Lynden
a "fish hater"
Most people have the idea that if a fish is branded as "non-reef-safe" that it will kill
everything in a reef tank. This is not true and most of these fish can be kept in a
reef system if one avoids stocking the natural prey of this fish, and generally this is
limited to a few families or genera. I know I like to try to have a unique set-up and
a fish that most others would not consider is a great way of doing it. So this article
explains exactly what and what not these fish will eat in a reef setting, so one can
worrilessly stock "un-reef-safe" fish.
My article carries the title of another article by Gregory Schiemer, from which many of
my ideas are based. However, much of the material in this article is researched (from
sources stated at bottom; some originally) or concluded by me; if I am borrowing a fact or report,
I will let you all know. Remember that it is always a good idea to research the care of a fish from many different sources,
so make sure you do this for the fish on this list as a few of them can be difficult to
care for or even dangerous to the caretaker! Just take their comments on "reef safeness"
with a degree of skepticism as many retail sites are simply not well informed, or just don't care,
enough to give good info on this regard; they post blanket statements instead. Hence the creation of this list.
I do not understand why certain groups of fishes have been ruled as "non-reef safe",
as many or most of their members are in fact unlikely to attack ornamental invertebrates. Even
still, fishes can be unpredictable, and a psycho situation such as a tang chomping away a coral are
not unheard of. Furthermore, my article is not necessarily showing fishes that will be safe with
every different type of invertebrate; but it will show what and what not they will eat in a reef
setting.
Angel fish
Angels are highly unpredictable, and although the Centropyge species feed mainly on
algae on the wild, they can occasionally attack corals (as many an aquarist has disgustedly
reported). Why is this? The reason, surprisingly, may be from lack of food. All angels are grazers
in the wild, and for them, eating intermittently is like eating once every three days for you and
me. For them, eating something that tastes poorly is better than starving. Thus, the angel cannot
be blamed for consuming corals in aquaria. The solution may arise from either dripping food in
to the tank steadily throughout the day, or by having copious supplies of edible algal matter in the
tank (such as nori sheets).
Greg states that the best dwarf angels for the reef aquarium are those in the "argi"
complex, including C. resplendens, C. argi, C. acanthops, and C. aurantonotus.
I would like to add that C. resplendens is currently largely unavailable. These fish
should not be purchased right now, to give them some time to rebound.
Larger angels tend to be even riskier, especially with large polyped stony corals. Greg
states that Regal Angels (Pygoplites dicanthus), in his experience, do not disturb corals very
often. He also states that the corals consumed will be limited to one or two species; and both he
and I think that the Regal Angel is much more of a pet than any coral could hope to be. Simply
remove the particular coral that the angel eats.
However, do not despair; there is one genus of angels that should prove to be entirely
reef-safe. This is the genus Genicanthus, and all members of it are entirely planktonivorous or
herbivorous (like a tang). Even the retail sites agree with me on that point.
Butterfly fish
My research is somewhat lacking on the family Chaetodontidae, but I can tell you that
many species, such as the Copper band (Chelmon rostratus) the Long nose (Forcipiger sp.),
two Banners (Heniochus diphreutes and H. singularis) and the Pyramid
(Hemitaurichthys sp.) are not true cnidarian eaters, and thus safe with corals and anemones unless
underfed. Search Fishbase for more details on reef-safe butterfly fish; the reef safe varieties do
not feed on polyps, but most still eat tubeworms.
Trigger fish
As I have stated millions of times before, there are many reef-safe trigger fishes. The
genera Melichthys, Xanthichthys, and Odonus are all planktonivorous fishes and do not attack
invertebrates or most fish. They may attempt to eat small fish or invertebrates when they are first
introduced (especially if they are dumped into the aquarium as if they were food items),
therefore, make all new introductions at night.
The genus Sufflamen contains many fishes that are very docile, but I have no experience
or relevant reports regarding the genus' suitability for reef aquaria. My advice would be to avoid
feather duster worms and small shrimp with these animals.
The genus Rhinecanthus contains some medium-aggression fishes. They are suitable for
some reef aquaria, but will consume small snails and most shrimp (but probably not cleaner
shrimp established before the trigger). Corals will not be consumed, but the tips of Acropora are
used as tooth-grinders by the fishes (have seen this behaviour in the wild). They will also
consume some algae.
