20 Gallon Tank Stocking Ideas

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Souperman

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Currently in my 20 gallon tank I have a electric blue ram, 6 neon tetras, and 3 salt and pepper corys. I was wondering if there where any more fish that would work good with my tank? The only other fish I am for sure getting is a oto when I have some algae growth and my tank is lightly planted.
 
Before getting a new species I would get some more salt & pepper cories (C. habrosus). Cories are shoaling fish and the three dwarf species, including C. habrosus, do better with more than 6. If you want to leave room for a shoal of otos, there won't be room for another species, so I would get a few more neons.

So 6 or 7 more cories of the same species as you already have, a few more neons, then the otos when the tank is ready for them.




Personally, I would not bother with otos. You won't see much of them.
Provided your water is soft - because the fish you mention are all soft water fish - I would get something other than otos. For example, a shoal of ember tetras or Microdevario kubotai (which look greener in a tank than in photos).
 
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Thanks for the response. This was my original plan but when I got the corys into the tank they seemed to be schooling and acting normal just with three so I thought it would be okay to just leave them at that number.

Also for what you suggested instead of the otos how would gold ring danios do? I have had someone else suggest them but I have never heard of them before.
 
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Thanks for the response. This was my original plan but when I got the corys into the tank they seemed to be schooling and acting normal just with three so I thought it would be okay to just leave them at that number.

Also for what you suggested instead of the otos how would gold ring danios do? I have had someone else suggest them but I have never heard of them before.

Assuming gold ring danio is the species Brachydanio tinwini, [see http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/brachydanio-tinwini/ ] this wouldnot be a good match with sedate fish like rams and neons. Danio are active swimmers. And this means another issue, more space (length) than a 20g.

You really do need to increase the cories. Five at minimum, six or severn would be better for the fish. Space is limited but you could manage this number. I would get another three or four neon tetra too. Shoaling fish generally are always better with more of them. And "better" means they will be less stressed (something you often cannot see until it is too late), which means better long-term health.:fish:

Byron.
 
Thanks for the response. I was planning on getting a few more neons and at least one more Cory next time my local pet store has some in stock. I was just asking about the Danio because I had someone suggest it. I will defiantly not be getting it now that I know my tank is not adequate for it.

Along with 3-4 more neons and 1 more Cory is there anything else anyone would recommend to stock instead of the oto. Or would something like ember tetras be good which was suggested earlier in the thread.
 
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Thanks for the response. I was planning on getting a few more neons and at least one more Cory next time my local pet store has some in stock. I was just asking about the Danio because I had someone suggest it. I will defiantly not be getting it now that I know my tank is not adequate for it.

Along with 3-4 more neons and 1 more Cory is there anything else anyone would recommend to stock instead of the oto. Or would something like ember tetras be good which was suggested earlier in the thread.

You need more cories than four in total. And that caused me to check back, and it seems you have one of the "dwarf" species, Corydoras habrosus? If you do, you must have more than that, at absolute minimum 9 as essjay mentioned. However, if you actually mean the Peppered Cory, Corydoras paleatus, I would say minimum five, but six would be better. Cories are highly social fish, and there is an inherent "safety in numbers" as well. If you want them to be healthy and "happy," more is needed.

Assuming it is C. habrosus, and you 6-7 more, and with another 3-4 neons, a group of Ember Tetra would be fine. Here you want at least 8-9.

The importance of numbers with shoaling species cannot be overstated.

Byron.
 
Thanks for he response I have salt and pepper corys. Being this is my first time keeping tropical fish I never knew keeping bigger schools was so important. I will pick up some more neons as soon as I get the chance and I will keep checking in at my local pet store and pick up 2 more corys to make it 5 as soon as they get some in.

Also for my second school of fish would it be better to get a school of something or something that is good without a school like my electric blue ram? Or would it just be better to further increase my school of neons instead of adding another type of fish?
 
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I ended up getting 4 more neons to make the school 10 and 2 more corys to make the school five. The neons have been doing well but I lost one cory two days after I got it. When it died it was showing no sign of disease so I am guessing was beat up in shipping. I am planning on getting another cory to bring the number up to five again next time I make it to my local pet store. Still tempted to add something else to my tank since I still have a little more room. Was debating another schooling fish but I think that would make my tank seem to crowded. If anyone has any suggestions I would be happy to hear them.
 
I ended up getting 4 more neons to make the school 10 and 2 more corys to make the school five. The neons have been doing well but I lost one cory two days after I got it. When it died it was showing no sign of disease so I am guessing was beat up in shipping. I am planning on getting another cory to bring the number up to five again next time I make it to my local pet store. Still tempted to add something else to my tank since I still have a little more room. Was debating another schooling fish but I think that would make my tank seem to crowded. If anyone has any suggestions I would be happy to hear them.

