High Nitrates in source water

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AbbeysDad

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I have high nitrates (60-80ppm) in my well water due to a 95 acre farmers field across the road. High nitrates in water is not uncommon in rural and.or agricultural areas. Water changes with this water would not keep nitrates down!

I thought I'd share how I prep water for partial water changes to remove the nitrates.
(Note: I'll spare you all the things I've done on the tank side to keep nitrates low.)

I opted not to go with an RO/DI system as good systems are a little pricey and because of my 30/50psi pump controller on my well, I'd need an additional pump to keep psi high enough and then there's the chems to adjust for minerals and pH.

I had originally opted to use the now discontinued API Tap Water Filter that produced deionized (DI) water. However, with my well water, the cartridge use life relative to the cost wasn't any better than if I was to buy bottled water.

So I took an empty cartridge (see photo) and filled it with API Nitra-Zorb. I trickle the water through the nitrate filter then through an inline carbon filter (rated for 2500g). I get about 200 gallons through the nitrate filter before I need to recharge with salt water. I've recharged many times now!
Although the tap water filter has been discontinued by API, parts are still available. Alternatively, this same process could be done with an inline nitrate filter (same as used for refrigerators, ice makers and such).


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What could help you a bit more is to have a well planted tank if you not already done so.

Plants are good at absorbing nitrate especially fast growing plants like elodea, vals and floating plants.

My tap water gives out 30-40ppm nitrates, at end of week in my tanks it usually at zero or just barely reads 5ppm nitrate.

So that may help your situation a bit perhaps.
 
What could help you a bit more is to have a well planted tank if you not already done so.

Plants are good at absorbing nitrate especially fast growing plants like elodea, vals and floating plants.

My tap water gives out 30-40ppm nitrates, at end of week in my tanks it usually at zero or just barely reads 5ppm nitrate.

So that may help your situation a bit perhaps.

This is interesting. I have not come across this much of a change. Are you doing anything else to deal with nitrate? Of course, the high nitrate is presumably entering the tank initially...have you tested the tank after a water change to see the level? I would assume it is not at 30-40 when a portion of the water is fresh and not the whole tank.
 
What could help you a bit more is to have a well planted tank if you not already done so.

Plants are good at absorbing nitrate especially fast growing plants like elodea, vals and floating plants.

My tap water gives out 30-40ppm nitrates, at end of week in my tanks it usually at zero or just barely reads 5ppm nitrate.

So that may help your situation a bit perhaps.

I guess you didn't notice my avitar.
16%20-%20transition.jpg

Actually most plants prefer ammonia/ammonium as their nitrogen source while only a few species seem to readily process nitrates.
This post was to assist those that [also] have high nitrates in their source water and have resigned that tank nitrates of 40-60ppm is 'okay'.....it's really not good for the fish.
I believe that what I've done is the simplest, least expensive way to remove nitrates from source water so that water for partial water changes is relatively pure.
 
Although the tap water filter has been discontinued by API, parts are still available. Alternatively, this same process could be done with an inline nitrate filter (same as used for refrigerators, ice makers and such).

Just a quick search under nitrate absorbtion resin I did find these products:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3Z47DI/?tag=ff0d01-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3Z47DI/?tag=ff0d01-20

There are more options available and remade filters that just need hose and hose fittings. I don't know which works best since I don't have a nitrate issue. The above materials could also be placed in a filter instead of a separate filter.
 
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This is interesting. I have not come across this much of a change. Are you doing anything else to deal with nitrate? Of course, the high nitrate is presumably entering the tank initially...have you tested the tank after a water change to see the level? I would assume it is not at 30-40 when a portion of the water is fresh and not the whole tank.

Intersting thoguht, have not actually tested the water for nitrate just after a water change, I usually do 50% once weekly. But yes, would assume the same, the nitrate level will decrease once its mixed with tank water thats negliable for nitrate.

Think will test that out of curiousity on my next water change and see what the readings of nitrate will be at, before and after comparison then again at end of week to see the consistency. A little experiment if you like :)

I guess you didn't notice my avitar.
Actually most plants prefer ammonia/ammonium as their nitrogen source while only a few species seem to readily process nitrates.
This post was to assist those that [also] have high nitrates in their source water and have resigned that tank nitrates of 40-60ppm is 'okay'.....it's really not good for the fish.
I believe that what I've done is the simplest, least expensive way to remove nitrates from source water so that water for partial water changes is relatively pure.

Actually did not see your avatar at all truth be told, until now obviously.

Does seem fairly well planted, is always useful to see full tank set ups to get an idea of things.

I really hope your method of using this system of ro/di water with your API filter will help a lot.
Wonder if you will need to remineralise this water before refilling the tank, or possibly doing a 50/50 mix with tap water will be an idea.
 
I really hope your method of using this system of ro/di water with your API filter will help a lot. Wonder if you will need to remineralise this water before refilling the tank, or possibly doing a 50/50 mix with tap water will be an idea.

