I have just taken over my dad's tropical fish tank and I am having so much trouble with the heater. I plugged it in and set it to the temperature he had it on which I think was 26? It was hard to see. Worked fine, water was lovely and warm. I put my hand in the next morning and it was boiling! So turned it down and it has been this rollercoaster ride ever since. I have turned it up to 30 and the water is cold. I understand this is probably time for a new heater so is there any heaters you would recommend? Also how hot is too hot for tropical fish? There is 1 angelfish, 3 tiger barbs, 2 corydoras and 1 pleco in a 60 litre tank. Any advice you could give me would really be appreciated. I have turned it up the hottest temp hoping that it will warm the water for them.
Heating help!
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Aquarium heaters are frequently not accurate with respect to the water temperature matching exactly the set temperature on the heater. As an example, I have a heater in one tank that is set to 20 C and it heats the tank water around 24 C. This is quite normal; some heat above, others below the setting.
Next point is that the room temperature should not be more than 10 degrees F (4 to 5 degrees C) below the intended water temperature. Aquarium heaters are not intended to heat up very cold water; the ambient room temperature has to be relatively close to the water temperature. Heaters that are forced to "overwork" can fail.
Next point, avoid excessive re-programming as it takes time for these heaters to respond to a change in the temperature setting. I get around this by using a thermometer to get the tank water at the intended temperature at the tap when filling the tank, then place the heater in the tank but not plugged in for 15 to 20 minutes. Then plug in the heater and slowly adjust the setting knob whichever way necessary. Example: If you want the tank water at 24 C and the thermometer shows it is 24 C now, if the pilot light is not on when you plug it in, very slowly turn it to increase the temp until it just comes on. Then leave it and check periodically for the next few hours to ensure the heater is working for the intended temperature. Or, if the pilot light comes on when the heater is plugged in, slowly turn it down until it just goes off. Again monitor for several hours.
If you do not adjust the setting knob, the heater if unplugged and moved should retain the setting once it is in another tank and plugged in. Always give it 15 or so minutes before plugging in. But never expect it to heat a cold tank; it may malfunction.
Next point is that the room temperature should not be more than 10 degrees F (4 to 5 degrees C) below the intended water temperature. Aquarium heaters are not intended to heat up very cold water; the ambient room temperature has to be relatively close to the water temperature. Heaters that are forced to "overwork" can fail.
Next point, avoid excessive re-programming as it takes time for these heaters to respond to a change in the temperature setting. I get around this by using a thermometer to get the tank water at the intended temperature at the tap when filling the tank, then place the heater in the tank but not plugged in for 15 to 20 minutes. Then plug in the heater and slowly adjust the setting knob whichever way necessary. Example: If you want the tank water at 24 C and the thermometer shows it is 24 C now, if the pilot light is not on when you plug it in, very slowly turn it to increase the temp until it just comes on. Then leave it and check periodically for the next few hours to ensure the heater is working for the intended temperature. Or, if the pilot light comes on when the heater is plugged in, slowly turn it down until it just goes off. Again monitor for several hours.
If you do not adjust the setting knob, the heater if unplugged and moved should retain the setting once it is in another tank and plugged in. Always give it 15 or so minutes before plugging in. But never expect it to heat a cold tank; it may malfunction.
Hi and welcome to the forum 
Sometimes aquarium heaters that have been sitting around for a while start to malfunction and these are best replaced asap. A 60 litre tank should have a 100-150watt heater. I prefer to err on the bigger side (150watt) because it won't have to work as hard when warming the water and can be used on a bigger tank later on if you ever upgrade. The price between them will be negligible.
Make sure you get an adjustable heater and get a floating glass thermometer to go in the tank if you don't already have one. If you buy a new thermometer, take a number of them off the shelf and line them up next to each other. Look at the temperature on each thermometer and buy one that has the same temp as the others. Sometimes they are faulty and will have a different reading to most of the other thermometers so try to avoid the one that reads several degrees higher or lower than the majority of the others.
Rena heaters are good but there are plenty of other brands. Make sure any heater has at least a 12 month warranty, and is adjustable and completely submersible.
Have the heater as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. Put it on an angle so the cord is above the heating coil, which is at the other end to the cord. Have an airstone or filter outlet near the heater to circulate the warm water more effectively.
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The maximum water temperature for most fish is 32C, however some fish will tolerate higher temperatures if it is increased slowly over time and the fish have been bred in warm conditions over a period of years. I have had fish in 45C water and they were fine but they were an exception. Most aquarium fish die when the temperature goes above 32C.
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Keep an eye on the tiger barbs because they can nip the fins on other fish when stressed. Stress can occur when they are kept in small groups (less than 10), or if there is not enough room to move about (small tanks), or lack of hiding places.
The angelfish will probably need a bigger home in the future when it has grown.
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I am unsure if you emptied the tank and moved it to your house or if you still live with your dad and the tank has not been drained, moved and set back up. If the tank has been moved to a different property, keep the feeding down to once a day and monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels to make sure the beneficial filter bacteria did not die from the move.
If the tank is still in the same house then the filter bacteria won't be an issue.
Sometimes aquarium heaters that have been sitting around for a while start to malfunction and these are best replaced asap. A 60 litre tank should have a 100-150watt heater. I prefer to err on the bigger side (150watt) because it won't have to work as hard when warming the water and can be used on a bigger tank later on if you ever upgrade. The price between them will be negligible.
Make sure you get an adjustable heater and get a floating glass thermometer to go in the tank if you don't already have one. If you buy a new thermometer, take a number of them off the shelf and line them up next to each other. Look at the temperature on each thermometer and buy one that has the same temp as the others. Sometimes they are faulty and will have a different reading to most of the other thermometers so try to avoid the one that reads several degrees higher or lower than the majority of the others.
Rena heaters are good but there are plenty of other brands. Make sure any heater has at least a 12 month warranty, and is adjustable and completely submersible.
Have the heater as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. Put it on an angle so the cord is above the heating coil, which is at the other end to the cord. Have an airstone or filter outlet near the heater to circulate the warm water more effectively.
-------------------------
The maximum water temperature for most fish is 32C, however some fish will tolerate higher temperatures if it is increased slowly over time and the fish have been bred in warm conditions over a period of years. I have had fish in 45C water and they were fine but they were an exception. Most aquarium fish die when the temperature goes above 32C.
-------------------------
Keep an eye on the tiger barbs because they can nip the fins on other fish when stressed. Stress can occur when they are kept in small groups (less than 10), or if there is not enough room to move about (small tanks), or lack of hiding places.
The angelfish will probably need a bigger home in the future when it has grown.
-------------------------
I am unsure if you emptied the tank and moved it to your house or if you still live with your dad and the tank has not been drained, moved and set back up. If the tank has been moved to a different property, keep the feeding down to once a day and monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels to make sure the beneficial filter bacteria did not die from the move.
If the tank is still in the same house then the filter bacteria won't be an issue.
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