Please Advise: Cichlid Hasn't Eaten In 14 Days!

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mako22

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About 3 weeks ago, my cichlid was thrashing around the tank, scraping himself up and basically freaking out. I did some reading and determined he had an internal parasite. After treatment, he is no longer freaking out and seems calm and even is engaging in what I'm interpreting as mating rituals with my other albino tiger cichlid (locking lips, tail shimmy's, etc). Problem is now he is spending most of his time near the top of the tank and won't eat anything. (He may eat a flake or two once I walk away but I haven't observed it - a far cry from when he used to jump half out of the water to eat pellets out of my hand!) After some more reading, I have learned he may have sustained internal damage from the parasites that is irreversable, and sadly he may slowly starve to death. Can anyone advise me if this might be the case??? Is there anything I can do??? (Note: I observed some yellowish/green waste hanging from him today)
 
Gday, whats a tiger cichlid? not sure on this one? latin name would be great if you know it please :good:

also how long has the tank been set up? flakes not the best for cichlids,have you looked into a good quality cichlid food like hilraki? also chopped prawns / bloodworm etc, a varied diets best, My old jaguar cichlid<Parachromis managuensis stopped eating for well over a month, after i moved him to another tank he went on a fast, not liking the sound of the poo mind, hope someone can help on that :good:
 
He is a 10" Oscar, looks like pic below. Thanks for the response but the food is not the issue - I have Hiraki pellets but mix in flakes so they get a well rounded diet. He ususally loves the flakes and pellets, not can't get him near the food...
 

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Hmmm Oscar ok, i love oscars, he does look like hes been battling, thats the problem with cichlids mating and aggresstion looks sooo much alike its untrue, oscars are real sulker's and if its infact aggresstion and not mating then he may sulk for a good while to come, also a good thing to try is de shelled pea's these help with the oscars digestive tract, Even moving a rock around in a oscar tank or a waterchange can trigger a "sulk" from these beautys...

what are you water readings? also whats the temp of the water at present?
 
Thanks for the links, they were helpful !!!
 
Thanks again, will try the peas - had them for about 9 months...they seem to like each other most of the time I'm hoping it's just mating going on!
 
The usual stuff is needed;

Tank size:
pH:
ammonia:
nitrite:
nitrate:
kH:
gH:
tank temp:

Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior):

Volume and Frequency of water changes:

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank:

Tank inhabitants:

Recent additions to your tank (living or decoration):

Exposure to chemicals:

What medication has this fish been treated with already, and what country are you from?
 
The usual stuff is needed;

Tank size: 55 gal
pH:
ammonia:
nitrite: > all in normal range except ammonia is a little high - fish are not laboring or breathing heavy.
nitrate:
kH:
gH:
tank temp: 77 F

Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior):
One oscar who had parasite is not eating. Others are healthy and active. Oscars are also either courting or fighting lately, oscar who is not eating seems to be initiating with mouth wide open and locking, tail shimmying. They appear to be quite friendly and always swim around together normally. They seem to tolerate the catfish but frankly he seems to annoy them swimming under them and grazing them with his barbs!

Volume and Frequency of water changes: Weekly

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank: Amquel, PolyAqua, StressZyme, Aquarium salt

Tank inhabitants: 2 Oscars and one clown catfish added 2 months ago.

Recent additions to your tank (living or decoration): catfish

Exposure to chemicals: None

What medication has this fish been treated with already, and what country are you from? Jungle Labs Parasite Clear (2 doses as directed). USA
 
Tank is too small for two 9 month old Oscars. There is no such thing as ammonia being a little high,It is either zero in a cycled tank ,,or it isn't. Anything above zero is toxic to lethal .
If both fish are Males, they will begin to beat hell out of each other now that they have reached sexual maturity and only one will be the winner.
Water changes in the 55 gal will need to be twice weekly 50 percent and filter should be capable of filtering 400 gal per hour minimum.
Would feed quality pellet foods along with vegetable matter like shelled peas.would not offer live feeder fish of any kind especially store bought.
 
