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Rubber Lip Pleco?


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#1 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 01:50 AM

So, I bought a rubber lip pleco from pet smart this afternoon and I've been researching how to feed them, and such.
I've read they can be bullies. I've read that they are hard to feed. I would like some info on how to feed them, when to feed them, if they are compatible with serpae tetras, neon tetras, and corydoras catfish.

I just don't want it to die or get hurt or hurt or kill any of my other fish!

#2 xingumike

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 08:36 AM

I have never seen aggression issues with the 2 species I have kept but they are not a regular community pleco imo.

Your research should have told you about the differing temperatures these fish like, what is your tank at?

#3 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 03:51 PM

My tank is set at 72 degrees farenheit, I realize thats probably to low for the fish in my aquarium, should I slowly adjust the temperature like 1 add 1 degrees, wait an hour and so on?

#4 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 04:38 PM

I just set it up to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

#5 xingumike

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 05:20 PM

Why raise it?

Chaetostoma like it cold, around the 69-73 F range if I remember correctly.

Also like fast flowing water that is highly oxygenated.

For researching plecos (which is advisable before you buy the fish by the way) use planetcatfish.com, head for the common name section if you are not sure of the scientific names.

#6 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 05:43 PM

Well, I raised it because I saw a bunch of websites that claim it is a higher temperature.
http://www.aquaticco...ubberlipped.php
http://www.petsmart....oductId=3954162
http://www.petfish.net/kb/entry/227/

#7 xingumike

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 05:46 PM

75 should be ok but I wouldn't raise it anymore especially if the existing fish were used to it anyway.

Do you have a picture of it so I can see which species it is?

None of those websites you list are anywhere near as good a resource as the one I mentioned for future reference.

#8 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 06:02 PM

Ok, I'll try the website you mentioned if I ever get another catfish I'm not sure about.

Well, Petsmart said it was a Rubber Lip/ Bulldog pleco. I can't find him right now, he was out earlier sucking on one of my rocks, I'll try to get a picture when the lights go out at 8:30 pm.

#9 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 06:27 PM

Well I just went by the tank and saw him again. I took some pics but it said that they are too big to upload...

#10 xingumike

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 06:53 PM

make them smaller then :)

Use Paint or Microsoft picture editor.

Alternatively host them at somewhere like photobucket

#11 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 07:10 PM

Here it is! It might be a little too small. :/

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#12 wet44

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 07:17 PM

This one might be a little better quality.

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#13 wet44

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 02:25 AM

And again, what and how should I feed the little guy? I try giving him algae wafers but the corys come and eat it. He also will just suck on the glass which really doesn't have much algae on it. He'll also suck on a rock or some wood I have in there. They have a little algae on it. Should I buy one of those vegetable clips and put a little zucchini or cucumber on it?

#14 thereverendturtle

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 04:43 AM

Put an algae wafer in an hour or so after lights out. A veggie clip with zucchini or romain lettuce, will also help.

#15 xingumike

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 05:46 AM

Pictures too small to tell.

Is the pattern stripes or spots?

These are the most commonly imported Chaetostoma in the hobby.

Milesi - http://www.planetcat...?species_id=308

444 - http://www.planetcat...?species_id=318

Both are omnivores, pellets/wafers after lights out as mentioned above and yes fresh vegetable as well.

If it is anything like the 2 I kept (i had both these species) it will search out the area of highest flow in the tank and just sit there.

#16 wet44

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 02:38 PM

I think he is stripes. But he might not be old enough to actually see what they are.

#17 Seed_Lord

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 02:54 PM

Only fish i ever had a problem with keeping them with was discus, because they'd attach themselves to their body, so should be fine with anything that hasnt got a broad body like cories tetras etc

#18 N0body Of The Goat

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 03:43 PM

As xingumike has already written, most Chaetostoma species (of which there are 30+) need sub-tropical temperatures in the 68-72F ballpark with a realtively massive current compared to most fish, so that the levels of oxygen are high enough for their specialised needs like "hillstream loaches."
Even planetcatfish does not list every known species to date, but it it is an excellent starting point, http://www.planetcat...php?genus_id=26.

The first few weeks of settling into you tank setup are critical for these fish, they can be a nightmare to get eating, so putting your "Rubbernose" in its own quarantine tank is verging on vital.
"I wish I could take credit for this, but my hat is off to Norbert Flaugger of Casa Maria, Venezuela who, in conversation with Shane Linder passed on this method that works wonders for raising tough fry and acclimatizing picky loricariids.



  • Grind your favourite fish food to bits. You can add any kind of fish food and even ground, dried vegetables.
  • Separate an egg white from the yolk.
  • Mix the egg white and fish food.
  • Paint the resulting mixture on a flat rock or driftwood.
  • Let it dry rock hard.
Place it in the tank. The dry egg white will only dissolve very slowly in water. Your happy loricariids will eat away since this mimics their "natural" foods. Fry also benefit from the protein in the egg white." (taken from http://www.planetcat...?article_id=294)




#19 wet44

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 04:13 PM

Could I do this, but not use a quarantine tank? Because I don't really have a quarantine tank or have room for one.

#20 N0body Of The Goat

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 04:42 PM

These catfish tend to be incredibly weak, due to how they are caught and shipped to the LFSs, who then usually underfeed their tanks. If you can get them eating and putting on weight with a good diet, they become "hard as nails", for example Tizer has three Chaetostoma milesi doing very well in a community tank. I bought a L444 this time last year and sadly saw it pass away several weeks later, almost certainly through starvation as I never saw it eat in a community tank (but then I could say the same about some of my Synodontis who are still healthy over a year on).

By all means, try the "rock painting" technique in your community tank, placing newly painted rock(s) in the same location as and when the old one is cleaned off. Placing the rock(s) in a relatively quiet are of the tank seems to help, away from the turbulent current.

What powerheads and filters are you using to create a heavily rippled water surface? You ought to be looking at 8x true water (eg. 2000lph in a 240l) turnover at least, if not more in the ballpark of 12x.




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