Common name/s: Asian arowana, Dragon fish
Scientific name: Scleropages formosus
Synonyms: Osteoglossum formosum
Family: Osteoglossidae
Origin: Native to Southeast Asia, black water rivers and streams in heavily forested areas.
Maximum size: 36" (90cm)
Care: Minimum tank size of 180 gallons (6'x2'x2') but like all other Arowana species, the bigger the better. The idea would be large aquariums with a lot of free areas to swim in. Water perameters should be of around pH 6.5 - 7.5, and a temperature of 24 to 30 centigrade (75-86f). As with all large predatory fish weekly water changes of 30 to 40% are recommended. This species is an excellent jumper so a secure top is necessary, larger specimens may even require the hoods to be weighed down. The bottom decoration is of less importance since this fish dwells in the upper water regions however they do act very uncomfortable in bare tanks. They might knock some of their decor around, but they act much calmer in a decorated tank. Feel free to add live plants into the tank, perferably to both ends. Most species of Arowanas, if not all, do not eat vegetation. Plants may be knocked loose from time to time, but this is however by accident rather than intentionally. Do avoid the use sharp objects since Arowanas are easily frightened and might hurt themselves. An adult Asian Arowana will require about 6 months to regenerate a dropped scale.
Lighting plays a larger role when keeping an Asian Arowana than it does with many other fish. Good lighting is required for the development of good coloration and sunlight is beneficial to this end. Compared to other Arowana species, Asian Arowanas are relatively non-aggressive towards fishes that are to big to be considered food, hence tank mates should be large and robust, too big to be eaten. Towards themselves, Asian Arowanas should be kept singly or in a group of more than five, of course here a mere 180g would not hold.
Feeding: High quality floating pelleted foods are often used to enhance coloration. Will usually accept dead meaty foods such as cockles, mussels, prawns, whitebait etc, or even floating pellets. Live fish, crickets or meal worms are particularly favored. "Gut loading" crickets with vegetables or fish flakes would provide additional nutrition to your Arowana.
NOTE: Per nmonks, live fish are not necessary and should only be used if they are "gut-loaded" and home bred. Fat- and thiaminase-laden species such as minnows and goldfish should not be used at all as there is now ample evidence that such fish lead to ill-health in the long term. For a fish that is hard to get and very expensive, there is no need to risk it's health with cheap feeder fish that they really don't need.
Sexing: Females tend to be chunkier, and have bigger pectorals, while the males has a larger jaw and head overall.
Breeding: A paternal mouthbrooder and has been breed in aquariums and then under highly monitored conditions. Asian Arowanas are usually breed in large outdoor ponds in Asia.
Comments: A relatively hard fish to obtain since trading is illegal unless the fish has been electronically tagged and certified, considering it is an endangered species. Asian Arowanas are highly prized for many reasons. They are considered as 'lucky' and even 'auspicious' by Asian culture and has been said to bring wealth and fortune to the owner. Asian Arowanas also come in different grades with some being more prized then others.
Green Arowanas which are dark green on the back, silvery or golden green on its sides, and silvery or whitish on its ventral surface, with dark greenish or bluish patches visible through the lateral scales. Both grey-tailed and yellow-tailed silver Asian Arowanas are dark grey on the back and silver on the sides, with dark ring patches on the lateral scales and a silvery or whitish belly. Red-tailed golden Arowanas have their scales are golden, and the anal and caudal fins are reddish-brown.
Mature red-tailed golden arowanas have brilliant metallic gold lateral scales, gill covers, bellies, and pectoral and pelvic fin membranes, although the back is dark. In juveniles the areas destined to develop golden colour start out metallic silver. The anal fin and the bottom portion of the caudal fin are light brown to dark red.
Mature gold crossback arowanas are distinguished from the red-tailed golden arowanas by having metallic gold crossing the back completely. This variety also lacks the reddish fins of the red-tailed golden.
In mature super red arowanas, the gill covers, lateral scales, and fin membranes of these fishes are metallic red, with the exact hue varying from gold-tinged to deep red. The back is dark brown. In juveniles, the darker the dorsal colouration, the deeper the red will be on maturity.
Asian Arowanas are hardy fishes and can live up to about twenty years when cared for. Often sold when around 10" or larger since younger juveniles tend to be raised in farms to be graded and tagged accordingly. Buying these fishes requires licenses and quite a bit of money too. Captive-bred specimens are available to the aquarium trade and must be microchipped and sold with an accompanying certificate verifying their captive-bred origins.