Corydsoras habrosus is a delicate species, even more-so for a cory which are delicate to begin with. But you really need more than five, at least 9-9. The "dwarf" species will be under less stress permanently with more in the group. And something I didn't mention earlier, is temperature. These "dwarf" species do not like warm tanks, so a temperature around 75F/24C is max. Around 78F/26C would be too warm, just so you know.

Mention has also not been made of the other water parameters, meaning GH, KH and pH. I'd want to know these before suggesting more species, as you need smallish fish for a basic 20g and these can be more sensitive to water parameters.
 
Thanks wish I would of known this earlier when I did my research. With the ram I am running the tank at 80 degrees currently. Can I bring this down a little? Is there a mid point I can run temperature wise where both the ram and the corys will be happy or is it one or the other?
Also doing research I am pretty sure I have corydoras paleatus instead of hasbrosus if that changes anything.
 
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Thanks wish I would of known this earlier when I did my research. With the ram I am running the tank at 80 degrees currently. Can I bring this down a little? Is there a mid point I can run temperature wise where both the ram and the corys will be happy or is it one or the other?
Also doing research I am pretty sure I have corydoras paleatus instead of hasbrosus if that changes anything.


This illustrates why we advise research before acquisition. I spotted this earlier, but always seem to be the bearer of bad news and sometimes I overlook things, though one should not do that for the sake of the fish.

For the benefit of those following this thread I'll continue with C. habrosus for a moment...both Seriously Fish and Planet Catfish give 26C/78.8F as the max upper limit to the temperature range for Corydoras habrosus. The max temps mean the species should manage temporarily at those extremes, not that they should be permanently maintained at them.

Corydoras paleatus is more likely, as C. habrosus is very rare. Temperature range for C. paleatus is even lower, with 77F/25C as the upper limit.

No, there is no mid point in such situations, I will briefly explain why. Fish are ectothermic, meaning their internal physiology and metabolism is driven by the temperature of their aquatic environment since they cannot generate heat themselves. Evolution has programmed into the fish's DNA how it is to function, and to function at its best it must have the requirements it needs. Specific water parameters (GH, pH, temperature) are critical to these processes. There are other factors too that affect the fish's homeostasis.

Neon tetra also need cooler temperatures, their range is roughly that of C.paleatus. For both fish I would say 75-76F or 24C is about right, no warmer.

Balloon rams are weakened fish to begin with, by virtue of the "balloon" issue. Please do not support this by buying them. The forced deformation causes problems for the fish physiologically, and they are weaker and more susceptible to health problems, and always have a shorter than normal lifespan.

Byron.
 
Thanks for the response. I did my research beforehand I only researched corys in general though and not specific species that is where I messed up. The ram I have is also a normal ram as a I agree with you on the ballon fish issue. They don't look that good in my opinion either.
 
After I got off of work I did some research on the type of corys I have temperature guidelines and I really did not come up with anything specific. I found pretty much what you said, that most people keep this cory mid to low 70's. However I did find that people have had luck keeping this fish at 80 degrees but that 85 degrees was there breaking point. Currently my corys seem to be doing fine and are currently very active after their recent water change. I am going to leave my tank at 80 degrees and keep a close eye on the corys to make sure they are doing okay at my tanks currently temp. If I notice any changes in my corys health I will move them to a colder tank.
 
After I got off of work I did some research on the type of corys I have temperature guidelines and I really did not come up with anything specific. I found pretty much what you said, that most people keep this cory mid to low 70's. However I did find that people have had luck keeping this fish at 80 degrees but that 85 degrees was there breaking point. Currently my corys seem to be doing fine and are currently very active after their recent water change. I am going to leave my tank at 80 degrees and keep a close eye on the corys to make sure they are doing okay at my tanks currently temp. If I notice any changes in my corys health I will move them to a colder tank.

I won't argue with someone whose mind is made up, but others read these threads and can get the wrong advice/idea if misconceptions are not pointed out. Your last sentence is a serious risk; read Nathan Hill's comment in my signature block. And Paul Loiselle's is also applicable.

By the time you notice any changes in the health of the cories it will be too late, the internal damage will have occurred. You usually won't see any signs anyway, until the fish just dies. You cannot alter the physiology of a fish, and it is usually cruel to the fish to try.

As for these ridiculous sites claiming the fish will live healthily at 80+ degrees...that is like diagnosing your own ill health. Planet Catfish and Seriously Fish are owned by highly-experienced biologists, and many of the members are similar. Advice from such people is not to be dismissed, because it is as accurate as you will find.

Byron.
 
Thanks for the response. Using seriously fish I am seeing that my blue ram can be kept down to 72 degrees unless I am using the wrong scientific name and for the cory it says to keep them between 72 and 78 degrees. So does this open up a opportunity for me to lower my water temp to be in a more decent range for both species?
 

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