Nitrite/nitrate Question....

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DeanoL83

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Hi guys,
 
So I finally got the master test kit and was able to do proper tests last night.  I unfortunately found this forum AFTER I added fish to my tank so I was unable to do a fishless cycle.
 
My readings were:
Ammonia - Between 0 and 0.25, closer to 0.
Nitrite - 5ppm
Nitrate - about 100ppm
pH - about 7.9
 
 
From my readings I understand the Ammonia reading is ok, but the nitrite and nitrate are too high.
 
Does this mean that the first phase of the cylce is occurring - that ammonia has been converted into nitrite.  And that the second phase, nitrite to nitrate is in the process at the moment?
 
Also, I am currently doing water changes of about 25% every second day and once a week doing a big 50% change. I am also adding Seachem Prime to de-toxify the nitrite and nitrate that is in the system.  Is this good enough?  Or do I need to make more drastic changes?
 
Thanks for the advice :)
Dean
 
 
 
The cycle is complete when you only have nitrates showing :) Just wait a while longer for more bacteria to grow

But if there are fish in there, do a waterchange ASAP. Anything past 40ppm nitrates will harm fish
 
Hi Dean. You're tank is in the cycling process, but with a mature filter you shouldn't be seeing any ammonia unless there's a problem, the same with nitrite. Until your filter is fully cycled your fish will be under stress so keep a close eye on them. You haven't mentioned what fish you have or how many, some are more delicate than other's. When your tank cycled stocking needs to be done slowly and progressively.
 
Thanks - that's exactly what I thought.  The cycle is underway, but not complete.
 
I just did a 50% water change, and will do another 50% everyday until the cycle is complete.  Thankyou :)
 
Thanks for the reply, glad to know I am slowly understanding the basics of it all.
 
I did a 50% water change today to alleviate some of the nitrite and nitrate.  I will keep doing a 50% change daily until the nitrite also reads zero.
 
I have mainly livebearers - mollies and platties, and tetras - rummynose, serpae and neon.
 
I wish I found this forum before I got the tank as I know I have stocked the tank too much too soon, but have no other viable option at the moment apart from continuing with daily water changes until the tank is cycled. 
 
 
Anything past 40ppm nitrates will harm fish
 
I sure would like to know whether you are talking about 40 ppm of Nitrate as measured by a hobby kit using the total ion scale or the nitrogen scale used in most research? And then it would be great to see a link or two to any sort of research which backs up the above statement. Bear in mind if you find such research that nitrate damage is species specific. Most of the most nitrate sensitive species are ones which are never kept in tanks such as salmon or trout.
 
Just as an fyi- 10 ppm of NO3-N would read as 44 ppm on an API kit. Multiply or divide y 4.4 to convert between the two scales. In the USA the maximum permissible limit for nitrate in tap water is that 10 ppm NO3-N level.
 
I have two issues here to comment on, if I may.
 
First is nitrite.  While salt does help, I would not use this here.  The tank contains livebearers which can handle salt better, but the soft water fish (the tetra) cannot and adding salt to the water will stress these fish considerably.  Prime is a better option.  Prime binds nitrite making it non-toxic; bacteria will take this up as readily, so no effect on cycling.  However, this binding becomes ineffective after 24-36 hours at which time the non-toxic nitrite will revert to being toxic again (according to Seachem's scientists, I asked them).  So, we do the daily 50% water changes to reduce the nitrite in whichever form it may be, using Prime to detoxify the remaining nitrite.  Continue this until the test shows zero nitrite for consecutive days.
 
Second on the nitrate.  Scientific study on aquarium nitrate is minimal, as hobbyists have long assumed that it was not all that lethal.  This is false thinking.  Nitrate is just another form of nitrogen, and while nitrogen is essential to life it is also very toxic to all life.  Dr. Neale Monks recommends not allowing nitrate to rise above 20 ppm in any aquarium, and to keep it under 10 ppm if at all possible; Neale further writes that cichlids may likely be affected permanently by nitrates of 20 ppm or higher.  Over on the cichlid site, Mark Elieson agrees with this, and suggests that nitrates and not diet may well be the cause of Malawi Bloat in rift lake fish.  You can read similar advice on low nitrates (below 20 ppm) from many reliable authors in the leading periodicals.
 