Certain other triggers can fare well in reef aquaria. Clown Triggers can be docile until
they reach lengths of about 8'', at which point they can become terrors. Search Fishbase for more
information.
Lastly, it is important to remember that trigger fishes (as with all Tetraodonts) are very
intelligent animals, and they will soon figure out that it is easier to pick food out of the water
column with the other fish than it is to dig it up. Also they have differing personalities.
File fish
Filefishes are similar to triggers in shape and anatomy, but filefish have much more
variable sizes (from about 2-3'' to almost 4' as opposed to the 8'' to almost 3' of triggers) and
diets. Filefishes are also physically weaker and in many cases more difficult to keep, and their
spines do not like upright like the triggers' do. It is also more difficult to find a reef-safe
filefish than it is to find a reef safe trigger. On the bright side, filefishes are much more docile
toward other fishes than many triggers are.
Many filefishes will consume corals, and a few (Oxymonacanthus sp.) feed on nothing
but; avoid those. However, many of the more commonly available filefishes can be included in a reef tank,
namely the Prickly Leatherjacket (Chaetoderma pencilligera), which is also a very 'cool' fish
and easy to feed. Cnidarians and most benthic inverts do not form a significant part of this particular fishes' diet.
The genus Pervagor contains fishes that may consume small amounts of hard coral, but
generally feed on algae. If the animal is well-fed, it will probably leave most other animals alone.
Puffers
Large Arothron puffers are best left out of the reef aquarium, since their powerful jaws
are capable of crunching smaller snails, crabs, shrimps, lobsters, and hard corals. I have no
relevant reports of these animals living harmoniously in reef aquaria, but I plan to try it with the
aid of a couple of different "tricks" (such as copious feeding or only buying tiny puffers).
There are numerous reports of Canthigaster puffers living in harmony with reef animals
(Greg's article contains two of them with C. solandri). Much of this genus feeds on algae, and
though there are exceptions, many Canthigaster are well suited for a reef aquarium. Search
Fishbase for more info. In any case, try to avoid keeping them with tiny snails and shrimp.
The above also depends heavily on the fish's individual personality. Many C. valentini, for instance,
do not hurt a fly in reef tanks, but others can be real a$$ holes. Perhaps if one specimen becomes
a nuisance, but you are still determined to keep this species (is beautiful and intelligent), try trading
it for another one.
Porcupine fish
Diodon fishes can generally be kept in some reef aquaria, and as long as they are well fed
they often will not attack most ornamental animals; small crustaceans, small echinoderms, and
small snails will often be consumed when the fish gets hungry (cleaner shrimp are utilized by the
porcupine fish and will not be eaten). Fish with long fins such as Zebrasoma can (very rarely) be at risk from the
porcupine fishes' "games", but fast fish are almost always more trouble than they are worth for the
porcupine fish. Corals, too, will not be eaten by a satiated Diodon. Buy the fish young, and introduce
newcomers at night for best results.
Box fish
Boxfish are well suited to the reef aquarium, though if an individual is underfed (very
easy to do as the fish are slow moving and poor competitors) it may turn to chomping soft corals
such as Xenia. Tubeworms are also happily eaten by boxfish.
Be warned when purchasing, moving, and keeping boxfish that they can exude an
extremely toxic substance when severely stressed or dead that can annihilate an entire tank. This
is a rare occurrence, but worth considering. Carbon filtration, protein skimming may help to
alleviate these effects, but usually a fast 100% water change will be necessary.
Eels
There are numerous choices in reef safe eels, as the invertebrates they consume are
limited to crustaceans and cephalopods. The Echidna and Gymnomuraena
genera generally are also safe with fish, but most other morays will happily consume small fishes.
Even still, a well fed moray is a very lazy fish; they will not make a kill unless they need to.
One fact to consider is that morays very commonly grow to enormous dimensions and are
a large "bio-load", so a powerful skimmer and frequent water changes will be necessary to keep
your reef in top condition if it houses a moray.
Ribbon Morays (Rhinomuraena and Pseudechidna) are generally
very good reef fishes, especially when well fed. They are much smaller and put out
less bio load than other morays as well. Keep in mind that blue ribbon eels are VERY difficult to feed.
I believe we have on aquarist's story of them on this forum; try searching it's database.
Gymnothorax favagineus is one fish that can be extremely voracious.
Use caution when choosing tank mates for this animal; even then keep the
animal very well fed. The Green Moray (Gymnothorax funebris) can
be even worse. Both can grow to lengths of nearly 10'; but they are both awfully cute.
