help white spot

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chris from hull

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hi all new here ill get round to introducing my self after this.
I've been away for two days and come home to white spot. What is going to be the beat way to treat it?
stock is....
2 clown loach
6 yoyo loach
6 angles
10 khuli loach
3 dwarf gourani
2 pearl gourani
3 sail fin molly
3 Bristol nose pleco
6 marble molly's
5 enders
3 Cory
2 twig catfish
2 synodontice cats
5 enders
3 sword tails
4 cribs
15 neons
2 rams
2 silver sharks
1 banjo cat
1 fighter

how is going to be the best to treat this with this stock thanks
 
Wow you have way more problems than just ICH ( white spot ) You stocking is horrendous. You have fish that prefer hard water with fish that prefer soft water, You have a fighter with Gourami, You have 2 Clown loaches these need to be kept in groups of 5 or 6 and require a 100 gallon tank minimum, I could go on and on.

How big is the tank?
Whats the water temp?

The first thing to do is raise the water temp to 30 deg c over a few hours and keep it there for at least 5 days you should start seeing results in 18 to 24 hours. You will need to add an airstone to the tank.

Once your fish are free of ICH we need to discuss your stocking, some of those fish have to go.
 
I also know I need more clowns but can't get hold of them at min most of fish came with tank.
 
I concur there are some serious stock issues, but I am going to ignore all that as you have a more urgent problem, ich, and I should be able to help with that.

I would use heat and salt. Clown loaches for some reason are especially subject to ich and once they get it often do not recover. But if this has been caught early enough, they should. Salt is far easier on these fish than any of the so-called ich remedies containing copper or malachite green or similar. I have treated cories, loaches and characins with salt (and heat) with no losses and complete recovery. I turned to this method after personal advice from no less an authority than Neale Monks.

This is a large tank (750 liters/200 gallons) which will mean more salt and increased effort to raise the temperature. So first, can you siphon off some of the water to a lower level and still have the filter and heaters function? This makes life much easier; I did this in my 90g.

Raise the temperature to 30C/86F. This can be done partly with raising the temperature of the replacement water of a partial water change (a WC is useful to start the treatment anyway) plus turning up the heater(s). I usually raise the temp half way via the replacement water and leave the heaters to do the rest. Having a very warm room helps, as it saves the heaters a bit. In a cool room heaters have to work longer to increase the water temp and this can cause them to wear out faster. Do a major partial water change, at least 50-60% but more if you can continue with a half or 2/3 full tank.

Add aquarium salt (not table salt, not marine salt, not rift lake cichlid salts, just regular aquarium salt) at 2 grams per liter; one level teaspoon is approximately 6 grams so that treats 3 liters. Dissolve the salt completely in warm water before adding it; never dump salt crystals in, though a few partially dissolved are OK. I add a couple teaspoons of salt to a jar of warm water and brisly shake until dissolved, then pour in and continue. Add the salt gradually, over several hours (within a day) up to what you need. Remember to calculate for displacement of water by substrate, wood, rock, etc.

One week is sometimes suggested, but I would maintain this treatment for two weeks. Do a normal partial water change after the first week, adding sufficient salt for the replacement water only. At the end of two full weeks, turn down the heaters and let the water cool naturally. The salt will gradually be removed with normal water changes. You can also top up the tank, but avoid water cooler than the tank water when you do, no more than a degree or two. Sudden chilling can re-start ich.

Feel free to ask any questions on the above process. This should not be problematic for the fish mentioned; the neons and maybe the cories (depending upon species) willnot appreciate the heat, but they should manage. Make sure there is very good (increased) surface disturbance; warmer water holds less oxygen, plus the heat and salt both increase the metabolism of all fish so oxygen is even more in demand. If you see any obvious problems, do a partial water change to dilute the salt. This should be OK for the fish if you don't overdose.

You should consider how this ich outbreak happened. Ich is directly caused by stress. Many knowledgeable biologists believe it is always present, and the fish can usually deal with it unless something causes them severe or cronic stress. It is important to identify this cause, so it is not repeated after the cure; also, if the cause is still present, it may not even be possible to cure the fish. Heat and salt will obviously cause stress, but this must be counter-balanced by removing all other stress causes.

Byron.
 
thanks for all the info ive turned the heaters up and will get on the rest in the morning. Thanks again
 
I would use heat and salt. Clown loaches for some reason are especially subject to ich and once they get it often do not recover.
Clown Loaches are fussy when it comes to water conditions and if everything is not to their liking they get Ich easily, I know as I have 5 of them. Heat treatment alone solved my Ich problem when they had it.

@Byron
How will the Kuhli loaches handle salt? I have 18 of those and have never used salt.
 
Clown Loaches are fussy when it comes to water conditions and if everything is not to their liking they get Ich easily, I know as I have 5 of them. Heat treatment alone solved my Ich problem when they had it.

@Byron
How will the Kuhli loaches handle salt? I have 18 of those and have never used salt.

I cannot guarantee, but from what Dr. Monks explained to me, the level of salt suggested here is not that much so it is generally safer. My dwarf loaches and Botia kubotai showed no signs of stress.

Heat alone can work, but it needs to be fairly high, around 90F/32C and the one time I went this high there were very clear signs from the cories that they were suffering, so I immediately lowered it with a water change. When cories sit motionless, often as close to the filter return as they can get, respirating so fast they are visibly shaking, they are not happy.
 
There are never any guarantees, Even using just heat there is a risk, If Dr Monks says its ok then thats good enough for me.
 
If a few fish have it, basically they all do, and you have to treat the whole tank.
 
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