When one remembers that none of the fish we keep in an aquarium are exposed to nitrates in the wild...and there are many test readings to prove that nitrate in tropical streams is so low it usually cannot even be detected with scientific instruments...it only makes sense that subjecting fish to high nitrates is going against nature.  All fish have evolved to function at their best within specific parameters, and if one wants healthy fish, one should aim for these parameters.  The scientific studies will undoubtedly catch up one day.
 
Byron.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Byron your information was extremely helpful and informative. I had already put in two small teaspoons of salt so hope that will not have a great effect on the tetra. I will continue with the 50% daily water changes and will add seachem prime each time. I am assuming that I need to take daily water samples to.

Thanks so much again. Am learning a lot here in this forum and appreciate everyone's time and advice
 
I will observe that many fish will withstand a salt treatment for ich. The amount of time the salt would be in the water for nitrite is not much different from this if anything it would be less time. However, there is one huge difference in using salt as a med and using the chloride in salt for dealing with nitrite and that is the amount of salt involved.
 
Lets use an example of a 50 gallon tank which has some decor and substrate in it and maybe some live plants too. So we will figure that, since this is a USA tank where the the glass counts in the volume, that we should reduce that 50 gals by 15% to 42.5 gallons. Then lets assume we need to deal with a nitrite level of 10 ppm. Exactly how much salt would have to be added to the tank? Because we need to work with the weight of the salt, we have to use mg/l instead of ppm because we can weigh mg but not ppm. In water mg/l and ppm are pretty much equivalent so that makes things easy.
 
Step 1. Convert 42.5 gal. to liters by multiplying the gals by 3.875 to get 165 liters.
Step 2. Multiply 165 x 10 = 1,650 mg to get the amount of chloride needed to deal with 10 ppm of nitrite.
Step 3. Multiply 1,650 mg x 1.5 since chloride is roughly 2/3 of salt and we want 1,650 mg of chloride, so we need 2,475 mg of salt.
Step 4. Divide 2,475mg/1000 to get the gram weight we need = 2.475 grams of salt.
 
1/4 teaspoon of table salt weighs 2 grams, so, to deal with the 10 ppm of nitrite, one needs to add 3/8 of a teaspoon of salt to 42.5 gallons of water to combat that 10 ppm of nitrite. By comparison, to treat ich in this same tank the suggested dose is often 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon, or 42.5 teaspoons of salt. I have seen suggestions that even more salt than that be used. Clearly the concentrations of salt here and the potential affect on TDS is very minimal.
 
So what I wonder is if you put tetras into 42.5 gallons of water with 3/8 of a teaspoon of salt for the period of time it takes for the bacteria that consume the nitrite to establish, exactly how hard will this be on them? And lets not forget, as the nitrite levels begin to drop, so too can the amount of salt in the water.
 
On the other hand I know that Prime is a reducing agent, there is no way I would ever dose it at 5 times for anything. And then there is this "scientific" explanation from SeaChem about how Prime works to detoxify nitrite and nitrate:
Q: How does Prime make a difference in reducing Nitrates?
 
A: The detoxification of nitrite and nitrate by Prime (when used at elevated levels) is not well understood from a mechanistic standpoint. The most likely explanation is that the nitrite and nitrate is removed in a manner similar to the way ammonia is removed; i.e. it is bound and held in a inert state until such time that bacteria in the biological filter are able to take a hold of it, break it apart and use it. Two other possible scenarios are reduction to nitrogen (N2) gas or conversion into a benign organic nitrogen compound.

I wish we had some more "concrete" explanation, but the end result is the same, it does actually detoxify nitrite and nitrate. This was unexpected chemically and thus initially we were not even aware of this, however we received numerous reports from customers stating that when they overdosed with Prime they were able to reduce or eliminate the high death rates they experienced when their nitrite and nitrate levels were high. We have received enough reports to date to ensure that this is no fluke and is in fact a verifiable function of the product.
 
A great way to do science- our customers report. Can you imagine if all science were done like this? Nothing like controlled testing under lab conditions. Can SeaChem not measure nitrogen gas or detect the presence of a newly created organic compound?
 
I am sorry, but I am not in awe of SeaChem and all its products. A lot of what they do is "proprietary" which is a very clever way of never providing any scientific support for one's claims or details which could be verified independently. While they make some excellent products, I also believe they are experts at obfuscating certain issues in the pursuit of sales. Autotrophic nitrifying bacteria is a perfect example. Another is they state Prime won't slow a cycle, yet Dr. Hovanec, one of the researchers who identified tank bacteria, writes this about cycling a tank: "Do not add ammonia removers to bind the ammonia – overdosing with these products will just increase the cycling time."
 