Remember that morays will knock things over in their daily routines, and kick up dust.
Lion fish
Lionfishes are safe with any fish that cannot fit into their mouths easily. However,
judging the full size of their enormous protrusile jaws can be very difficult, in particular
for Pterois species. P. volitans especially is a very voracious fish, often recorded
consuming the smaller dwarf fuzzy lion Dendrochirus brachypterus. Thus, any
fish under 6'' is potentially at risk with the Volitans.
A few Pterois and all Dendrochirus eat nothing but crustaceans in the wild; therefore,
they should probably be safer with fishes than the larger species P. volitans, P. miles,
P. lunulata, et cetera. It is safe to say that all lionfishes will be perfectly fine in a reef tank with
bigger fish and no shrimps or crabs (not counting hermit crabs, which will also be safe; lionfishes
will not purposely consume mollusc shells).
Wrasses
I have seen certain wrasses get a bad rap, as well. That is a shame, as these often
comprise some of the most beautiful, cool, and interesting animals an aquarist can get!
Fishes in the genus Coris can be kept in some reef tanks, but they will often attack small, motile
invertebrates, including small snails (Nassarius spring to mind). My recommendation to someone
that wanted one of these is to buy it small, and place it with animals bigger than it; will help to curb
aggression and, if it is fed often, it may never turn to eating snails, echinoderms, or hermit crabs.
These animals, like many wrasses, are probably very good at ridding an aquarium of bristleworms.
The biggest problem with Coris is size. Many can reach 2'. Coris gaimard is probably
the best for aquaria.
Harlequin Tusks (Choerodon fasciatus) are a psychadelically coloured and ferocious-looking fish.
They are docile and well suited to a reef tank, but they may consume true crabs, especially if underfed.
Introduce newcomers at night for best results. A word of caution; only purchase Australian specimens.
They are superior for several reasons, including better colour and higher health level.
Dragon Wrasses (Novaculichthys) and other razorfish are magnificent fishes and easy to keep,
but unfortunately are powerful and intelligent predators. Your best bet would be to keep it with firmly
attached corals, larger hermit crabs (Calcinus, Dardanus, Pagurus), and large, well
armoured snails, such as cowries, astreas, and conches. Buy the fish young, and feed them very well.
Capable of consuming small to medium sized fishes when large, and also not above bullying fishes too
big to eat whole. Won't eat corals, and one can consider a tank with one of these a "jewel case with a little dragon".
Be aware that poorly or newly attached corals can be threatened by this fish's rock moving tendencies.
Is a heavy sand sifter, and as in nature, may build little piles of rocks. This shouldn't do much damage
unless corals are strewn about unattached; but substrate living corals can be flipped, so avoid keeping
small substrate living corals with a razorfish.
Thalassoma are another that has a very bad rep, and unfortunately this is probably for a reason.
Keep with big, strong urchins, hermit crabs, corals, anemones, and any invertebrate too big or strong to
crunch. Usually docile towards fishes, but this is a big genus (second largest in labrid family; Halichoeres
is largest) and variation can be expected.
A few others
Smaller hawkfish generally make great reef dwellers and are very easy to feed, but they
may attack small shrimp.
The marine betta (Calloplesiops altivelis), according to Greg, bothers nothing, and rarely
does anything bother it, except for lighting. They usually get used to it.
Groupers also are generally safe with larger fishes, but they may consume shrimps.
Conclusion
Many fishes that are commonly thought as undesirable for a reef do deserve a second
look. If ever you are looking at a fish on Live Aquaria or what ever, do not make your final decision
until you look in a scientific database such as Fishbase. Or preferably, look in fishbase, wetwebmedia,
or aquahobby before consulting the retail sites.
Written by Lynden Beattie (with some input from Andy, Enjoiskater, Tommy Gun and everyone else that posted), 2007
Rest in peace Greg, you will be missed.
References
-Marine Fish and Reef 2006
Have You Overlooked These Fish? by Gregory Schiemer
-Froese, R. and D. Pauly. Editors. 2007. FishBase.
World Wide Web electronic publication.
www.fishbase.org, version (08/2007).