This is NOT RO/DI water. The Tap Water Filter filled with API's Nitra-Zorb resin merely absorbs the nitrates from the water, it does not remove the minerals. This is not unlike in-line nitrate filters used for refrigerators, ice makers and such. The beauty in this is that the resin can be recharged and reused with regular (aquarium or non-iodized table) salt water. It would defeat the purpose to remix with high nitrate 'tap' water.
Even though the filters do not remove minerals, I always add a little Seachem Equilibrium during/after each water change as although my water is not really soft, it's not hard and I find that a bit more minerals is beneficial.
 
Just a quick search under nitrate absorbtion resin I did find these products:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3Z47DI/?tag=ff0d01-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3Z47DI/?tag=ff0d01-20

There are more options available and remade filters that just need hose and hose fittings. I don't know which works best since I don't have a nitrate issue. The above materials could also be placed in a filter instead of a separate filter.

Thanks. I'm not sure why you included the same link twice? This appears to be a very similar (if not exactly the same) resin as API's Nitra-Zorb. I've also seem similar resin deals on Ebay. I saved the reference as API only sells Nitra-Zorb in pouches making the product more expensive than more bulk sales would be.

Regarding using such a product in the aquarium filter....
A couple of years ago as I was pondering this filter approach, I contacted API questioning the use life of Nitra-Zorb in my intended use. They indicated that they did not know as the material had never been tested in the way I was intending to use it. They said that in the aquarium filter, the product usually becomes exhausted because detritus (or dissolved organic solids) coats the resin so it no longer absorbs nitrates. By filtering 'clean' source water, the product is lasting a very long time for me. I have recharged with salt water many times and it just keeps on working! I have to believe that at some point it's effectiveness will diminish and I will need to replace it, but for now it keeps going strong.
So you are correct, pouches of the material can be used directly in the aquarium filter, but the use life is relatively short. As a matter of fact, before setting up the tap water filter with nitra-zorb, I used nitra-zorb pouches in an otherwise unused 10g aquarium filled with fresh (well) water and ran the filter for 24-48 hours to remove nitrates. The direct hookup to the sink through the filter is just more efficient.
You are also correct (and I mentioned in my original post) that there are ready made in-line nitrate filters. The downside is that they are about $26 USD and don't seem to be rechargeable. I'm not sure how many gallons they will produce (I suppose it all depends on how loaded the source water is) - but still an option for some.
 
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Sorry the link should have been:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Seachem+purgen

It also reduces organics which from my research contains a lot of nitrogen. I haven't seen any data comparing the brands. Also DI resins can also be recharged.

I have used Purigen in my tank filters in the past. Although it is supposed to prevent nitrates by collecting nitrogenous compounds (or dissolved organic solids) I didn't feel it worked as well as the marketing suggested. My feeling is that ammonia (and subsequent nitrite/nitrate) is created before these organic solids are created/collected), so it makes for clearer water, but not necessarily less nitrates.
Frankly, I have to say the same thing about Seachem's Matrix and DeNitrate (pumice stone) and Stability, I love Seachem, they're a great company...but some of their products (at least for me) fall a little short of their marketing claims.

I am not aware of a process to regenerate DI resins.
 
My feeling is that ammonia (and subsequent nitrite/nitrate) is created before these organic solids are created/collected),

All life has DNA and amino acids. Amino acids get there name from the amine molecule that is a key component of Amino acid molecules. Amine is NH2 (ammonia). So all dead bacteria, plant material, and food will have nitrogen in it. other organic molecules will also have phosphates in them. That is the organic side of the chemistry.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amino_acid

Inorganic salts in your water will also have nitrogen. Which one dominates the chemistry is impossible to know. So I would guess that some tanks will do better with Purgen then others. Although all will probably benefit to some extent.
 
All life has DNA and amino acids. Amino acids get there name from the amine molecule that is a key component of Amino acid molecules. Amine is NH2 (ammonia). So all dead bacteria, plant material, and food will have nitrogen in it. other organic molecules will also have phosphates in them. That is the organic side of the chemistry.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amino_acid

Inorganic salts in your water will also have nitrogen. Which one dominates the chemistry is impossible to know. So I would guess that some tanks will do better with Purgen then others. Although all will probably benefit to some extent.

I've come to understand from vast composting efforts that ammonia is generated very early in the decomposition process, where dissolved organics would be much later.
All I can say is that I used two 100ml pouches of Purigen in my 60g filters (before switching to living plants) and did not see any real reduction in tank generated nitrates.
I also didn't notice any increased clarity in the water but I've always had crystal clear water,
Likewise I added an additional Aquaclear 70 filter filled with Matrix/DeNitrate (and later built a separate filter with 4L of Matrix/DeNitrate) seeded with Stability in a effort to culture anaerobic bacteria to convert nitrates into nitrogen gas.
All of these efforts failed to reduce tank nitrates,...leading to my statements regarding marketing hype.
Perhaps there are some systems where these products have some positive results but I didn't see any measurable improvements even after long periods of use.

(I now use simple bio-sponge material in my filters as the bio-media platform.)
 
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