High Nitrite For Over 3 Weeks

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Lisa67

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Fishless cycling two tanks and they are both in about the same stage of the cycling process (except that one has much more Nitrate). Both process amonia to zero in about 12 hours. Both have what I think is 5+ nitrite (actually, I'm not sure of this... someone here told me that if it turns dark purple as soon as it hits the bottom its 5+. However, when I shake it up it looks more like 0.5-1) Anyway, there doesn't seem to be much change. Should I be changing water or something? I'm now 6 or 7 weeks into this process and getting frustrated.
 
Hang in there. I've seen plenty of fishless cycles that behave this way. Have you been checking pH regularly to make sure you're in the 8.0 to 8.4 range or close to that? WD
 
When I started the cycle my ph was 8.2. Suddenly it fell to 6... I was told that this is because of the nitrate. I added some baking soda and now it's around 7.5 (I think). The PH is another problem... I've discovered that my tap water (well water) fluctuates. Now I'm worried that my fish are going to die from dramatic PH changes every time I change the water... guess I'll deal with that if I ever get fish.
 
Fish are quite tolerant to Ph swings. Mine went up to the high 8s with an algae bloom and my tap water changed from about 7.6 to 6.6. I don't know when this happened, but the fish never had a problem.

If it greatly fluctuates then smaller water changes more often would be the best bet. Ph changing by less than 1, I wouldn't worry about it unless you do a massive water change
 
I hope that mbuna are as tolerant of ph changes as your fish. From everything I've heard they require a high PH. When I set up my tank (rocks and all) the PH was very high. The baking soda thing is easy enough, but I'm not sure how to keep it steady.
 
I hope that mbuna are as tolerant of ph changes as your fish. From everything I've heard they require a high PH. When I set up my tank (rocks and all) the PH was very high. The baking soda thing is easy enough, but I'm not sure how to keep it steady.

If you're cycling atm, then adding baking soda counteracts the drop in Ph to help the bacteria to multiply. Once the cycle is complete, you should get a steady Ph around that of your tap water. Most people tend to have it slightly higher in the tank than tap.

What is your tap water?
 
Yes, agree with the advice given. Adding the bicarb (Baking Soda) during the fishless cycle is fine and is the way to get the pH up in the 8.0 to 8.4 range that you want for maximum growth of the autotrophic bacteria. If you're only making it up to 7.5 then dose more bicarb. It will not harm your tank as it should all go out at the big water change before fish. It is not the method of choice if one wishes to raise parameters after fish are in the tank though, so don't continue it past cycling.

Fluctuations in pH, as described, are often not a problem as it is the underlying change in mineral content (as measured variously by water hardness tests) that can bother the fish more profoundly. It's important to never attempt to judge what your water chemistry will be like in the finished tank based on what you are seeing during fishless cycling. The tank may not be the same at all. Instead you just have to get a good cycle (with qualifying week and all) and then do the big water changes, get fish and begin to watch how the normally operating tank settles in. It's good practice to continue to record good notes in your aquarium notebook throughout the first months to help you get a feel for the water chemistry of the running tank as based on real data, not just the whims of your memory.

The the special lake cichlids you are hoping for, the first hope will be that the tap water settles in at a high enough mineral content and you are able to take care of them that way. If it fails to be high enough then it may be that a small mesh bag of crushed coral in the filter will be the way to go, but of course this will be more maintenance work for you ongoing.

~~waterdrop~~
 
OK, I added some more baking soda. Will retest the PH in the morning when I get home from work. My tap water ph is about 7.5 It does seem to fluctuate quite a bit. I did buy sand for the bottom of the tank I intend to have cichlids in that is supposed to help raise the PH. Thank you for all of your advice.
 
OK, I added some more baking soda. Will retest the PH in the morning when I get home from work. My tap water ph is about 7.5 It does seem to fluctuate quite a bit. I did buy sand for the bottom of the tank I intend to have cichlids in that is supposed to help raise the PH. Thank you for all of your advice.


In my view,
If your Tapwater test's at pH 7.5 and this is water going into the tank,then no baking soda,crushed coral, is needed for bacterial development.Ditto if you are using sand designed for cichlids.
It is only with ph levels below 7.0 that any noticeable slowing down of bacterial development could be measured to any significant degree.
If nitrite levels were still high going on three weeks of fishless cycling with ammonia, I might consider reducing ammonia dose by half and see what results brought .
 
UGGG! Now the PH in the small tank is 8.8 (possibly more since that is the highest the test reads) I guess 1/4 tsp was too much baking soda for 16 gal. Should I just leave it? I could top off the water with about 2"...Don't know if that would bring it down a little. On the bright side...while my nitrite is still extremely high, the test drops no longer change to dark purple as soon as they hit the water. They now remain blue for a split second ....then purple. I realize it isn't much, but I'm hanging on to anything!
 
When I got home from work this morning I topped off the water in the 16 gal tank... that's the one that had the high PH. Two days ago when I tested the Nitrate level it was 80 ... (that was when the PH was low and also when I added the 1/4 tsp of baking soda). Today the nitrate is lower, about 20. Also, the PH is down to 7.6...(I guess the top off could explain that?)

In the 55 gal tank the nitrate is now between 80 and 160 and finially the nitrite seems to be slowly comming down... I hope. As I said, when I test the nitrite it actually stays blue in the bottom of the tube for a few seconds before it changes to purple.
 
It sounds like both sets of bacteria are present, maybe it`s time to reduce the ammonia doseage as mentioned above
 
OK, that's what I was thinking. I dosed them both back up to 2 today. We shall see... How do I test for water hardness? I know that my water is hard... If I boil a pot of water I'm left with residue. Are there fish that like hard water for both high and low PH?
 
You can buy a GH test kit. It`s generally best to test your water chemistry in the qualifying week of cycling when your tank water will more closely resemble the water you will be keeping fish in, it`s also generally advisable to buy fish that will suit your water supply, it`s a nightmare to alter pH and GH and keep everything stable. I should start researching suitable species if you`re not already doing that
 

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