Lets consider Prime. For a start, it also will affect the TDS of water some, the more you add the more it affects them. But also it will definitely remove oxygen. Start overdosing in a tank which may be a bit low in DO levels and you can have a problem. Overdose it in a tank where fish are already affected by nitrite and are short of O and it could become worse. Given the potentials here of overdosing Prime vs the potentials for that 3/8 teaspoon of salt, I am wondering which is really the greatest danger for the fish.
 
And then lets not forget about how nitrite works in a fish and what can be done to correct it. Normally, one cannot remove nitrite from fish, it has to work its way out naturally and it takes a day or two. The one thing I understand that can help reverse the effects of nitrite in a fish is Methylene Blue. But once it goes into the water, one will have a lot of trouble doing any testing as the water will be blue and test colors will no longer be rendered properly. It can also stain things in a tank. The standard treatment for dealing with nitrite its to stop it from entering the fish and this allows what is already inside to work its  way out. The chloride in the salt does this while not affecting the cycling.
 
And we have not even touched on doing repeated 50% water changes and the added stress it can place on the fish especially when its a relatively new tank with new fish. When it comes to stress, a simple test for one form is if a fish bolts for cover it is being stressed. Longer term some inhabitants of a tank may become accustomed to water changes but many do not.
 
In conclusion, there are always at least two sides to every issues, so here is an interesting take on Prime from another point of view http://tbas1.com/forum/index.php?topic=149.0
It is an interest set of observations and I am not so sure i agree with the conclusions. I think dosing Prime at normal levels for control of chlorine and chloramine and the mild ammonia detoxifiying needed for that are just fine. It is the rest of it with which I have issues.
 
TwoTankAmin and I have discussed this off-line, and my thanks to him for noticing an implied misunderstanding in my previous response concerning Prime.  I'd like to take this opportunity to set the record straight.
 
I myself will not use Prime because it does too much and I do not want anything messing with nitrite and nitrate in my tanks (they are all planted).  I only advocate the use of Prime in cycling issues, and perhaps when one has nitrite or nitrate in the source (tap or well) water.  I also recommend never using more than what is needed for the water being added.  There is no point whatever in dosing Prime (or any other conditioner) for the total tank volume when one is changing half or less of the water.  TwoTankAmin has set out the reasons.  The more chemical concoctions one dumps into an aquarium, the greater the risks.  And any of these things do affect fish.  The relationship between fish and their environment, water, is unlike that between any terrestrial animal and air.  The more I delve into this hobby the more I realize this.  Every substance put into the water does have an impact on the fish's physiology, however small.  One must be very careful.
 
Byron.
 
An interesting read, TwoTank and Byron. Thanks for sharing your insights. I have never used the Prime products, instead relying on water changes as my primary method for dealing with cycles or mini-cycles in my tanks. Regarding Deano and his current cycling woes, I would have simply recommended daily 50% water changes to get nitrite and nitrate levels more under control. Is there agreement on this approach, or did I miss something? 
 
My answer would be, "It depends." Problems that arise as a direct result of cycling with fish are a unique situation in an aquarium. It is only done once and it is over. Having issues in an established tank with nitrogen compounds is a different matter. In the case of cycling we want ammonia, nitrite and ultimately nitrate in a tank. But we want them towards a specific end and when that end is achieved two of the three will be gone.
 
Because of how nitrite works and how chloride can block this, dealing with it is different than how one approaches ammonia or nitrate. During a cycle we want both ammonia and nitrite to rise as high as possible (within limits). The reason is simple, the higher these things can go within the acceptable range, the faster the needed bacteria will develop. So with this in mind there are basically two ways one can deal with nitrite. One is water changes which will certainly extend the cycle and the other is the salt/chloride method I outlined above. By opting for the later method one can allow nitrite to rise fairly high and not be harming the fish and yet without being chemically altered in any way. This means the bacteria can get it all and they will develop to desired levels faster.
 
The neat thing is that the facts of how the cycle will proceed is that nitrite will start to rise. As it does you begin adding the salt. So that "huge" 3/8 teaspoon in 42.5 gals. Doesn't all go in on day one. You only put in as much salt as needed for a given level of nitrite. So if your first appearance of nitrite is 2 ppm, you only would need 1/5 of that 3/8 teaspoon. As nitrite rises. So should the amount of salt in the water.
 