(re: piscine diet)
-Wet web media (various contributors but especially the writing of R. Fenner), wetwebmedia.com
-aquahobby.com (various contributors)
I give permission for anyone to copy this article for any reason, on the condition that the sources are credited.
everything in a reef tank. This is not true and most of these fish can be kept in a
reef system if one avoids stocking the natural prey of this fish, and generally this is
limited to a few families or genera. I know I like to try to have a unique set-up and
a fish that most others would not consider is a great way of doing it. So this article
explains exactly what and what not these fish will eat in a reef setting, so one can
worrilessly stock "un-reef-safe" fish.
My article carries the title of another article by Gregory Schiemer, from which many of
my ideas are based. However, much of the material in this article is researched (from
sources stated at bottom; some originally) or concluded by me; if I am borrowing a fact or report,
I will let you all know. Remember that it is always a good idea to research the care of a fish from many different sources,
so make sure you do this for the fish on this list as a few of them can be difficult to
care for or even dangerous to the caretaker! Just take their comments on "reef safeness"
with a degree of skepticism as many retail sites are simply not well informed, or just don't care,
enough to give good info on this regard; they post blanket statements instead. Hence the creation of this list.
I do not understand why certain groups of fishes have been ruled as "non-reef safe",
as many or most of their members are in fact unlikely to attack ornamental invertebrates. Even
still, fishes can be unpredictable, and a psycho situation such as a tang chomping away a coral are
not unheard of. Furthermore, my article is not necessarily showing fishes that will be safe with
every different type of invertebrate; but it will show what and what not they will eat in a reef
setting.
Angel fish
Angels are highly unpredictable, and although the Centropyge species feed mainly on
algae on the wild, they can occasionally attack corals (as many an aquarist has disgustedly
reported). Why is this? The reason, surprisingly, may be from lack of food. All angels are grazers
in the wild, and for them, eating intermittently is like eating once every three days for you and
me. For them, eating something that tastes poorly is better than starving. Thus, the angel cannot
be blamed for consuming corals in aquaria. The solution may arise from either dripping food in
to the tank steadily throughout the day, or by having copious supplies of edible algal matter in the
tank (such as nori sheets).
Greg states that the best dwarf angels for the reef aquarium are those in the "argi"
complex, including C. resplendens, C. argi, C. acanthops, and C. aurantonotus.
I would like to add that C. resplendens is currently largely unavailable. These fish
should not be purchased right now, to give them some time to rebound.
Larger angels tend to be even riskier, especially with large polyped stony corals. Greg
states that Regal Angels (Pygoplites dicanthus), in his experience, do not disturb corals very
often. He also states that the corals consumed will be limited to one or two species; and both he
and I think that the Regal Angel is much more of a pet than any coral could hope to be. Simply
remove the particular coral that the angel eats.
However, do not despair; there is one genus of angels that should prove to be entirely
reef-safe. This is the genus Genicanthus, and all members of it are entirely planktonivorous or
herbivorous (like a tang). Even the retail sites agree with me on that point.
Butterfly fish
My research is somewhat lacking on the family Chaetodontidae, but I can tell you that
many species, such as the Copper band (Chelmon rostratus) the Long nose (Forcipiger sp.),
two Banners (Heniochus diphreutes and H. singularis) and the Pyramid
(Hemitaurichthys sp.) are not true cnidarian eaters, and thus safe with corals and anemones unless
underfed. Search Fishbase for more details on reef-safe butterfly fish; the reef safe varieties do
not feed on polyps, but most still eat tubeworms.
Trigger fish
As I have stated millions of times before, there are many reef-safe trigger fishes. The
genera Melichthys, Xanthichthys, and Odonus are all planktonivorous fishes and do not attack
invertebrates or most fish. They may attempt to eat small fish or invertebrates when they are first
introduced (especially if they are dumped into the aquarium as if they were food items),
therefore, make all new introductions at night.
The genus Sufflamen contains many fishes that are very docile, but I have no experience
or relevant reports regarding the genus' suitability for reef aquaria. My advice would be to avoid
feather duster worms and small shrimp with these animals.
The genus Rhinecanthus contains some medium-aggression fishes. They are suitable for
some reef aquaria, but will consume small snails and most shrimp (but probably not cleaner
shrimp established before the trigger). Corals will not be consumed, but the tips of Acropora are
used as tooth-grinders by the fishes (have seen this behaviour in the wild). They will also
consume some algae.
Certain other triggers can fare well in reef aquaria. Clown Triggers can be docile until
they reach lengths of about 8'', at which point they can become terrors. Search Fishbase for more
information.
