Catfish trouble

[Tyler_Fishman]

recently I
Did a 80% water change, all
My fish were fine until
My dwarf cories,otocinculus and bristle nose pleco started going for air constantly,they loose a bubble of air like they can't hold it on and then go for a new one
Ph
6.7
Ammonia 0
Nitrate 10
Nitrite 0
Tank size 10
Gallon

 

[LyraGuppi]

What temperature is the tank?

 

[Tyler_Fishman]

80 degrees, recently I did a 10% water change and my cats have been doing it less, the Ottos have been doing it the most, I know they are very sensitive to parameters

 

[Byron]

That is way too warm for dwarf cories. Otos will be better with cooler water too. And the BN pleco won't mind. A temperature around 75-76F is max for the dwarf species of cories.

Warmer water holds less oxygen, so the fish are having to respirate far more to get what they need to begin with. Then there is the issue of the effect of temperature on fish metabolism; the warmer the water, the harder the fish has to work just to maintain its normal internal functions. So this means that the fish is working harder and this takes more oxygen, plus the warmth means there is less oxygen available.

Lower the tank down to 75F and the fish will be fine.

There could be another factor here. How much water was changed, and did you use a conditioner, and if yes, which one?

Byron.

 

[Purple Spotted Gudgeon]

All the cory's ive ever had did that, i think they do it for fun and exercise

 

[Byron]

No, there is a specific physiological reason. All the Corydoradinae species and Otocinclus have the ability to use atmospheric air to obtain oxygen. They will gulp air at the surface, then swallow the air; blood vessels in the hind gut assimilate oxygen from the air, and the spent air is expelled through the anus when the fish takes another gulp. Sometimes you can see this as the fish returns from the surface. This adaptation is believed to have evolved so that the fish can survive in poorly-oxygenated water such as drying pools during the dry season.

The frequency of the surface gulps varies. It is important to learn to recognize the normal rate; when these noticeably increase it is a sign of trouble in the water. Oxygen deficiency, CO2 excess, nitrogenous compounds, toxins can all cause this.

I am not aware of this being a normal aspect for Bristlenose, so the fact that this was occurring, along with the increased rate for the cories and otos as mentioned in post #1, is cause for concern.

Byron.

 

[Tyler_Fishman]

Hmm I have two air stones on the tank. And an HOB filter, the tempature is a bit warm, I suppose my Betta should do fine at 75 degrees

 

[Tyler_Fishman]

Would 76-78 degrees be ok?

*update I've noticed a dramatic change in my fish, now the tank is about 78 or 79 degrees and my catfish are doing great! I even found the nerite snail that I lost for a few days behind my tank and it's fine, thanks!

 

[Byron]

Would 76-78 degrees be ok?

*update I've noticed a dramatic change in my fish, now the tank is about 78 or 79 degrees and my catfish are doing great! I even found the nerite snail that I lost for a few days behind my tank and it's fine, thanks!

Given the fish mentioned previously, I would get it down to 75F, 76F max. Let it lower naturally, by which I mean turn the heater down and let the water cool on its own, don't add cold water to lower it. Be vigilant with the heater setting, as many heaters (even very expensive good reliable ones) are not calibrated all that accurately. You don't want the temp suddenly plummeting overnight.

 

[Tyler_Fishman]

Yes I have an elite heater, I don't remember the wattage I'm not Sure how to calibrate them I just keep the elite Heater the lowest setting possible, I had two supplementary 10 watt heaters each which heated 3 gallons, to keep the tempature at a warm 82 degrees, I got rid of those and now my temp is about 77 degrees

 

[Byron]

Yes I have an elite heater, I don't remember the wattage I'm not Sure how to calibrate them I just keep the elite Heater the lowest setting possible, I had two supplementary 10 watt heaters each which heated 3 gallons, to keep the tempature at a warm 82 degrees, I got rid of those and now my temp is about 77 degrees

If the heater is on the lowest setting, and it is keeping the tank at "x" temp, then it won't likely go lower.

 

[Tyler_Fishman]

Yes I've found out that the heater is 100 watts, which is not very good, I'll have to invest in a new heater

 

[Byron]

Yes I've found out that the heater is 100 watts, which is not very good, I'll have to invest in a new heater

The wattage of the heater is not problematic. I won't even buy heaters less than 100 watts. I have had three heaters fail, all 50w heaters. My 100w, 150w, 200w and 250w heaters are still functioning after 20 years. My 10g tank has a 100w heater.

My last heater purchase was a Eheim Jager, two years ago. It is set at 72F which maintains a temperature of 76F. This is common with many heaters. Provided the temperature stays consistent with whatever setting, the heater should function properly. When the temperature is fluctuating the heater is likely not working properly, and should be replaced.

 

[Tyler_Fishman]

Hmm, I've thing I'm going to get the Tetra 2-10 gallon submersible Heater, I've seen many positive reviews on it, possibly the brand of Heater is just very powerful

 

[NickAu]

Be vigilant with the heater setting, as many heaters (even very expensive good reliable ones) are not calibrated all that accurately.

My Aquael heater shows 24 degrees on the dial when the water temp is 26