But all of this begins to get complicated, especially for the new fish keeper. And this brings me back to the same old thing- Always Cycle Without Fish none of this will matter then. And that is why the two rescue articles here came to be. The first and best options are to solve the problem by using fishless techniques to fix the problem- get the fish out or add the bacteria in. The second article is there to intimidate new fish keepers who think they can pull it off without harming or killing fish. If you don't know the sort of things in Part II about ammonia and nitrite, the odds are against you. If you have the wrong sorts of fish or too many, the odds are really against you. If you think that repeated frequent large water changes are not stressful to new fish in a new tank, you are fighting an uphill battle.
 
So my answer would be, if a new keeper is still foolish enough to do a fish in cycle, avoid changing water changes unless NH3 approaches .05 ppm and/or Total Ammonia hits 2 ppm. Always monitor the fish and if they show any signs of ammonia poisoning, change the water no mater what the readings. In terms of nitrite, use salt and do not change water unless it exceeds 15 ppm on an API or similar kit which reads total ions. Over that level it will begin to harm bacteria and slow or halt a cycle. Again, monitor the fish and if they do not show signs of improving from the salt relative to nitrite just as they would after a water change, then do the water change.
 
As for nitrate, Byron's way is great. Plants love the stuff for the most part same as they do with ammonium. But not everybody has a tank full of live plants. So lets talk about them. There are only two ways to get the nitrate out of fw tanks. One is water changes and the other is facultative aerobic bacteria. These guys normally use oxygen. But when faced with no free oxygen they can use bound oxygen. Bound as in nitrate which is NO3. The bacteria can strip out those Os and use them and that leaves nitrogen which is basically harmless. All they need is to be living where there is nitrate but no free O, aka an anoxic environment. This requires having special media.
 
Denitrification is the best way to handle problem nitrate in an aquarium (including having it in one's tap), imo. Water changes are next best and I detest chemical means. There is also the option of a veggie filter which is basically plants, just not in the main tank but in a smaller sump style container just for them. The water goes through this and nitrate is removed and the water goes back into the tank. As we can see, depending on the level of nitrate involved and the ability of the fish keeper to implement a solution, there are a number of ways to deal with nitrate. What levels may be harmful is still open to debate, especially as it is fish specific as are most issues like this.
 
I think I agree with (most of) post #15.  Except perhaps on the water changes, and what they do.
 
First to your direct question, Gvilleguy, water changes alone is lessening the problem but not eliminating it.  If there is ammonia or nitrite in the tank water, doing a 50% water change will reduce it by half.  So half is still there.  Daily water changes means the poor fish are being poisoned by whichever for a period of time, and this will cause trouble down the road.  Ammonia at very low levels is toxic to all life forms in an aquarium.  As for how low, I have found most suggest that between 0.5 and 1 ppm there can be long-term or permanent gill damage.  If our basic test kits are detecting ammonia, it is probably too high and likely having negative impact on fish.  As for nitrite, fish readily absorb this from the water passing through the gills, and it combines with the hemoglobin in their blood, forming methaemoglobin.  As a consequence, the blood cannot transport oxygen as easily and this can become fatal [TwoTankAmin has gone into this in more detail].  At 0.25 ppm nitrite begins to affect fish after a short period; at 0.5 ppm it becomes dangerous, and at 1 ppm often fatal.  So in my view, you want to keep ammonia and nitrite at basically zero however you do it if you have fish in a "cycling" tank.  So, the more water changes, the better.  And I myself have never considered these more dangerous than allowing ammonia/nitrite to rise, so even if it is at best the lesser of two evils, it is still worth it.
 
Having said that, I never deliberately "cycle" tanks as such.  I use plants, even if just floating.  I have used bacterial supplements to seed the bacteria, but after a time felt that this was not necessary with sufficient plants.  I have never seen ammonia or nitrite above zero in any of my tanks, using the API tests.  Over a period of two years I replaced the substrate in all my tanks.  I cleaned the filter media at the same time, under the tap as I always do.  In some of the tanks, the fish went back in the same day.  Not something I recommend for everyone, as it takes some experience to recognize what is occurring and to see any signs of trouble.  In addition to the plants themselves, there obviously was nitrifying bacteria present on the chunks of wood and the plants themselves.
 
Byron.
 

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