foggy water

[ceci]

my fish are fine and happy but my water has turned foggy/murky, will try and change some water out soon but... any reasons why it might be this way? took a chemical test and got these results (I think) Nitrate: 0, Nitrite: 3, Ph: 6, Carbohydrate hardness: 0, GH: around 30


Also just added some "safe start" idk if that will help anything

 

[Byron]

I hope you have the nitrate/nitrite numbers reversed...a nitrite of 3 ppm is extremely dangerous and unlikely as the fish would be dead.

To the cloudy water, this can be due to a few things. It can occur after a water change due to sediment in the source water (tap). The usual cause is a bacterial bloom, and there can be a diatom bloom and an organics bloom, all of which give the water a whitish haze or cloudiness. A green haze is an algal bloom. None of these are particularly harmful though they may indicate some other issue that could be if not rectified.

Water changes can help, but if it is a bacterial bloom it may not; but there is no harm, and much benefit, to any water change so don't be afraid of doing one. Provided the parameters [this refers to GH, pH and temperature] are basically similar and you use a dechlorinator/conditioner, no problem. The Safe Start may increase this haziness, but it is not harmful to fish so don't worry about using it but it should not be necessary and unless there is evidence of ammonia or nitrite I would not use it. [Again, assuming your nitrite is 0 not 3.]

Knowing more data about this aquarium might help us pin down the issue. How long it has been running, what fish and how many, normal water change schedule, additives, plants, etc.

 

[ceci]

[


im retaking the test and it says, GH: 0, KH,0, PH: 6, NO2 : around 0.5, NO3: 0

 

[Byron]

im retaking the test and it says, GH: 0, KH,0, PH: 6, NO2 : around 0.5, NO3: 0

Which test are you using? I ask because some are less reliable, or age can make them the same.

If nitrite really is above zero, a partial water change (50% minimum) should be carried out, using a good conditioner. The SafeStart might help too.

We still need to know the tank data mentioned previously.

 

[ceci]

It has been running for about 2 weeks, 2 platies, 1 pleco, and 4 plants, 1 tunnel and a anemone. plan on changing water monthly

 

[ceci]

also would I use this to clear my water https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61W1vTjEoML._SL1350_.jpg

 

[ceci]

Which test are you using? I ask because some are less reliable, or age can make them the same.

If nitrite really is above zero, a partial water change (50% minimum) should be carried out, using a good conditioner. The SafeStart might help too.

We still need to know the tank data mentioned previously.

i put the data in a reply.

I used the API 5 in 1 test srips

 

[Byron]

The tank has not fully cycled which is why you are seeing nitrite. And the haze is a bacterial bloom which in this situation is related.

Do NOT use water clarifiers with fish in the tank. These work by binding the microscopic particles together to allow the filter to more easily remove them, but they also do the same to fish gills. The hazy water is not in itself detrimental to fish so deal with the cycling and the water will clear.

Continue to use the SafeStart, this will increase the nitrifying bacteria to handle the ammonia and nitrite and is crucial here.

You could also use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite, such as Seachem's Prime, during the cycling. I do not normally recommend this product but in new tanks where the nitrifying bacteria are not fully established it can save fish. The detoxification of ammonia/nitrite is temporary though, 24-36 hours, 48 at most, and during this the ammonia or nitrite (or both) will still test positive. But Prime has made them harmless temporarily so it helps the fish. Once the readings are zero consecutively for ammonia and nitrite, you should be OK. But with either present (testing above zero), daily or alternate day water changes are essential.

Once the tank has cycled (ammonia and nitrite will test zero, and nitrates will likely be present) you can go to regular weekly water changes. A partial water change no less than once each week, and changing 50-60% of the tank volume, should be basic maintenance from then on. Nothing is as important as the weekly water change. Use a good conditioner, nothing more once this is resolved.