing. Do you have more posts about your tanks? EX plant IDS and substrate and stuff?
 
I will try and find a hood today at the store. If not I will buy one online.

 

[Byron]

Thank you.  All my tanks have Quikrete Play Sand for the substrate.  I changed all of them over from fine gravel over a couple years.  I'd be happy to ID specific plants anytime.  B.

 

[cooledwhip]

Thank you.  All my tanks have Quikrete Play Sand for the substrate.  I changed all of them over from fine gravel over a couple years.  I'd be happy to ID specific plants anytime.  B.

Ugh.. I just went to the pet store and they only had the T8's that were in my price range. They had a single T5 fixture for $119 as their cheapest. I looked on amazon and found this:
http/www.amazon.com/Odyssea-6500K-Aquarium-Light-Lamps/dp/B019E8LLPG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1460240636&sr=8-5&keywords=T5+odyssea+light
 
I would only use 1 T5 bulb but this is all I could find. Would this be alright? 
 
I didn't care too much for the hood anyway.

 

[HarpyFishLover]

As long as we are talking about lighting and algae, I have one sort-of related question. Apparently somebody I know used to keep fish. He and I were talking about his old reef tank, and he said to replace the lighting about once a month, as something in the color balance will cause overnight algae growth. Is this true?

 

[Byron]

 

Thank you.  All my tanks have Quikrete Play Sand for the substrate.  I changed all of them over from fine gravel over a couple years.  I'd be happy to ID specific plants anytime.  B.

Ugh.. I just went to the pet store and they only had the T8's that were in my price range. They had a single T5 fixture for $119 as their cheapest. I looked on amazon and found this:
http/www.amazon.com/Odyssea-6500K-Aquarium-Light-Lamps/dp/B019E8LLPG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1460240636&sr=8-5&keywords=T5+odyssea+light
 
I would only use 1 T5 bulb but this is all I could find. Would this be alright? 
 
I didn't care too much for the hood anyway.
 

 
Most of the dual-tube fixtures willonly work with both tubes; removing one will mean the other will not light at all.  If the tubes are individually wired to the ballasts and they have individual switches they are independent (lighting individually), but this is not normal as it means much more expense.  I would certainly not get a dual-tube in T5, that is very bright lighting.

As long as we are talking about lighting and algae, I have one sort-of related question. Apparently somebody I know used to keep fish. He and I were talking about his old reef tank, and he said to replace the lighting about once a month, as something in the color balance will cause overnight algae growth. Is this true?

Reef (saltwater) lighting is very different from freshwater.  The intensity of the light diminishes as the tube burns, but I would doubt the spectrum would change so much.  But even so, I cannot imagine anyone replacing lighting every month...the expense would be astronomical.

 

[cooledwhip]

Ok... I already ordered it because I couldn't wait any longer for light fixture.
 
What fixture should I get then? I just want a single T5 tube. That is literally all I want. Nothing more. Why is it so hard to find a fixture?

 

[Byron]

Ok... I already ordered it because I couldn't wait any longer for light fixture.
 
What fixture should I get then? I just want a single T5 tube. That is literally all I want. Nothing more. Why is it so hard to find a fixture?

 
See if they will stop the order.  You can probably return it, though that will mean shipping charges, but still less than the cost.
 
We are considering light for the 20g long (30 inch tank length), correct?  And you still intend CO2?  Assuming tube lengths to be 24 inches (I suspect most fixtures/hoods for this size tank woill require 24-inch tubes, whether T5 or T8), a single T5 tube or a dual T8 would probably work.  I still say probably, because even this is a fair degree of light, and this is a relatively shallow tank.  The earlier photos showed what a single T8 tube of 24 inches over my 29g tank achieves, and this is a much deeper tank.  But that would not grow high-light carpet plants as I said.
 
CO2 in small tanks is not usual, because it means a lot of additional expense for little benefit.  There is a lot of CO2 produced in a healthy aquarium once the biological system is established (a few months usually).  This might be sufficient for your carpet plants.  Some other members who have gone down this road might be able to offer better advice.  I just want you to realize the nature of all this.
 
Byron.

 

[cooledwhip]

 

Ok... I already ordered it because I couldn't wait any longer for light fixture.
 
What fixture should I get then? I just want a single T5 tube. That is literally all I want. Nothing more. Why is it so hard to find a fixture?

 
See if they will stop the order.  You can probably return it, though that will mean shipping charges, but still less than the cost.
 
We are considering light for the 20g long (30 inch tank length), correct?  And you still intend CO2?  Assuming tube lengths to be 24 inches (I suspect most fixtures/hoods for this size tank woill require 24-inch tubes, whether T5 or T8), a single T5 tube or a dual T8 would probably work.  I still say probably, because even this is a fair degree of light, and this is a relatively shallow tank.  The earlier photos showed what a single T8 tube of 24 inches over my 29g tank achieves, and this is a much deeper tank.  But that would not grow high-light carpet plants as I said.
 
