Another dead Millennium feeling discouraged

FishForums.net Pet of the Month
šŸ¶ POTM Poll is Open! šŸ¦Ž Click here to Vote! šŸ°

Ozzie Boss

Fish Fanatic
Joined
Sep 28, 2018
Messages
83
Reaction score
5
Iā€™m sorry for posting again but I am having trouble keeping these rainbows alive. The first one most likely died to jumping but the second male didnā€™t. He lost a lot of his color and looked sickly. He was shimmying in place and was breathing rapidly he separated himself from the others. I knew that he wasnā€™t going to make it, so I shut the light off, and came back in an hour or so ,and sure enough he was dead. Iā€™m not sure what Iā€™m doing wrong. Iā€™ve done 25-50 percent water changes daily. I even did 2 water changes today. I have used seachem prime each time I change water. Iā€™ll post pictures and water perimeters tomorrow as it is late for myself.
 
Have you added salt to the tank?

You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 2 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate will affect some plants. The lower dose rate will not affect plants.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that.

----------------------------
It's possible the fish are still suffering from pH and GH shock after being put in the shop tank and then into your tank within 24 hours.

Check the GH and raise it up to 250-300ppm. The harder water helps reduce bacterial infections and the minerals help to bind to any poisons that might be in the water. Make sure the pH is above 7.0.

----------------------------
Generally when rainbowfish stop eating, go pale, do stringy white poop, and sit under the surface or near a filter outlet, and die a short time later, it is an internal bacterial infection like Tuberculosis (TB). However, I doubt this is the case with your fish.

Check the water and make sure it's all good and add salt.

Don't do too many water changes just now. If the water is good, don't do a water change for a week or two. This will give the fish time to adjust to the tank conditions.
 
I have but not as much. I only have a little bit left so I will be running to the store today.

Water perimeters
Ammonia 0.25ppm (Again take this with a grain of salt. I have had this always read 0.25 and never 0 even in my cycled 50 planted tank)
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 0ppm
PH: 7.6
Gh: 180ppm


~~~~~

One rainbow is starting to breathe rapidly and is now staying by the surface. These are the same symptoms as the last male. Losing its color and getting white patches on its body. I donā€™t know what to do anymore.

Here is a video on the fish.
 
bacterial or fungal infection in the gills and protozoan on the body.

load the tank up with salt. Go to a swimming pool shop or hardware and buy a bag of swimming pool salt or rock salt. Its about $5 for a 15-20kg bag.

Put 4 heaped tablespoons of salt in for every 20 litres of water and keep it there for at least 2 weeks. You can add more than 4 if it doesn't get better but try 4 heaped tablespoons first.
 
Okay will do. Hopefully I can save this one. He may be too far gone.
 

Most reactions

trending

Members online

Back
Top