Tank is too small for two 9 month old Oscars. There is no such thing as ammonia being a little high,It is either zero in a cycled tank ,,or it isn't. Anything above zero is toxic to lethal .
If both fish are Males, they will begin to beat hell out of each other now that they have reached sexual maturity and only one will be the winner.
Water changes in the 55 gal will need to be twice weekly 50 percent and filter should be capable of filtering 400 gal per hour minimum.
Would feed quality pellet foods along with vegetable matter like shelled peas.would not offer live feeder fish of any kind especially store bought.

Thank you for your opinions, I truly appreciate it. That being said, I should note the fish are undoubtedly older than 9 months, I bought them as adults. I also don't believe this is a sudden battle to the death that is completely unrelated to the traumatic situation that occurred - the internal parasite to the larger Oscar. Prior to that everyone was getting along fine and eating heartily. Any other thoughts?
 
Internal protizoans, most likely hexamita or spironucleus. Get a separate tank, a 20 gallon will work. Pick up some metronidazole, Seachem carries a product called Metroplex, National Fish Pharmacy carries metro. You will be bringing the tank temperature up to the mid to upper 80's F, so make sure there is plenty of aeration. A filter will help, but is not needed, as you will be doing large daily water changes.

Dose with metro at 40mg/gallon, with at least a 50% water change daily & remed. Don't feed for the first few days, on the third day sprinkle some metro on something meaty, for an adult oscar beefheart works well for this. Feed a bit of this only, with the meds, every other day. Continue for 10-14 days.

These protizoans are common in cichlids, and are often a normal part of the digestive floura. When stress reduces a fish's immune response they can grow beyond what would be considered part of this normal floura. Aggression is stressful, as is any amount of ammonia in the tank.

Generally for an adult oscar the minimum tank size would be a 75 gallon, due to the footprint. That 48"x18" area provides enough turning room for a fish that size, 4x the fish's size one dimension & 2x the fish's size the other is usually suggested for larger fish, though this can vary by the species.

A standard 55 gallon, with the short side being 13" is a bit too tight for an adult oscar to turn, and does not offer the space needed for a non-paired couple of fish to safely establish territory. I agree with the tank being too small for both fish, it is barely adequate for one.
 
Internal protizoans, most likely hexamita or spironucleus. Get a separate tank, a 20 gallon will work. Pick up some metronidazole, Seachem carries a product called Metroplex, National Fish Pharmacy carries metro. You will be bringing the tank temperature up to the mid to upper 80's F, so make sure there is plenty of aeration. A filter will help, but is not needed, as you will be doing large daily water changes.

Dose with metro at 40mg/gallon, with at least a 50% water change daily & remed. Don't feed for the first few days, on the third day sprinkle some metro on something meaty, for an adult oscar beefheart works well for this. Feed a bit of this only, with the meds, every other day. Continue for 10-14 days.

These protizoans are common in cichlids, and are often a normal part of the digestive floura. When stress reduces a fish's immune response they can grow beyond what would be considered part of this normal floura. Aggression is stressful, as is any amount of ammonia in the tank.

Generally for an adult oscar the minimum tank size would be a 75 gallon, due to the footprint. That 48"x18" area provides enough turning room for a fish that size, 4x the fish's size one dimension & 2x the fish's size the other is usually suggested for larger fish, though this can vary by the species.

A standard 55 gallon, with the short side being 13" is a bit too tight for an adult oscar to turn, and does not offer the space needed for a non-paired couple of fish to safely establish territory. I agree with the tank being too small for both fish, it is barely adequate for one.

Thanks for the response. Not sure if you saw my whole post but i did treat for internal parasite for 4 days and all the symptoms that he was showing subsided. Are you suggesting that there still may be parasite present? Also, I appreciate the detailed explanation on the tank size - looks like the local pet store guy steered me wrong. In any event, getting a bigger tank is not an option really and I don't think tank size suddenly caused this problem. As I mentioned, everyone was peaceful and happy prior to the parasite, didn't seem to mind tank size, now he's just not eating. Any other thoughts?
 
Yes, I did see the four day medication length, which is insufficient. Tank size didn't cause the problem, but it is a contributing factor, in that it did not allow enough room for the fish being chased to find safety, or the fish doing the chasing to establish territory. The parasite was there prior to the aggression issues, cichlids needing territory caused stress, which affects immune response.
 

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