Lastly, it is important to remember that trigger fishes (as with all Tetraodonts) are very
intelligent animals, and they will soon figure out that it is easier to pick food out of the water
column with the other fish than it is to dig it up. Also they have differing personalities.
File fish
Filefishes are similar to triggers in shape and anatomy, but filefish have much more
variable sizes (from about 2-3'' to almost 4' as opposed to the 8'' to almost 3' of triggers) and
diets. Filefishes are also physically weaker and in many cases more difficult to keep, and their
spines do not like upright like the triggers' do. It is also more difficult to find a reef-safe
filefish than it is to find a reef safe trigger. On the bright side, filefishes are much more docile
toward other fishes than many triggers are.
Many filefishes will consume corals, and a few (Oxymonacanthus sp.) feed on nothing
but; avoid those. However, many of the more commonly available filefishes can be included in a reef tank,
namely the Prickly Leatherjacket (Chaetoderma pencilligera), which is also a very 'cool' fish
and easy to feed. Cnidarians and most benthic inverts do not form a significant part of this particular fishes' diet.
The genus Pervagor contains fishes that may consume small amounts of hard coral, but
generally feed on algae. If the animal is well-fed, it will probably leave most other animals alone.
Puffers
Large Arothron puffers are best left out of the reef aquarium, since their powerful jaws
are capable of crunching smaller snails, crabs, shrimps, lobsters, and hard corals. I have no
relevant reports of these animals living harmoniously in reef aquaria, but I plan to try it with the
aid of a couple of different "tricks" (such as copious feeding or only buying tiny puffers).
There are numerous reports of Canthigaster puffers living in harmony with reef animals
(Greg's article contains two of them with C. solandri). Much of this genus feeds on algae, and
though there are exceptions, many Canthigaster are well suited for a reef aquarium. Search
Fishbase for more info. In any case, try to avoid keeping them with tiny snails and shrimp.
The above also depends heavily on the fish's individual personality. Many C. valentini, for instance,
do not hurt a fly in reef tanks, but others can be real a$$ holes. Perhaps if one specimen becomes
a nuisance, but you are still determined to keep this species (is beautiful and intelligent), try trading
it for another one.
Porcupine fish
Diodon fishes can generally be kept in some reef aquaria, and as long as they are well fed
they often will not attack most ornamental animals; small crustaceans, small echinoderms, and
small snails will often be consumed when the fish gets hungry (cleaner shrimp are utilized by the
porcupine fish and will not be eaten). Fish with long fins such as Zebrasoma can (very rarely) be at risk from the
porcupine fishes' "games", but fast fish are almost always more trouble than they are worth for the
porcupine fish. Corals, too, will not be eaten by a satiated Diodon. Buy the fish young, and introduce
newcomers at night for best results.
Box fish
Boxfish are well suited to the reef aquarium, though if an individual is underfed (very
easy to do as the fish are slow moving and poor competitors) it may turn to chomping soft corals
such as Xenia. Tubeworms are also happily eaten by boxfish.
Be warned when purchasing, moving, and keeping boxfish that they can exude an
extremely toxic substance when severely stressed or dead that can annihilate an entire tank. This
is a rare occurrence, but worth considering. Carbon filtration, protein skimming may help to
alleviate these effects, but usually a fast 100% water change will be necessary.
Eels
There are numerous choices in reef safe eels, as the invertebrates they consume are
limited to crustaceans and cephalopods. The Echidna and Gymnomuraena
genera generally are also safe with fish, but most other morays will happily consume small fishes.
Even still, a well fed moray is a very lazy fish; they will not make a kill unless they need to.
One fact to consider is that morays very commonly grow to enormous dimensions and are
a large "bio-load", so a powerful skimmer and frequent water changes will be necessary to keep
your reef in top condition if it houses a moray.
Ribbon Morays (Rhinomuraena and Pseudechidna) are generally
very good reef fishes, especially when well fed. They are much smaller and put out
less bio load than other morays as well. Keep in mind that blue ribbon eels are VERY difficult to feed.
I believe we have on aquarist's story of them on this forum; try searching it's database.
Gymnothorax favagineus is one fish that can be extremely voracious.
Use caution when choosing tank mates for this animal; even then keep the
animal very well fed. The Green Moray (Gymnothorax funebris) can
be even worse. Both can grow to lengths of nearly 10'; but they are both awfully cute.
Remember that morays will knock things over in their daily routines, and kick up dust.