Note:
Scientific name: Scleropages formosus
Synonyms: Osteoglossum formosum
Family: Osteoglossidae
Origin: Native to Southeast Asia, black water rivers and streams in heavily forested areas.
Maximum size: 36" (90cm)
Care: Minimum tank size of 180 gallons (6'x2'x2') but like all other Arowana species, the bigger the better. The idea would be large aquariums with a lot of free areas to swim in. Water perameters should be of around pH 6.5 - 7.5, and a temperature of 24 to 30 centigrade (75-86f). As with all large predatory fish weekly water changes of 30 to 40% are recommended. This species is an excellent jumper so a secure top is necessary, larger specimens may even require the hoods to be weighed down. The bottom decoration is of less importance since this fish dwells in the upper water regions however they do act very uncomfortable in bare tanks. They might knock some of their decor around, but they act much calmer in a decorated tank. Feel free to add live plants into the tank, perferably to both ends. Most species of Arowanas, if not all, do not eat vegetation. Plants may be knocked loose from time to time, but this is however by accident rather than intentionally. Do avoid the use sharp objects since Arowanas are easily frightened and might hurt themselves. An adult Asian Arowana will require about 6 months to regenerate a dropped scale.
Lighting plays a larger role when keeping an Asian Arowana than it does with many other fish. Good lighting is required for the development of good coloration and sunlight is beneficial to this end. Compared to other Arowana species, Asian Arowanas are relatively non-aggressive towards fishes that are to big to be considered food, hence tank mates should be large and robust, too big to be eaten. Towards themselves, Asian Arowanas should be kept singly or in a group of more than five, of course here a mere 180g would not hold.
Feeding: High quality floating pelleted foods are often used to enhance coloration. Will usually accept dead meaty foods such as cockles, mussels, prawns, whitebait etc, or even floating pellets. Live fish, crickets or meal worms are particularly favored. "Gut loading" crickets with vegetables or fish flakes would provide additional nutrition to your Arowana.
NOTE: Per nmonks, live fish are not necessary and should only be used if they are "gut-loaded" and home bred. Fat- and thiaminase-laden species such as minnows and goldfish should not be used at all as there is now ample evidence that such fish lead to ill-health in the long term. For a fish that is hard to get and very expensive, there is no need to risk it's health with cheap feeder fish that they really don't need.
Sexing: Females tend to be chunkier, and have bigger pectorals, while the males has a larger jaw and head overall.
Breeding: A paternal mouthbrooder and has been breed in aquariums and then under highly monitored conditions. Asian Arowanas are usually breed in large outdoor ponds in Asia.
Comments: A relatively hard fish to obtain since trading is illegal unless the fish has been electronically tagged and certified, considering it is an endangered species. Asian Arowanas are highly prized for many reasons. They are considered as 'lucky' and even 'auspicious' by Asian culture and has been said to bring wealth and fortune to the owner. Asian Arowanas also come in different grades with some being more prized then others.
Green Arowanas which are dark green on the back, silvery or golden green on its sides, and silvery or whitish on its ventral surface, with dark greenish or bluish patches visible through the lateral scales. Both grey-tailed and yellow-tailed silver Asian Arowanas are dark grey on the back and silver on the sides, with dark ring patches on the lateral scales and a silvery or whitish belly. Red-tailed golden Arowanas have their scales are golden, and the anal and caudal fins are reddish-brown.
Mature red-tailed golden arowanas have brilliant metallic gold lateral scales, gill covers, bellies, and pectoral and pelvic fin membranes, although the back is dark. In juveniles the areas destined to develop golden colour start out metallic silver. The anal fin and the bottom portion of the caudal fin are light brown to dark red.
Mature gold crossback arowanas are distinguished from the red-tailed golden arowanas by having metallic gold crossing the back completely. This variety also lacks the reddish fins of the red-tailed golden.
In mature super red arowanas, the gill covers, lateral scales, and fin membranes of these fishes are metallic red, with the exact hue varying from gold-tinged to deep red. The back is dark brown. In juveniles, the darker the dorsal colouration, the deeper the red will be on maturity.
Asian Arowanas are hardy fishes and can live up to about twenty years when cared for. Often sold when around 10" or larger since younger juveniles tend to be raised in farms to be graded and tagged accordingly. Buying these fishes requires licenses and quite a bit of money too. Captive-bred specimens are available to the aquarium trade and must be microchipped and sold with an accompanying certificate verifying their captive-bred origins.
Note:
