15 replies to this topic

[Lady J]

My tank has been cycling for 3-1/2 weeks. Ammonia levels were low so I just added some more and the nitrites are high (5.0) so, yay, it's cycling. The pH was fine at 7.8. But, the KH is in the 6-7 range (I'm trying to determine how yellow the water should turn when adding the drops to the 5 ml. of water). Pale yellow it's at 6; brighter yellow it's at 7. So, either I get the KH up some or change what I want in the tank. Input would be greatly appreciated.

[Lady J]

Ok, I just checked the requirements of the fish I want and it sounds like my parameters are in a healthy range. I am getting a betta, rasboras, and corys. IDK though, the KH seems on the low side. What do you think?

[crazyforcordoras]

Kh is fine, its the Ph. For your fish you want it in th 6.5 to 7.0 range. Try Acid Buffer from Sea Chem, it works great. I used it when i had the South American biotope, it was awesome.

[Lady J]

That sounds like a good idea. Or, how about this: my plan is a 4 gallon weekly water change. If I use 2 gallons of distilled and 2 gallons of tap, I believe it would drop the ph to the desired range. What ya think?

[crazyforcordoras]

It might work, but i would get the Acid Buffer just in case.

[Lady J]

Sounds good. Question: will the acid buffer keep the pH at the desired level or will it start to climb between water changes? I'm hoping it won't start to climb again because then the pH is constantly fluctuating.

[crazyforcordoras]

It shouldnt. I do weekly tests anyways, that way if anything happens i can notice it quickly. That way if the ph starts to change, you can catch it and add more buffer. Or, you could get Proper PH 7.0. It helps keep it at 7.0. As long as the ph stays between 6.5 and 7.0, your fish will be fine.

[Lady J]

Geez, I HATE additives but it may become necessary. I guess I also could add peat moss under the sand but ugh, that means tearing everything apart.

[crazyforcordoras]

You could put peat in the filter, but peat would make the water a brown color.


I know what you mean about additives, i only use them when needed, witch is when i dose tgings in my reef.

[Lady J]

I read an interesting article regarding pH and ammonia. The author stated the pH will be higher in a tank which has ammonia. In order to get an accurate reading of the pH in tap water, one should put some water in a bucket with aeration. The water should be tested after 24 hours and then again after 48 hours. The reading after 48 hours is the accurate pH level. Yesterday I added more ammonia to my tank as it is still cycling---ammonia and nitrites are obviously still present. After the cycle is complete and no ammonia is present the pH should definitely drop and the water will give an accurate reading. The author also explained that the best way to do a water change is to aerate the new water for 2 days prior to the change. By doing this the pH and KH should remain stable. In addition to testing the pH a person should also test the KH (the higher the alkalinity, the lower the KH) and see if the two balance out into a desirable range.

One major point the author discussed was the danger of pH swings. He said that if the pH is a bit higher than the desirable range, most fish will adapt with very few problems. This is not true of all fish, say discus for example, but for most fish. He said it is much better to keep the pH stable versus constantly working to bring it up or bring it down. The continual fluctuations are what stress and often kill fish. Now, if you have an accurate reading of your pH and it is too low, you can do something like adding baked, baking soda which will raise the pH. If the pH is too high you can add peat moss, driftwood etc. to drop the pH.

I am going to do what this author suggested and put some tap water in a bucket and aerate it for two days. I am then going to compare the reading in both the tank and the bucket and note the differences. I am hoping that my pH is lower and in the desired range for the fish I want to keep.

[Alm0stAwesome]

None of the fish you are planning on stocking are particularly sensitive and your pH is fine for them. It is not typically advised to try and change your pH as most fish can adapt,within reason The thing they do not cope well with is swings in pH which is what you risk by using additives to adjust the pH. That's my two cents anyway!

[Lady J]

Aaahhh, never underestimate your 2 cents! I so much agree with you and now am very curious to see what my real pH is in the tap water. Today I'm going to test the tank's pH, tomorrow I'm going to test the bucket's, and the day after I'm going to test the bucket's again and see where it's at. I might also test the tank's ammonia and pH/KH and compare those levels with the the bucket's. You know what, I hated chemistry in high school but I feel I really need to understand this. Side note: my 16 yr. old son is going into Chem. 3 and Calc. 3 this year and loves it. UGH I've laughingly told him he has a warped mind!

almOstawesome, is your avatar picture your betta? My goodness that is absolutely, unequivocally one of the most beautiful fish I've ever seen, freshwater or salt.

[Alm0stAwesome]

Lol you trust me far too much

Hey, you may as well do your research so you know where you stand, besides it's not like your going to stop thinking about it until you do


Yep that's my boy, Zod Thank you very much! He's got a great personality too


Smiley overload!!!!

[Lady J]

You know me to well almostawesome! I'll beat this to death until I completely understand it---can't help it, maybe I'm just obsessed.

Could you please help me with something? I just posted "Wow Input Please" regarding my parameters. Would you take a peek and tell me what you think?

PS: Zod? Love it!!!!!!

[Alm0stAwesome]

I think we're ALL obsessed hehe
I'll have a look now

[Lady J]

Thank you from one sick and obsessed mind to another.