Lion fish
Lionfishes are safe with any fish that cannot fit into their mouths easily. However,
judging the full size of their enormous protrusile jaws can be very difficult, in particular
for Pterois species. P. volitans especially is a very voracious fish, often recorded
consuming the smaller dwarf fuzzy lion Dendrochirus brachypterus. Thus, any
fish under 6'' is potentially at risk with the Volitans.
A few Pterois and all Dendrochirus eat nothing but crustaceans in the wild; therefore,
they should probably be safer with fishes than the larger species P. volitans, P. miles,
P. lunulata, et cetera. It is safe to say that all lionfishes will be perfectly fine in a reef tank with
bigger fish and no shrimps or crabs (not counting hermit crabs, which will also be safe; lionfishes
will not purposely consume mollusc shells).
Wrasses
I have seen certain wrasses get a bad rap, as well. That is a shame, as these often
comprise some of the most beautiful, cool, and interesting animals an aquarist can get!
Fishes in the genus Coris can be kept in some reef tanks, but they will often attack small, motile
invertebrates, including small snails (Nassarius spring to mind). My recommendation to someone
that wanted one of these is to buy it small, and place it with animals bigger than it; will help to curb
aggression and, if it is fed often, it may never turn to eating snails, echinoderms, or hermit crabs.
These animals, like many wrasses, are probably very good at ridding an aquarium of bristleworms.
The biggest problem with Coris is size. Many can reach 2'. Coris gaimard is probably
the best for aquaria.
Harlequin Tusks (Choerodon fasciatus) are a psychadelically coloured and ferocious-looking fish.
They are docile and well suited to a reef tank, but they may consume true crabs, especially if underfed.
Introduce newcomers at night for best results. A word of caution; only purchase Australian specimens.
They are superior for several reasons, including better colour and higher health level.
Dragon Wrasses (Novaculichthys) and other razorfish are magnificent fishes and easy to keep,
but unfortunately are powerful and intelligent predators. Your best bet would be to keep it with firmly
attached corals, larger hermit crabs (Calcinus, Dardanus, Pagurus), and large, well
armoured snails, such as cowries, astreas, and conches. Buy the fish young, and feed them very well.
Capable of consuming small to medium sized fishes when large, and also not above bullying fishes too
big to eat whole. Won't eat corals, and one can consider a tank with one of these a "jewel case with a little dragon".
Be aware that poorly or newly attached corals can be threatened by this fish's rock moving tendencies.
Is a heavy sand sifter, and as in nature, may build little piles of rocks. This shouldn't do much damage
unless corals are strewn about unattached; but substrate living corals can be flipped, so avoid keeping
small substrate living corals with a razorfish.
Thalassoma are another that has a very bad rep, and unfortunately this is probably for a reason.
Keep with big, strong urchins, hermit crabs, corals, anemones, and any invertebrate too big or strong to
crunch. Usually docile towards fishes, but this is a big genus (second largest in labrid family; Halichoeres
is largest) and variation can be expected.
A few others
Smaller hawkfish generally make great reef dwellers and are very easy to feed, but they
may attack small shrimp.
The marine betta (Calloplesiops altivelis), according to Greg, bothers nothing, and rarely
does anything bother it, except for lighting. They usually get used to it.
Groupers also are generally safe with larger fishes, but they may consume shrimps.
Conclusion
Many fishes that are commonly thought as undesirable for a reef do deserve a second
look. If ever you are looking at a fish on Live Aquaria or what ever, do not make your final decision
until you look in a scientific database such as Fishbase. Or preferably, look in fishbase, wetwebmedia,
or aquahobby before consulting the retail sites.
Written by Lynden Beattie (with some input from Andy, Enjoiskater, Tommy Gun and everyone else that posted), 2007
Rest in peace Greg, you will be missed.
References
-Marine Fish and Reef 2006
Have You Overlooked These Fish? by Gregory Schiemer
-Froese, R. and D. Pauly. Editors. 2007. FishBase.
World Wide Web electronic publication.
www.fishbase.org, version (08/2007).
(re: piscine diet)
-Wet web media (various contributors but especially the writing of R. Fenner), wetwebmedia.com
-aquahobby.com (various contributors)
I give permission for anyone to copy this article for any reason, on the condition that the sources are credited.
Perhaps you should take another look?
I just got my nano going smoothly... hows about a dogface puffer for it? 
Thank you. 