CO2 in small tanks is not usual, because it means a lot of additional expense for little benefit.  There is a lot of CO2 produced in a healthy aquarium once the biological system is established (a few months usually).  This might be sufficient for your carpet plants.  Some other members who have gone down this road might be able to offer better advice.  I just want you to realize the nature of all this.
 
Byron.
 

Yes this is for the 20 gallon long. I think my substrate is about an inch to 1.5 inches deep in some places. For carpet I am growing Glosso and some S. Repens, but you saw my plant list. Are those high light demanding plants? I still am considering the T5 single tube because everywhere else online people say that for a planted aquarium, CO2 or no CO2, that a T5 is standard for a planted aquarium. I understand how my tank is very shallow, and I agree.
 
I still plan on getting the T5, and if it's too bright then I just return it or keep it for a different tank in the future.
 
With no CO2 (starting off with no co2 like I said I might add co2 if need be) would a single T5 be ok?
 
I want to order this asap. I have 1 inch long hair algae now.

 

[Byron]

everywhere else online people say that for a planted aquarium, CO2 or no CO2, that a T5 is standard for a planted aquarium.
 

 
This is simply not true.  It is as inaccurate as the old "rule" that one still comes across of 2 watts per gallon, or similar.  There is no way anyone can suggest such absolutes because there are so many factors in the equation.  You thought my tanks in the earlier photos were "amazing," and there is no where near this level of light intensity, and those tanks were running for several years.
 
I'll give you a background on T5 lighting.  Back a few decades ago, aquarists had the basic T12 fluorescent, incandescent and metal halide.  T8 improved upon T12.  Marine tanks with corals need a lot of light, and staying with fluorescent for purposes of our discussion, this meant several parallel T8 tubes over the tanks to achieve this.  T5 was developed primarily for marine tanks, as two of these could more than equal three of the T8.  T5 comes in Normal Output, which is very close to a good T8, HO (high output), and even VHO (very high output).  The NO T5 is rarely seen, because it is more expensive that T8 but provides little additional benefit.
 
A few years ago my ageing T8 dual tube fixture over the 90g tank gave out.  I couldn't find dual tube T8's anywhere, so I went with a dual T5.  It was far too bright, so I tried these over the larger 5-foot 115g, and for a full week.  I realized this was still way more light, the fish were obviously bothered, and algae already began appearing.  Back it went, and I ended up buying a shop fixture at Home Depot and fitting it inside the old housing.
 
W

ith no CO2 (starting off with no co2 like I said I might add co2 if need be) would a single T5 be ok?
 

 
I would think this manageable, with floating plants.

 

[cooledwhip]

 

everywhere else online people say that for a planted aquarium, CO2 or no CO2, that a T5 is standard for a planted aquarium.
 

 
This is simply not true.  It is as inaccurate as the old "rule" that one still comes across of 2 watts per gallon, or similar.  There is no way anyone can suggest such absolutes because there are so many factors in the equation.  You thought my tanks in the earlier photos were "amazing," and there is no where near this level of light intensity, and those tanks were running for several years.
 
I'll give you a background on T5 lighting.  Back a few decades ago, aquarists had the basic T12 fluorescent, incandescent and metal halide.  T8 improved upon T12.  Marine tanks with corals need a lot of light, and staying with fluorescent for purposes of our discussion, this meant several parallel T8 tubes over the tanks to achieve this.  T5 was developed primarily for marine tanks, as two of these could more than equal three of the T8.  T5 comes in Normal Output, which is very close to a good T8, HO (high output), and even VHO (very high output).  The NO T5 is rarely seen, because it is more expensive that T8 but provides little additional benefit.
 
A few years ago my ageing T8 dual tube fixture over the 90g tank gave out.  I couldn't find dual tube T8's anywhere, so I went with a dual T5.  It was far too bright, so I tried these over the larger 5-foot 115g, and for a full week.  I realized this was still way more light, the fish were obviously bothered, and algae already began appearing.  Back it went, and I ended up buying a shop fixture at Home Depot and fitting it inside the old housing.
 
W
ith no CO2 (starting off with no co2 like I said I might add co2 if need be) would a single T5 be ok?
 

 
I would think this manageable, with floating plants.
 


 
okay. where can I get a dual T8 fixture. I think that's what I'll go with. I couldn't find one on amazon. Is the dual T8 OP? the only reason I am not going with a single T8 is because you said you have a single T8 on the 29g and you can't grow  carpet. (which I am doing)