Please Help-very Sick Angelfish

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littleT

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Dec 18, 2007
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Hi Everybody
It has been a long time since I have been on here and I'm now dealing with something awful that is killing my fish. :shout: I have had plenty of advice from other forums but just cannot pin point the problem.
Short run down of my tank info.
Ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
ph 7.2
temp now at 84 for disease.
Two live plants started it all.
Tank size 44 with two adult angelfish. I use Prime as my water conditioner and I use Api liquid tests.
Tank has been set up for 6 months. Problem started about 3 weeks to a month after the live plants where added. I cycled the tank with fish food and bio-zyme it took about 3 weeks and a couple of days.
This is the symptoms that they are having
Blood coming from anus
darting
one not eating the other one is eating very little
stringy translucent to gray feces
flashing
rubbing on objects
twitching there side fins
hiding
one of them has an outline of red on his dorsal fin and red at the base of his dorsal fin no where else
The two juveniles I had in the tank has died this has been going on for a couple of month already.
The juveniles had some different symptoms
rapid gill movement that started it all
hiding
not eating
resting on bottom
swimming in circles
red patches on body
I took these out and what treating them in a 10 gallon tank
O.K here is a list of medications I have used on the 44 gallon tank already
Pro quick cure
Parasite clear
general cure
prazipro
maracyn two
not in that order
I'm now treating with Nitrofurance.
This is the worse disease I have ever dealt with and it has been a long rough road and I'm ready to give up at this point.
The new symptom has been the blood from anus no swelling or worms just blood if anybody know what this awful disease can be please let me know. Help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
littleT
 
How sure about those stats are you - nitrate shouldn't be reading 0. Do another test, following the instructions to the letter and post up the result please.
 
I posted in TAFII for you as well;

I would start with the metro as well, in a separate tank. 40mg/gallon, daily 50% water changes, with a daily remed. Bring that temperature up, close to 90F is good, make sure you have plenty of aeration, warmer water holds less O2. Once they are eating you can mix a bit in with some frozen brine shrimp, this gets right to the problem.

The hiding & stringy feces are a common thing through this, these symptoms, along with not eating, are the signs of internal protizoa.

I would go with an antibiotic along with this if these were my fish. 20mg/gallon oxytetracycline, same water change, same redose. Continue with both for at least 10 days.

The biggest problem here is what to treat as the priority ailment. Internal protizoans with metro requires a higher temperature. Bacterial ailments will often have better results at a lower temperature. The large daily water changes in themselves will help with the bacterial issue, but not with the protizoal problem, which is why I would start with the metro, considering the bacterial situation secondary. Others may have a different approach, but the bacteria in question don't seem to be a strain that reproduces, or takes down fish quickly if you have been dealing with this since November.
 
How sure about those stats are you - nitrate shouldn't be reading 0. Do another test, following the instructions to the letter and post up the result please.

Hi tenohfive
Very sure because I have checked time and time again because I thought the same thing you are thinking that something was wrong with the nitrate reading but I started out with about 5 then when I added the live plants in went down to zero. I done some research and I read that it was normal for that to happen with live plants and algae in the tank. Do you think other wise?

I posted in TAFII for you as well;

I would start with the metro as well, in a separate tank. 40mg/gallon, daily 50% water changes, with a daily remed. Bring that temperature up, close to 90F is good, make sure you have plenty of aeration, warmer water holds less O2. Once they are eating you can mix a bit in with some frozen brine shrimp, this gets right to the problem.

The hiding & stringy feces are a common thing through this, these symptoms, along with not eating, are the signs of internal protizoa.

I would go with an antibiotic along with this if these were my fish. 20mg/gallon oxytetracycline, same water change, same redose. Continue with both for at least 10 days.

The biggest problem here is what to treat as the priority ailment. Internal protizoans with metro requires a higher temperature. Bacterial ailments will often have better results at a lower temperature. The large daily water changes in themselves will help with the bacterial issue, but not with the protizoal problem, which is why I would start with the metro, considering the bacterial situation secondary. Others may have a different approach, but the bacteria in question don't seem to be a strain that reproduces, or takes down fish quickly if you have been dealing with this since November.
Hi Tolak
I posted my reply on the TAFII for you.
Thanks for your help.
 

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