Algae In New Tank, Anything Else I Can Do?

[stanleo]

I put this in my journal too but I would like to put here as well, maybe get a little help with this. 
 
Tank was fully cycled without the fish, been setup for over a month. I have 5 otos, one angel, 8 von rio tetras, 7 harlequins, 10 corys, one clown pleco. 
 
I got my micro ferts today and a CO2 indicator. I got Seachum Flourish and Seachum Flourish Trace. I have to dose these twice a week and the bottle says to do alternate days. So today, Saturday, I dosed the Flourish and on Monday I will do the Trace. I put the indicator in and am waiting because I did a 50% WC change right before I put it in and the instructions say I have to wait up to 60 min to get an accurate reading. It is AZOO CO2 Indicator. I am going to continue to dose the API LeafZone after every water change. I removed the carbon that I added to my filters to remove the medication.

The brown algae is horrible. I had to do a 50% WC and siphon as much as I could out. I have reduced the photoperiod to 8 hours with the CO2 adjusted the same. Hopefully that and the addition of the micros will help this issue. Beyond this I don't know what else to do. I know that brown algae and diatoms is common in new tanks but this seems excessive to me. I have before and after photos to document the growth rate. I am going to continue doing 50% WC every 5 days. Photoperiod was 10 hours. Lights are four 54W T5 HO, 1 10000K Daylight, 1 6500K Daylight, 1 actenic bulb, 1 coral plus bulb (light used to be for a SW tank) Last WC change I took out a 10000K bulb and put in the actenic to lesson the light.  

September 1 after the last 50% WC and siphoning as much algae as I could.



Today, September 6 before the 50% WC and siphon


After the 50% WC and siphon



If anyone has any other ideas that I could do please let me know.

 

 

[Byron]

I think we may have covered some of this in other threads, but will say it anyway as it is pertinent here.
 
I would remove the actinic tube, this is only going to encourage algae because it is light that plants are not very good at using, so for our purposes consider it "excess" and that means algae.  If memory serves me, you were going to remove two of the four tubes and use just two?
 
New set-ups are prone to algae issues because the biological conditions are fluctuating.  Once the aquarium is biologically established this should improve.  However, be aware that any and all fiddling during this period with lighting and fertilizers will keep the system unbalanced.  However, I would suggest a couple things immediately, and go from there.
 
First is to reduce the light to two tubes maximum, one the 6700K and the other whatever you like (except the actinic).  Second is to stabilize the fertilizers.  These have to balance the light.  I use the products mentioned, but I have never done so in a bright-light situation.  I would only dose once a week at first, the Flourish Comprehensive and the Flourish Trace, together after the water change, at the single dose indicated on the labels.  [I'm curious where you read alternate days...?]
 
And is CO2 diffusion intended or not?  This is very important in balancing this light and fertilizers.
 
Byron.

 

[stanleo]

Thanks for responding Byron. The reason for the actinic is that the light I have will not work if a bulb is missing. I put the actinic in there because I figured it wasn't going to do anything for the plants or the algae, guess I was wrong on that. Do you have any suggestions about how to lesson the light with the fixture have? I cannot afford a new light right now.
 
The bottle of Trace says to dose on alternate days when using Flourish in conjunction with Flourish Trace. I thought that was weird too. I will dose the Trace in the morning and only do these after a WC. Thanks for the tip.
 
I do have a CO2 injection system. I turn it on before the light comes on and turn it off when the light goes out.
 
Should I continue to dose the API LeafZone, or is the Flourish and Flourish Trace enough?

 

[KirkyArcher]

put a strip or strips of black electrical tape the full length of the unrequired tube to reduce the output of light!

 

[Byron]

There's a good idea.  Some sort of blocking the two tubes, leaving only two giving light.
 
On the Trace, I checked the label on my latest jug and it just says may be used alone or in conjunction with Flourish Comp.  I've used them together after the weekly water change for months now, and the plants are certainly thriving and I haven't any nuisance algae.  If I remember tomorrow, I will send an email to Seachem and ask about this.
 
