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Need Immediate Help

Discussion in 'Tropical Fish Emergencies' started by will031, Nov 26, 2018.

  1. will031

    will031 New Member

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    I'm wondering what this is on my panda cory, iv'e had 2 die in the last week for no apparent reason and this one has not really been moving for the last day and i'm pretty sure he's sick but don't know whats wrong. I've had fish flashing as well as one of my pandas so dosed with prazipro a week or so ago. As a precaution I've been doing 50% water changes every other day as I seemed to have killed off my beneficial bacteria. I just went and looked and now he has this white stuff on him. What is it and what should i do?

     

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    #1 will031, Nov 26, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2018
  2. Colin_T

    Colin_T Member

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    The fish in the picture has excess mucous on its body (white bits). This is caused by something in the water irritating the fish and causing the fish to produce more mucous.

    How long has the tank been set up for?
    How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?
    Does the new water have dechlorinator in it before you add it to the tank?
    Do you gravel clean the substrate when you do a water change?

    Have you checked the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate & pH?
    If yes, what were the results in numbers?

    What sort of filter is running on/ in the tank?
    Is the filter run continuously?
    When was the last time you cleaned the filter and how do you normally clean it?

    Have you added any new fish, shrimp, snails or plants in the last few weeks?

    Besides PraziPro, what else have you added to the tank in the last month?

    What other fish are in the tank?

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    Check the water quality and do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate each day for a week.
    Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

    Clean the inside of the glass, and clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks.

    If lots of fish are rubbing on objects in the tank it is probably a protozoan infection but I will need pictures of the other fish too and I need to know the water quality. You can also check your water supply for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate & pH.
     
  3. will031

    will031 New Member

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    -Tank has been set up for just over a month, i added fluval biological enhancer before the fish were added to speed up the cycle for a while i had o ammonia and nitrites and 5 nitrate with 7.6 pH. I've been having fish constantly dying (6 harlequins and a betta in the first 2 weeks). Went a week with 5 panda corys and 1 harlequin that were left survived and added another betta and 3 more harlequins. In the last week 2 pandas and a harlequin have died and the betta has severe clamp fin and does not look good (he was flashing quite a bit before everything went downhill with his fins)

    -I have a 10 gallon tank and have been changing the water every 2-3 days the last few weeks due to either the water getting really cloudy (bacterial bloom???), fish dying, clamp fin or reading ammonia above 0. I normally change 50% but changed 80% the other day due to ammonia at about 1.

    -I add seachem prime and api stress coat when i change the water

    -I use a gravel vacuum to clean the gravel and remove the water

    -Yesterday pH was 7.6, ammonia was 0.25, and nitrate and nitrite were 0. (Note i never checked reading after water change). Temperature is at 80 right now.

    -Filter is a power filter 10 or something like that made by topfin, and hasnt been cleaned in the last week (I removed carbon from inside so i could medicate)

    -I added 3 harlequins last friday and 2 days later the bettas fin started clamping and water got really cloudy.

    -I used melafix and pimafix as a precaution before adding the fish. I used API super ich cure 2 days ago as after prazipro there was still bad health and flashing and assumed there were no flukes. i added more of the fluval biological enhancer after changing the water today to try and get beneficial bacteria again as i seemed to have killed them off or lost them?
     
  4. will031

    will031 New Member

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    There has been alot of white fluff like stuff in the gravel when vacuuming. I know its not food as i am very careful with overfeeding
     
  5. will031

    will031 New Member

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    Also this is before and current of my betta, i took him out of the aquarium today to hopefully help remove some stress and help reduce struggling against the current. He started flashing really bad last thursday and fins really starting clamping to where they are right now. If you know anything I can do to help him I'm open to anything. Also my harlequins look normal except one of their pectoral fins are white instead of clear
     
  6. Colin_T

    Colin_T Member

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    The tank has been set up for just over 1 month but how long have there been fish in the tank?

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    Do not add any more medications. Melafix and Pimafix can sometimes cause problems to labyrinth fishes (Bettas & Gouramis). It can leave an oily film over the surface and the fish suck this in when they breath and it can poison them. Most other fish are fine with it but it is not necessary in this case.

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    Do not get any more fish for at least 1 month after everything settles down.

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    Do not replace any filter materials for at least 1 month, preferably 2 months. If you want to add a round sponge to the intake strainer of the filter, get a sponge from an internal power filter and put it on the intake of the TopFin. It will give you more filtration and act as a screen to stop fish being sucked into the filter.

    You can also add sponges from other brands of filter. You buy any brand of filter sponge from a pet shop and cut it to fit. Then put it in the filter to add filter media.

    You don't need carbon in the filter unless you have chemicals to remove and they can be removed with water changes.

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    It is my opinion the ammonia levels are causing the problem due to the pH of the water. In water with a pH below 7.0 ammonia is pretty harmless but in alkaline water (pH above 7.0) it becomes very toxic and will kill any fish in the water. The higher the pH, the more toxic it becomes. A pH of 7.6 will make any ammonia very toxic.

    Do not try to change the pH because this will stress the fish out more.

    Reduce feeding to 2 times a week and change 75% of the water 4-8 hours after feeding them. Gravel clean the substrate too.

    In addition to this, do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate on any day there is an ammonia or nitrite reading above 0. Make sure the new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before adding it to the tank.

    Make sure you use buckets specifically for the fish. Do not use any bucket from around the house because they may have had cleaning products in that will cause problems like this. If possible buy a couple of new buckets and use a permanent marker to write "FISH ONLY" on them. Keep them with the fish gear, nets, gravel cleaner, etc, and only use those buckets for the fish. Do not let anyone use them for anything else.

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    If you are adding liquid bacterial supplements like Fluval Biological Enhancer, you can double dose them every day for 1 week and then put the rest in the fridge, or you can use it all up. Try to add it to the aquarium near the filter intake. Or turn the filter off and pour it into the filter. Wait 15 minutes and then turn the filter back on. Normally just add it to the tank near the filter intake tho and it will be drawn into the filter where it is needed.

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    There is more info at the following link if you have a bit of spare time. It is pretty much what I have mentioned above but more thorough.
    http://www.fishforums.net/threads/what-to-do-if-your-fish-gets-sick.450268/

    If you reduce feeding, do more water changes and stop adding chemicals, hopefully the fish will come good in a few days. However, you will need to continue with the water changes and reduced feeding for at least 1 month, until after the filters have established. then you can increase feeding and reduce the water changes.

    As for the male Betta, I would put him back in the main tank and do lots of water changes. If you have concerns about him being damaged by the filter, you can leave him in a plastic container and change most of the water each day. Just make sure the new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the container.
     
  7. Jeremy180

    Jeremy180 Member

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  8. NickAu

    NickAu Member
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    Melafix can be dangerous to Bettas do not use it.

    How strong is the current? instead of removing the betta why not reduce the current?

    This stuff is garbage and thats where it belongs.

    How much Prine are you using?

    2 drops of Prime per gallon of water deals with ammonia up to 1.

    Please note
    Prime will bind ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for 24-48 hours. At which point, if they are still present, will be released.

    If you are using the API master test kit be aware it cant tell the difference between ammonia and ammonium.
     
  9. Deanasue

    Deanasue Fish Crazy

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    There is no reason to add Prime and Stress Coat together. I would go with the Prime and save the Stress Coat for skin cut or the like. I agree with the Melafix, it’s not good for bettas.
     

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