Now with CO2 you may need to up the nutrients (fertilizers).  You've got to find that balance.  But given the problem algae, I would start with once weekly and give it a couple weeks to settle.
 
You could use the Leaf Zone to use it up; it is potassium and iron, so perhaps hold off on the Flourish Comprehensive and just use the Trace with the LZ.
 
Byron.

 

[stanleo]

Thanks guys. I will do all this straight away.

 

[stanleo]

I put the tape on the actinic and the coral life bulbs and it works perfectly. I was worried about the heat but they are fine, been running for 7 hours with no issues. So now my light is a 6500k Daylight 54w t5 HO and a 10000k daylight 54w t5 HO running for 8 hours a day. 
 
I do CO2 injection and I am dosing Flourish and Flourish Trace after the water change. I am going to continue doing 50% WC very 5 days until the brown algae is not growing so fast and then I will change it to 25% once a week. 
 
I have a CO2 indicator and it says the CO2 is in the green. I bought a new Sera brand Nitrate test kit today. All the reviews I have seen say they are more accurate than the API ones. It says my Nitrates are 0 mg/l. 
 
Does this sound like a good plan? If it is, how long should I continue this before I try something else like upping the fertilizer dosing or changing the photoperiod?

 

[Byron]

Last question first: give things three weeks minimum after making substantial changes.  Most changes in lighting or nutrients do not affect plants rapidly, depending upon species, and you may see the results in two weeks but wait at least three.  Here you may need to reduce the light duration if algae is still problematic, and/or increase fertilization.
 
Water changes down the road should be more substantial in volume.  You are into the high-tech method here, and those folks tend to suggest 50% water changes every week.  I do this myself with my low-tech approach.  Water changes will not harm fish or plants, and they do help in algae control as you are refreshing the water.
 
BTW, I have emailed Seachem so will likely get a response in a couple days.
 
Byron.

 

[Byron]

I have received a response from Seachem to the question of dosing Flourish Comprehensive and Flourish Trace together (same day) or alternate days.  Here is their response verbatim:
 
It is possible that the member of the Tropical Fish Forum does have a bottle which recommends that Flourish Trace be used on alternate days to Flourish Comprehensive. However, this is not because using the two products on the same day will result in any detriment to your plants, but rather to ensure that your plants are receiving a steady supply of the trace nutrients provided by both Comprehensive and Trace, instead of a surplus of nutrients one day and a deficit the next.

If it is convenient for you to dose your plants with both Comprehensive and Trace on the same day and you have seen a good response from your plants, I would say that there is no need to alter your routine.
 
I used to do twice weekly doses of Flourish Comp, and sometimes got mixed up on days as you want to spread this out so there is not more macro nutrients entering the tank which certainly can cause algae [I've experienced this].  When I went down to once weekly with
Comp, I saw a decline in plant response and that was when I began using Flourish Trace and this improved.  Trace elements are less likely to cause algae, and some plants can take these up and store them.  I would also assume they can remain in the water column, though I've no evidence either way for this assumption.  Anyway, using both together has not harmed things for me, and algae has not taken advantage as it did with twice weekly doses of just the Comp, so for convenience I see nothing wrong with this.
 
Byron.

 

[stanleo]

Cool thanks so much. I'm going to dose both after water changes for three weeks and keep the light 8 hours for the next 3 weeks and see how that goes. Thanks again.

 

[stanleo]

It has been 3 days since I did my last 50% WC and I am not seeing any new growth of algae at all and my plants seem to still be thriving with healthy new leaves. I have even started my foreground planting project! Thank you so much!!!

 

[Byron]

It certainly is nice to hear of success after these issues.  B.

 

[squidsagirl420]

this thread has been SO helpful!
Byron, you are extremely helpful with plants.
and kirky, the tape!!! i have the same 50/50 bulb and have been trying to figure out what to do because i have to have it as well. my question though,
one half is 10000k the other is actinic as well. do i tape the entire second bulb? or just the actinic half? and how do i know which side is the actinic? lol. thanks guys!
(this is the same algae im suffering with) tank is also young. couple months